you shouldnt have had to disconnect the brake line from the caliper just to change pads and rotors.

 

it's a hard brake line and it completely blocks 1 of the 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place. The only other alternative is an open ended wrench but they do not provide much torque and are not ideal in this situation. even in the FSM it specifically says remove the brake line.

 

Yes you need to bleed the brakes.

 

Well I did it and there was a little air. It only feels a little different from how it did right before I started bleeding them. I guess the pedal started feeling better over time and bleeding just finished the job. Feels normal now. Thanks Guys.

 

and just for the hell of it

 

The FSM also says to remove the battery cables before you do anything on the car but how often does that happen. I've yanked the rotors off my car without disconnecting the caliper so I know it can be done.

 

yeah i see now how I could have done it. I didn't see that it was a rubber hose closer to the top of the strut. I could have done it without removing the brake line.

 

Did you get the Premium Dimpled and Slotted Brake Rotors or the Cross-Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors? I was going to pull the trigger but wanted to hear from the user first! It's this or the used drilled and slotted stoptech rotors for me.

 

I wanted the dimpled rotors but i ended getting the drilled slotted ones. I am extremely happy with my purchase. The car stops like no other and ive noticed a slight difference in braking power after some highspeed braking so i guess that due to the good ventilation. I would definitely recommend them.

 

When you purchase DBA, Stoptech, or any rotors from us. We will include Motive Power Bleeder and MOTUL RBF's free of charge.

PM us for your complete package.

 

Hey Philter,

Which TSB are you quoting? I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for warped rotors... Thanks!

Paul

 

Hey Philter,

Which TSB are you quoting? I'm going to the dealer tomorrow for warped rotors... Thanks!

Paul