my steering wheel shakes when I hit brake
05-12-2011, 02:29 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Had the same at about 9K miles, shaking like crazy when breaking.They resurfaced my rotors then. NO new pads! I was upset at the time but it DID fix the problem.Now at 15K and it is starting again.I want to take it in but am afraid they will say that i need to pay to replace the pads and/or rotors.Does anyone think they have the right to say that? or will they do a correct job this time and resurface rotors and change pads under warranty cuz of the TSB?
06-02-2011, 08:32 PM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
had the same problem, it was may front break rotors, first I re-surface them, that got rid of the problem, but I thought drilled rotors look better, so I changed them. Now my G looks better and breaks ways better.
06-03-2011, 11:55 AM
#20
PS: watch for cracks. check out this AMG brembo rotor i have with hairline cracks
its now my monitor stand.
cross-drilled are known to crack early and easily.
Last edited by ImStricken; 06-03-2011 at 12:22 PM.
06-03-2011, 01:15 PM
#21
i never drove your car... but if you only replaced the rotors, and not the calipers & high performance pads... i highly doubt your car actually brakes better to feel the difference just because they are drilled. Drill and slotted rotors are 25-30+ year old technology to release out gases from asbestos brake pads. Guess what; asbestos bases pads have not been used in 40 years, so no need for holes. but since they look 'high performance' - the general car enthusiast wants them! even F1 carts dont use them.
voracious pace!
06-08-2011, 10:39 AM
#23
06-08-2011, 01:33 PM
#24
Registered User
Gotta disagree to a point here. I have used cryogenically treated (frozen) slotted rotors on my last 4 vehicles. Braking does improve, and they do not use pads any faster than a solid rotor. In fact after the swap both rotors and pads started lasting longer, much longer. And it's not just asbestos that off gasses when heated - today's materials do too. Mostly though slots help keep the rotors cooler. I won't run crossdrilled due to the cracking, but every rotor I change on my family's vehicles will be cryo & slotted.
06-08-2011, 03:30 PM
#25
take a slotted rotor: take your pointer finger and rub against the rotor hitting a slot, back & forth about 100times.
(rub left to right)
now take a solid rotor, and conduct the same test.
let me know which one wears down your skin first.
06-08-2011, 03:41 PM
#26
Gotta disagree to a point here. I have used cryogenically treated (frozen) slotted rotors on my last 4 vehicles. Braking does improve, and they do not use pads any faster than a solid rotor. In fact after the swap both rotors and pads started lasting longer, much longer. And it's not just asbestos that off gasses when heated - today's materials do too. Mostly though slots help keep the rotors cooler. I won't run crossdrilled due to the cracking, but every rotor I change on my family's vehicles will be cryo & slotted.
It is more about the effects of the cryogenic process than the slots. If you use a solid rotor and cryo treat it, you will notice similar (if not better) improvements & the pads will last longer without the unnecessary abrasion due to the slotting.
06-13-2011, 01:17 PM
#27
Registered User
ImStricken -
"...take a slotted rotor: take your pointer finger and rub against the rotor hitting a slot, back & forth about 100times. (rub left to right)
now take a solid rotor, and conduct the same test. let me know which one wears down your skin first. "
If your brake pads were pushed down into the slots with each pass this test would be accurate, mine don't, they ride over the slots. Perhaps the decrease in heat I'm seeing is offsetting anything you may see as getting shaved off. I'm talking street use too, if that makes a difference.
bschurr - I never tried solid cryo rotors. You may be right. I do know that each time I made the switch pad life increased from the stock rotor. And I never had to change the rotor again.
"...take a slotted rotor: take your pointer finger and rub against the rotor hitting a slot, back & forth about 100times. (rub left to right)
now take a solid rotor, and conduct the same test. let me know which one wears down your skin first. "
If your brake pads were pushed down into the slots with each pass this test would be accurate, mine don't, they ride over the slots. Perhaps the decrease in heat I'm seeing is offsetting anything you may see as getting shaved off. I'm talking street use too, if that makes a difference.
bschurr - I never tried solid cryo rotors. You may be right. I do know that each time I made the switch pad life increased from the stock rotor. And I never had to change the rotor again.
Last edited by Kirkules; 06-13-2011 at 01:30 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ryne
Private Classifieds
48
01-18-2016 05:39 PM
mauiwowie
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
6
08-16-2015 06:01 PM
