Help Stoptech Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors W/ Hawk HPS?
09-28-2011, 03:13 AM
#16
Very very slight wheel play like u can barley here them move but it's not solid like the right side Wich I thought was odd, maby it's from hitting so many dam potholes idk. Anyway as of now I think I'm gonna take to a Brake shop to see what they say and go from there I really believe something is loose . Or maby pads are installed incorrect idk but it's something causing the clunk .
09-28-2011, 03:30 AM
#17
Regarding the rust.....
You should thank Stoptech. The only reason rust can be seen from out side is due to diamond cut on the drills. To prevent cracking around the drilled and slotted parts. Stoptech makes their rotors for racing application. IMO I rather show rust than cracks along the edges for the drilled holes and slots.
You should thank Stoptech. The only reason rust can be seen from out side is due to diamond cut on the drills. To prevent cracking around the drilled and slotted parts. Stoptech makes their rotors for racing application. IMO I rather show rust than cracks along the edges for the drilled holes and slots.
09-28-2011, 03:34 AM
#18
Very very slight wheel play like u can barley here them move but it's not solid like the right side Wich I thought was odd, maby it's from hitting so many dam potholes idk. Anyway as of now I think I'm gonna take to a Brake shop to see what they say and go from there I really believe something is loose . Or maby pads are installed incorrect idk but it's something causing the clunk .
09-28-2011, 07:41 AM
#19
IMO the clucking noise comes from the wheel play. Your rotors by themselves are not bolted in. When you tighten your wheels, rotors are only secure after putting your wheels on. When I first change my rotors @ 10K Miles. They came right off. My last rotor change @ 20K miles as you said PITA to come out.
Yeah I track my G37 and rotors are just like pads for me now. They are replacement parts. So I can not afford expensive drilled/slotted anymore.
Instead of hammering I did use nuts and bolts to push the rotors out against the caliper mounting brackets. This way I don't stress other crucial parts.
Good LUCK
Yeah I track my G37 and rotors are just like pads for me now. They are replacement parts. So I can not afford expensive drilled/slotted anymore.
Instead of hammering I did use nuts and bolts to push the rotors out against the caliper mounting brackets. This way I don't stress other crucial parts.
Good LUCK
09-28-2011, 07:45 AM
#20
Administrator
Great info in this thread thanks JEB
09-28-2011, 01:24 PM
#22
Blank Rotors from Stoptech. They cost hundreds less than drilled and or slotted.
anytime NP
Whenever you change rotors and or pads. Make sure to bed-in properly. Compared to single piston calipers. If rigorous routine is not followed. There is many that can go wrong especially 4 piston caliper system. And as we all know new calipers can cost $$$'s out your pocket.
Coming soon for those who track your G37. Front brake air duct. My project will consist of couple of trips to Home Depot. So nothing fancy. Inexpensive project for our G37.
Our car G37 +3K lbs. Is a very heavy car. And lot of energy goes to calipers and rotors, in order to stop. So extra cooling is a must if you track your G.
anytime NP
Coming soon for those who track your G37. Front brake air duct. My project will consist of couple of trips to Home Depot. So nothing fancy. Inexpensive project for our G37.
Our car G37 +3K lbs. Is a very heavy car. And lot of energy goes to calipers and rotors, in order to stop. So extra cooling is a must if you track your G.
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