Eibach sway bar adjustment

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Old 01-10-2012 | 07:17 PM
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Eibach sway bar adjustment

Can't seem to find a thread that goes into user feedback of the different settings on this bar.

My application is a g37s sedan fully stock. What did folks use as a baseline adjustment? What did you ultimately settle on and why? How did this affect the drivability in the rain?

I'm guessing a starting point will probably be the soft setting in the front and middle setting in the rear, but would like some more feedback.
Old 01-10-2012 | 08:06 PM
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There's 2 adjustments in front..and 3 in the rear. Most people put it smack dab in the middle for daily driving, and if you want to corrent over/understear, will go harder from there for track use.

Last edited by 1cleanG; 01-11-2012 at 04:30 PM.
Old 01-10-2012 | 08:58 PM
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You mean 2 in the front, 3 in the rear..

http://performance-suspension.eibach...g35g37_ark.pdf
Old 01-11-2012 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 1cleanG
There's 2 adjustments in front..and 3 in the rear. Most people put it smack dab in the middle for daily driving, and if you want to corrent over/understear, will go harder from there for track use.
If you have springs like Eibach or stiffer, NEVER go to 3.
Unless you want to drift!
Old 01-11-2012 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TVPostSound
If you have springs like Eibach or stiffer, NEVER go to 3.
Unless you want to drift!
why/how does it happen?
Old 01-11-2012 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 1cleanG
There's 2 adjustments in front..and 3 in the rear. Most people put it smack dab in the middle for daily driving, and if you want to corrent over/understear, will go harder from there for track use.
I knew I should of quoted

i see you made some corrections this afternoon. So agreed, middle on the rear, but what about the front. Most likely soft for daily driving?
Old 01-11-2012 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jujubii
why/how does it happen?
The stiffer the spring, the less sway bar you need.

Nascar boys will disconnect rear sway bars in the middle of a race if the car is too loose!!
Old 01-11-2012 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TVPostSound
The stiffer the spring, the less sway bar you need.

Nascar boys will disconnect rear sway bars in the middle of a race if the car is too loose!!
correct me if im wrong. kinda new to this...
eibach spring rate isnt considered very stiff. right? if that's true does it mean youd need more sway bar and thus lvl 3?
Old 08-20-2012 | 12:49 PM
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Just noticed the OP's sig line, so I'm bumping this old thread.

Jsolo, if you don't mind, could you discuss this mod a little more now that you've had it for over half a year? What was it like when you first swapped out the sways? No discernible difference? Nice-2-have difference? Or holysheet-why-doesn't-it-come-like-this-OEM kind of difference?

Are there any ramps or roads that you're familiar with where the handling characteristics of the car were noticeably changed?

Last edited by Rochester; 08-20-2012 at 01:00 PM.
Old 08-20-2012 | 01:09 PM
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I got around to installing the bars sometime in early march. At install time, I left the front on the soft setting (closest hole to end IIRC), and rear in the middle. Corners are few and far between here in chicago, mainly just on/off ramps. Ride comfort and compliance was important. Roads are not the best out here. Since then, I haven't touched the settings as they seem just fine for daily driving and the occasional ramps.

With the above settings, there is a small amount of body roll until the car settles into the corner, then it stays quite flat. I would say this amount is less than with stock. With the stock bars, the car seemed more loose, floppy, had more understeer.

In normal driving, for me, the difference was barely noticeable. It's when hitting the curves (as expected) that the bars make their presence known. Some say the differences are more so. I really haven't had the motivation to play with stiffer settings. Chicago is known to get a fair amount of snow in the winter, and stiffer settings would not helpful under such conditions.

I think more drastic handling changes would be achieved by lowering the car and going with with 19" tires. If/when I do that, it'll be done correctly, with coilovers, possibly camber arms, etc. It's an expensive experiment. For the few times I drive on really challenging roads, I can't justify justify spending all that money. I'm not enough of an enthusiast to justify all this just for cosmetic reasons

If I lived down south or in CA, the decision would be easier...
Old 08-20-2012 | 01:22 PM
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Good post, Jsolo. So to paraphrase: the only change you've observed is less body roll on aggressive curves. Is that about right? You're flat on the ramps now?

And as an FYI, from what I've read, if you lower the car, you're going to eventually need stronger end-links matched with those new swaybars.

So you're driving your 6MT in the winter, and this is your first winter coming up, is that right? If so, I'm in the same situation, and am planning on a set of Blizzaks for the season.
Old 08-20-2012 | 02:03 PM
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Effectively, yes.

Stronger endlinks too eh. I'll keep that in mind.

The upcoming winter will actually be the 2nd one. Last winter wasn't really much of a winter though. It was relatively warm, and snow tires stayed on for only a month. I got the michelin xice2 in 225/50/18 size. Blizzaks (ws70) might be better for actual snowy conditions, but the xice2 has stiffer sidewalls so handling is better in non snowy conditions. Fresh snow not a problem, deep snow and ruts was. Likely a combination of tire width and low vehicle height (I think the lowest point, the exhaust is only ~5" off the ground). If I could do it over, I'd see about getting a 215/55 maybe on a 18" 7.5" wheel. Albeit there'd likely be issues clearing the bbk brakes.

Overall, driven with common sense, winter driving should not be a problem, 6mt, rwd, or not. I came from driving a camaro z28 6spd for the past 15 winters, so quite used to rwd and snow. Traction control was something new. The right foot was the traction control in the z28.
Old 09-11-2012 | 03:35 PM
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OK, I have these, not installed. To answer and confirm HALF of your answer, you put your setting for the Rear (With 3 holes) smack dab in the MIDDLE! 90% of the folks on here do the middle.
Front, I don't know (don't feel like searching) someone chime in on the front please.

Also the front that has 2 positions exactly which one do you use for position 1?????? I rear difrectrions and it says Position 1 is the lowest setting (most similar to match the center setting), BUT, it never clearly states which of the 2 holes is Position 1 and which one is 2?

Is Position #1 closest to the OUTSIDE of the Bar, or the hole closes to the actual Bar?
Old 09-11-2012 | 03:58 PM
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Not too sure about Position 1 and Position 2, but the hole closer to the center of the bar would be the stiffer setting. Most have their front set to the holes closer to the end of the bar, and the rear set to middle.
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