Originally Posted by frty9rsfn

I have nothing to lose and will try one of these places out... will call tomorrow... should i be hitting btw??? money is not an issue, just wanna get this done right.

I know that AMPLIFIED have def worked with G's, and wanted to find out if the kit was installed correctly... yup, ur right, it is all computer based...

Which of these two shops is better btw???

Originally Posted by JEBperformance

IMO our car has very light steering. With Negative caster the steering will be even lighter which in turn loose directional stability.

If you like the car as it is right now. I say just keep em the way it has been. Because when you mess with caster, you will also have to mess with camber. And later alignment as well.

But if you want stiffer steering and better directional stability. I say instead of caster change. Consider GTSPEC FSTB. For the fraction of cost to mess with your alignment.

Originally Posted by redrover23

Thanks for the reply. I want to go from 26 7/8" floor to front fender apex to 26 1/2". I was wondering what my caster setting should be, my current alignment specs are:

Camber: -0.7(L), -0.8(R)
Caster: 4.9(L), 5.2(R)

I guess my question is: should I keep caster at 0 while dropping the front 3/8"? I don't wanna have the issues the OP is having (hitting) and want my alignment to support long tire life and performance. Hopefully any response will help the OP make a decision

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by JEBperformance

Make sure you call them tomorrow. They are both good. You will have to set up an appointment first. They are always fully booked, so go to either who can take you in sooner.

Originally Posted by JEBperformance

you guys are way ahead........

caster issue is just educated guess. until a proper mechanic gets feed back from the driver, visually inspects, and than ID's the source of problem. And proves by fixing the source resolves the issue. We are not able to conclude on anything.

My best advise is to goto proper shop. Whom with vast knowledge and experience. To start with. So we don't run into problem later.

My fender is 26" off the ground, and no issues. Evasive Motorsports did mine.

Originally Posted by frty9rsfn

here are pics... just for fun...This is with the SPC arms installed before my alignment...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...rsfn/G37-2.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...rsfn/G37-1.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...rsfn/G37-4.jpg

Originally Posted by blnewt

Perfect drop, looks great. Sure hope you're able to get your camber arm issue(s) fixed. BTW, my G is a sedan so the measurements I gave you won't really cross over to the Coupe I think

Originally Posted by blnewt

25.6" to fender lip
-1.3 camber
No problem w/ arm hitting fender, hit a big road dip w/ right tire and felt like I hit the bump stops , but not a metal on metal sound. Felt under the fender for any signs of contact and felt none.
B&G S2 Springs (for 07-08 G35, drops a 1/2" more on 37s)

Originally Posted by frty9rsfn

the contact is not going to be to the actual fender. its going to be before the fender... so u will have to lift the car and take a look at the top behind the wheel... hard to reach the area with ur hand... i dont think u can reach th area with just ur hand... take another look just to be safe...

Originally Posted by frty9rsfn

why is pcasey not having this issue if he is even lower than some of us??? dont understand... i mean, im glad that he isnt, dont get me wrong, but this is really pissing me off!! i had -2.0 camber and running -1.5 or -1.8 isnt so far off, might as well not have bought the fronts...

Originally Posted by JEBperformance

My customer SPC's and lowered on KW V-3

26.25" from ground to fender
-1.5 SPC camber

Well good news is that Adjustable Ball Joint is strong enough for all the banging. However inner rubber bushings are not. I have taken several pictures to show you that inner rubber bushings (SPC Part # 60009414) joints will fail if constant tracking, pot holes, and banging were on going for three years. Pictures of result below.









I WOULD LIKE TO ADD. THIS IS NOT IN FAULT OF SPC. SPC MAKES HEAVY DUTY PARTS FOR ALL VEHICLE APPLICATION. HOWEVER DUE IN PART OUR CARS ARE LOWERED. PLUS FENDER NOT BEING DESIGNED FOR NEW HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS. PRODUCE RESULTS LIKE THE ABOVE.

IMO FACT THAT OUTER ADJUSTABLE BALL JOINTS WHICH IS FIRST IN LINE TO GET MOST OF THE IMPACT. TO HAVE BEEN INTACT. WHICH IF UPON FAILURE OR UPON BECOMING LOOSE. WILL PRODUCE VERY VERY SERIOUS ACCIDENT. INNER RUBBER JOINTS EVEN WITH FAILURE, WILL NOT BE MAJOR SAFETY ISSUES. NOT THAT I RECOMMEND DRIVING WITH BROKEN INNER JOINTS. FOR THIS AND MANY OTHER REASONS I GIVE +100 TO SPC.

IN COSMETICS - PERFORMANCE. THERE ARE CONSEQUENCES. JUST LIKE PLASTIC SURGERY SOME OF US UNDER GO.

Originally Posted by JEBperformance

Either +1 positive or -1 negative will tilt the Steering knuckle slightly. Giving more clearance.

Make sure to ask your current caster setting. Before doing any changes.

I strongly advise following performance shops.

Evasive Motorsports
or
Westend Alignment

Tell them JEB sent you, for further discount. I would not trust any other shops around Southern California.

Once we lower our cars. OEM setting which are per-programmed into alignment software does not work. So Data and Spec are crucial. These data are only kept @ Shops which specializes in dropped vehicles.

Alignment shops vast majority does not have understanding even on how suspension works. Mechanics are robots who perform whatever computer tells them to.

FYI Amplified does not perform alignment. Performing Installation VS Proper Setup and alignment should not mix.

Originally Posted by frty9rsfn

Alright, it appeared and felt as if i had the front camber kit installed incorrectly so I took my car to LOU from AMPLIFIED MOTORSPORT and got it on the lift. He said that it was all done CORRECTLY!!! (he knows the G well, inside and out)

Back to SPC, whenever there is a big bump, the arm hits the bottom of the fender. Im 26 inches from the ground to fender as well. So i am thinking in getting some negative camber back in so that i can help with some clearance. Will try going from -0.5 to -1.2 on the fronts to help and allow for clearance.

Called Eibach and they said it was the correct kit. Eibach and SPC as we all know, is the same kit.

I have PM some SPC kit owners and they too have this issue as well. ISSUE WITH THE FRONT AND REVISED KIT...

So we can maybe use this thread to help those, like myself, get through this issue by mentioning the following....

1. how low you are from the ground to the fender
2. what degree of camber you are currently on
3. does #1 and #2 allow for enough clearance so that the camber arm does not hit the fender.
4. What suspension are u on (might help as well)

This can help those make adjustment for the most camber near specs at a specific height without striking the fender. I couldnt find anything that specific to help get as most camber to spec as possible without hitting the fender. I will start doing little changes to the camber then height changes to eventually get enough clearance.

Hope we get something started that is exremely important for our G's. Ill start.......

1. raised to 26 inches from the ground to fender
2. alignment brought me to -0.6 degree for camber
3. at these specs, im still hitting the fender
4. on tein flex

I hope all SPC owners shine in and give their input!!!

frty9rsfn
German