Here's what the STILLEN rotors would look like as far as finish goes. These photos are a bit raw and not retouched, but you get the idea.

You might notice the slot ends are fully ramped and the cross-drilled holes are radius-chamfered with specially ground tooling (not the typical angle chamfer), both standard features with STILLEN Sport Rotors. The pattern is also a slightly overlapping sweep, so grooving is minimized.

They are also available in cross-drilled only, slotted-only and the new J-Hook™ patterns.

 

^ and those are coated aswell right? (black will go away?)

 

he's some of our customer delivery photos:

 

That is correct, at least for the area where the pads rub. Also, the zinc chromate plating goes on completely evenly, so no out of plane condition will occur. It only takes .001" at the hub to create a runout condition of as much as .003" at the outside edge of the rotor. Runout that large can be felt in the brake pedal and/or steering wheel right after install. In the 25+ years we've been doing this, we've seen all sorts of ways to get it wrong and only a few ways to guarantee it is right.

 

wow, those are some nice Rotors. Never knew they made some for the G.

 

Yea, i never knew they look so good. How heavy are those compared to our OEMs? Making me feel like changing my rotors now.. -__-

 

Cross-drilling takes about 3/4 of a pound away off of the fronts and about 1/2 pound on the rears. Slotting and J-Hooks remove less than half that amount. Cross-drilled AND slotted are somewhere in between.

 

^ roughly yes, same here...a nominal difference
these are 1-piece replacement rotors so the gains (or loss here) are not that great.
AR has has never advertised weights, as we do not consider ourselves lightweight alternatives.

 

It's great to have 2 brake guys helping us out!

So is the zinc plating primarily for rust protection and then for aesthetics? It's a really nice option because rusty rotors behind a nice set of wheels and upgraded BBK is just sad. What happens to your pads when the firepath is cleared through the zinc finish? Do they need to be replaced or does the zinc coating end up just burning off?

 

DO NOT GET THEM i made my mistake and pulled the trigger on those
waited over a month to get, not only that it rains they get all rusty meanwhile they claim they are covered with some coating which they wont ever rust BS!.......

 

We've been using zinc chromate plating for decades. The corrosion protection is very good, even in salty environments. Nothing works forever, but zinc is a LOT better than nothing at all. Some companies will use cadmium, which has better long-term protection -- as much as 10 years versus 3-4 years for zinc. But we have found that cadmium often contaminates brake pads, leading to much more trouble than it is worth. Since most people don't have brake rotors on their car for 10 years (other than collectors), zinc is our preferred option.

When bedding pads on a zinc plated rotor, the pads must break through the zinc first. Since it is only .001-.002" thick, this doesn't take long. As a reference, the average human hair is .003" in diameter. Expect some scraping type sounds during the initial bedding that will taper off as the zinc disappears. Usually it is 100% gone (only where the pads run) within 50 miles of normal driving.

Keep in mind that where the pads rub, the plating will be completely removed. That area will rust if the car sits for a while or if they get wet and the car is parked. This is true for all iron brake rotors everywhere.

 

^ thanks Chris! I just wasn't sure what the impact to the pads would be. Yeah rust will be an issue on iron rotors, but it's good to know zinc plating is an attractive option.

 

I love comments like this...thanks for not sharing the full story.
you clearly ordered thru CVR who is no longer a dealer of our products for reasons many are familiar with...
I understand your frustration, but the delays were not our fault, rather CVR's.
it in no way reflects our business, so we would appreciate the clarification rather than caps lock blurbs like this.
only place my rotors could possibly form rust is the face itself, where it will be turned away in seconds once driven.

we are a made to order company by the way, taking 2-3 weeks per set as we make them for you.
having over 12 patterns, 3 zincs, and endless hub coatings, we truly cater to what you want instead of offering 3-4 basic patterns sitting on a shelf.

as chris mentioned, we are not a supporter or user of cad dipped rotors either and have had fantastic results from zinc.
to answer the question about zincs, be it silver, gold or black...the first goal is always corrosion protection, yes.
but adding color to the mix is now a nice aesthetic touch. once the contact area is worn clean, the two-tone effect is something else.
then pair it with one of AR's many patterns and you have something really special behind a nice set of wheels.
this is what we pride ourselves in...turning a normal, boring, everyday replacement product into a truly customizable, made to request type product for the car enthusiast.

wanted to share this with you all...touching upon going beyond a set of normal rotors.
this shows how instead of dealing with stock blank rears when paired with a BBK up front, one can really finish off a project 100% with our pattern match program:


this is the brembo type-3 pattern from a 355 BBK kit for an audi TTS.
the rear are AR matched, giving all 4 corners a clean cohesive matching look.

 

Hey man, from what i have read and learned, rotor's rust is inevitable. But like AR said, once you drive and hit on your brakes, it will go away.
I think the part where AR or any other rotor vendors should guarantee not to rust are the 'drilled' parts or slots and j hooks. Those are the parts that won't be worn off by the pads, and they should make sure those places are zinc coated, as for the exposed part where the pads will grind, i think the rust will build up over time.

 

These are sweet! Definitely a different look. Keep the options coming!