Help Stoptech Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors W/ Hawk HPS?
#1
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Stoptech Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors W/ Hawk HPS?
OK so it's been a couple of weeks now with my brake upgrades and here is what i am experiencing. First off they sure do their job and they sure look great, but what i'm getting really frustrated with is the noises/rusting issues i'm having. Not sure if it is normal and not sure how to describe the noise but at high speeds with my windows up and radio off as soon as i start to press pedal down i hear a clunking noise as if the pad is making noise due to the slots in rotors, i could be wrong and maby it's an install error but as easy as brakes are WTH could it be.? also just normal driving its noisy and kinda clunking around . it sounds like its only up front . also the infamous rust rings are starting to appear, i mean it does not bother me as much cause they still look sick but its kinda annoying to hear noises and look at my rotors now lol. has anyone eperienced any issues with Slotted rotors? or has anyone heard of such things? i first thought it was just break in period but the noise is there since day 1! once brakes are fully engaged the noises are gone , noises are worse if i slightly press pedal, it starts going clunk clunk clunk clunk lol.
HELP APPRECIATED THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!
HELP APPRECIATED THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!
#2
I dont have the product you are using but ill try to help, i would just double check your front brakes to make sure everything is installed properally and check to see if maybe anything is touching or rubbing its not supposed to.
And the rust ring if i plan on upgrading my rotors i was gonna paint the hub part with a high temp paint, that way it inhibits the rust. If you want you can pull your rotors off and clean them off
And the rust ring if i plan on upgrading my rotors i was gonna paint the hub part with a high temp paint, that way it inhibits the rust. If you want you can pull your rotors off and clean them off
#3
Back when I had my Acura, I upgraded to slotted rotors and aftermarket pads. I did notice that they had a very faint noise when lightly braking. Sold that car not long after, so I don't know what it was, but I attributed it to the slotted rotors. It was very faint though.
#6
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I dont have the product you are using but ill try to help, i would just double check your front brakes to make sure everything is installed properally and check to see if maybe anything is touching or rubbing its not supposed to.
And the rust ring if i plan on upgrading my rotors i was gonna paint the hub part with a high temp paint, that way it inhibits the rust. If you want you can pull your rotors off and clean them off
And the rust ring if i plan on upgrading my rotors i was gonna paint the hub part with a high temp paint, that way it inhibits the rust. If you want you can pull your rotors off and clean them off
Back when I had my Acura, I upgraded to slotted rotors and aftermarket pads. I did notice that they had a very faint noise when lightly braking. Sold that car not long after, so I don't know what it was, but I attributed it to the slotted rotors. It was very faint though.
so you don't have any other noises other then sqeaks?
#7
I just had these installed (drilled and slotted) with hawk ceramic pads. I do not really drive my car often but next time I get a chance I will take it out and listen for this. I did not notice anything so far though and have been listening quite closely to all the noises my car is making as well. I will keep you posted but please do the same.
Edit: also, did you notice immediately or did this happen over time?
Edit: also, did you notice immediately or did this happen over time?
Last edited by Chi-City-G; 09-28-2011 at 01:47 AM.
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#8
Two important steps many shops and some dealers to leave out when replacing rotors. Very easy to overlook, yet very important.
1. Disengage battery line before flushing brake fluids. Our brake line runs from master cylinder to ABS to brake calipers. If battery is not disengaged fluids inside the ABS will not be flushed. Later to produce air pockets and more problem.
2. After installation final step should be as following.
-With brake pedal fully depressed. Turn on the ignition.
-Five times depress pedal. With 5 seconds of interval.
-Fully depress brakes turn off ignition.
Above steps are very easy to overlook. But for me makes huge difference.
Symptoms for not following #1
-Brake pedal vibrations
-Brake fade
Symptoms for not following #2
-weak back pressure from brake pedal
-Brake fade after heavy braking
-Uneven pad wear due to uneven alignment of the pedals and brake pistons. Especially on 4 piston caliper.
1. Disengage battery line before flushing brake fluids. Our brake line runs from master cylinder to ABS to brake calipers. If battery is not disengaged fluids inside the ABS will not be flushed. Later to produce air pockets and more problem.
2. After installation final step should be as following.
-With brake pedal fully depressed. Turn on the ignition.
-Five times depress pedal. With 5 seconds of interval.
-Fully depress brakes turn off ignition.
Above steps are very easy to overlook. But for me makes huge difference.
Symptoms for not following #1
-Brake pedal vibrations
-Brake fade
Symptoms for not following #2
-weak back pressure from brake pedal
-Brake fade after heavy braking
-Uneven pad wear due to uneven alignment of the pedals and brake pistons. Especially on 4 piston caliper.
#9
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I really doubt they disconnected my battery to blead brakes!
But overall I would say I am experiencing some symptoms from #2 although I'm sure we did follow it , maby not exactly like stated but we certainly made sure we pressed pedal after install and even after brake flush they did as well. Something def wrong cause noises are there . now that I have a problem what's a good alternative? The uneven piston makes sense as to why maby I having those noises but not 100% maby o should have a brake shop take apart and check them out?
But overall I would say I am experiencing some symptoms from #2 although I'm sure we did follow it , maby not exactly like stated but we certainly made sure we pressed pedal after install and even after brake flush they did as well. Something def wrong cause noises are there . now that I have a problem what's a good alternative? The uneven piston makes sense as to why maby I having those noises but not 100% maby o should have a brake shop take apart and check them out?
#10
I really doubt they disconnected my battery to blead brakes!
But overall I would say I am experiencing some symptoms from #2 although I'm sure we did follow it , maby not exactly like stated but we certainly made sure we pressed pedal after install and even after brake flush they did as well. Something def wrong cause noises are there . now that I have a problem what's a good alternative? The uneven piston makes sense as to why maby I having those noises but not 100% maby o should have a brake shop take apart and check them out?
But overall I would say I am experiencing some symptoms from #2 although I'm sure we did follow it , maby not exactly like stated but we certainly made sure we pressed pedal after install and even after brake flush they did as well. Something def wrong cause noises are there . now that I have a problem what's a good alternative? The uneven piston makes sense as to why maby I having those noises but not 100% maby o should have a brake shop take apart and check them out?
#11
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Thanks for chiming in man also even of I didn't experience these noises b4 how could a new rotor start making noises. I mean as soon as i press pedal now it starts clunking around and I'm almost certain it's the front
#12
Most likely I am wrong but. Let me know if the scenario fits your installation.
Your G37 is 2008, and you replaced your rotors after 2-3 year. Now you live in MIAMI very close to the beach. The rotors get stuck when they rust. Most shops will hammer the rotors to get them out. But if that was the case, they might have damaged your connecting rods or wheel hub. And when you apply pressure to the brake the torque tweaks just enough to make clunking noise.
Infiniti few years ago did not have any of their model equipped with 4 piston calipers. So even the dealers when you take to service are not familiar with 4 piston brake system. So they will not follow all the instruction necessary to properly service your brake system.
I myself use clamps and bolts to push the rusted and stuck rotors. Wheel hub hearings are too expensive for me to risk damaging them.
Take your car to another shop and get their word. And than take to the service shop and demand repairs.
If my scenario fits.........
#13
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Makes perfect sense ! Thanks man I will have another shop look at the problem! Thanks again however I did install my self and we did bang the stock rotors out , they were a PITA to get out so we used several banging methods to get them out . Now here is another funny thing! Yesterday I jacked up my car and too k wheels off only up front . I torque down the front right and was on good now the front left even after torquing down I grabbed wheel amd there was still some play in it as if my lug nuts were not on tight enough. I took off wheels again and right was ok but left still after torquing down my lugs a second time there was still some play as if something was loose. I grabbed wheel and basically moved in and out and It feels loose! Very weird but now that u mentioned this I bet we banged the rotor so hard it may had done something to the hub! Could this be correct?
#14
Makes perfect sense ! Thanks man I will have another shop look at the problem! Thanks again however I did install my self and we did bang the stock rotors out , they were a PITA to get out so we used several banging methods to get them out . Now here is another funny thing! Yesterday I jacked up my car and too k wheels off only up front . I torque down the front right and was on good now the front left even after torquing down I grabbed wheel amd there was still some play in it as if my lug nuts were not on tight enough. I took off wheels again and right was ok but left still after torquing down my lugs a second time there was still some play as if something was loose. I grabbed wheel and basically moved in and out and It feels loose! Very weird but now that u mentioned this I bet we banged the rotor so hard it may had done something to the hub! Could this be correct?
All you need are some open end nuts and some washers. To tighten the studs.
Unless you have stuck directly on the wheel hubs. Most likely they are OK. So don't worry too much. But regards to the wheel play. Get them fixed ASAP. Very dangerous.
#15
IMO the clucking noise comes from the wheel play. Your rotors by themselves are not bolted in. When you tighten your wheels, rotors are only secure after putting your wheels on. When I first change my rotors @ 10K Miles. They came right off. My last rotor change @ 20K miles as you said PITA to come out.
Yeah I track my G37 and rotors are just like pads for me now. They are replacement parts. So I can not afford expensive drilled/slotted anymore.
Instead of hammering I did use nuts and bolts to push the rotors out against the caliper mounting brackets. This way I don't stress other crucial parts.
Good LUCK
Yeah I track my G37 and rotors are just like pads for me now. They are replacement parts. So I can not afford expensive drilled/slotted anymore.
Instead of hammering I did use nuts and bolts to push the rotors out against the caliper mounting brackets. This way I don't stress other crucial parts.
Good LUCK