kaoticdemize

iTrader: (2)

Went to the track, overheated my brakes (really badly, thought they were on fire lol) my question is what would be the easiest way to keep them cooled? Could I take out the fog lights and install ducts there to the brakes?

Weiboy718

iTrader: (10)

steal them AP Racing BBK kit that's in your job's showroom

Itchytoe

You can't really cool them anymore than you already are. Your only option is to just get better brakes. Any of the BBKs will help. Bigger heatsinks, more air flow...

kaoticdemize

iTrader: (2)

Haha they aren't there anymore, we sold them a while back.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Kao, I think if you're running your brakes hard enough to set 'em on fire, perhaps you need a different compound pad (something track oriented which performs best at higher temps), and more durable rotors.

kaoticdemize

iTrader: (2)

I have hawk racing pads on, but I do need to upgrade the rotors, was just trying to see if anyone has done something to vent more air into the brakes. Although I think I have come to the knowledge that it is time to get a track car and turn my G37 into just a street car.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Kao, guys on the bike forums run into similar issue all the time. It hurts most when they ride their street bike to the track, crash, then end up having to either figure out how to get the bike back home, or worse yet, end up in the ER + a wrecked bike.

The price we pay for a speed fix!!!

kaoticdemize

iTrader: (2)

hahah yeah, good thing is since it's an hpde event my insurance would cover any damages

JEBperformance

iTrader: (9)

Which brake fluids are you using? Nissan brake fluids are not meant for racing. So I recommend RBF 600 better cooling up to 550 degree. In your case since they caught on fire RBF 660 better protection up to 660 degrees.
Bigger BBK means more friction, thus higher temperature.
Once again bigger is not always better.
Racing pads mean more friction, will be less prone for brake fading. But not fire proof.
Bingo Air duct is your best bet. Goto Allstar Performance - racing and high performance car parts, accessories and specialty tools. they got all the parts you need for air duct. Plus some competitive price too.

Or just do what I did on my car. Drill hole on both fog light and fender skirt. And connect using dryer ducts. Whole project cost me less than $10. This is not as efficient getting air flow directly to the middle of the rotor. But keeps ambient temperature down.
What you set your brakes on fire. On HPDE????? I don't know who's your instructor, but next time request another person.

FYI Not all insurance company will cover HPDE. Read your policy. Look for key word "on track surface", than you are not covered. "not timed, competition, or preparing for a race", HPDE is covered.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Just looked up what HPDE is..

At the bottom of - link are a bunch of articles.

Practically all of this information applies to bikes too - throttle control, braking, apex, slow in, fast out, braking while downshifting. Definitely a good read.

mw09g37

iTrader: (3)

the brakes can potentially if they get hot enough... though, I would bring it back to the turning technique... or upgrade the brakes...

I'm not sure if you guys watch or recall but if you remember the ceramic setup on the merc SLR on top gear ignited... everything has a flash point... that's why you can get like cross drilled and slotted rotors to reduce some of that friction stress and heat production. AP makes some good ones. I mean I think our brakes cook pretty well... I smell mine all the time during certain days.

i'm more surprised that your car didn't go limp cause of oil temperature first.

kaoticdemize

iTrader: (2)

JEB- I was not in A-class so no instructor, I was running Motul racing brake fluid. I will be doing the fog light duct thing, thank you for confirming that it does work And Geico covers HPDe events since it is not "competitive" The main reason for the overheating (imo) is at Thunderhill there are a ton of straights that go into hard corners, so coming off turn 8 and hitting 110 then slowing to 30 , then going through 9 and 10 hitting 100+ again and into another 30-40 turn I was motoring (for a car of this size, I have a sedan)

mw09g37- no limp mode as I put in a Moshimoto Engine oil cooler and transmission cooler I learned from Infineon about that haha