Warped Rotors 2010
#46
Originally Posted by ashmostro
Has more to do with pad selection than rotor material quality. Most warping isn't warping but uneven pad deposits that induce the same end result at the pedal. Turning doesn't always work if the pad deposits have diffused past the rotor surface as that part of the rotor will tend to accumulate more pad material and the story goes on.
Try different pads, and make sure to remove pad deposits through flex honing (not "resurfacing" when switching pad compounds). Also, if you drag the brakes a lot and then keep the brakes applied at stops for a long period of time, you can get uneven pad deposits.
Start with a better pad when you get the rotors replaced and see what happens
Has more to do with pad selection than rotor material quality. Most warping isn't warping but uneven pad deposits that induce the same end result at the pedal. Turning doesn't always work if the pad deposits have diffused past the rotor surface as that part of the rotor will tend to accumulate more pad material and the story goes on.
Try different pads, and make sure to remove pad deposits through flex honing (not "resurfacing" when switching pad compounds). Also, if you drag the brakes a lot and then keep the brakes applied at stops for a long period of time, you can get uneven pad deposits.
Start with a better pad when you get the rotors replaced and see what happens
Since we are new the site we will offer some promotional prices for you.
-Nick
#47
Glad to see some people talking that actually know what they are talking about, I will be calling today..
Thanks to ashmostro as well as you for good information.
#49
some updates.
Last time I was in the city of my dealership, I just showed up at the doorstep and told one of the staff of the warped rotor.
I was told it is wear and tear. If I have them work on it--be it resurface or replace--, i would have to pay for it.
I walked off.
just FYI.
Alex
Last time I was in the city of my dealership, I just showed up at the doorstep and told one of the staff of the warped rotor.
I was told it is wear and tear. If I have them work on it--be it resurface or replace--, i would have to pay for it.
I walked off.
just FYI.
Alex
My 2010 G has warped rotors too.
Currently my car has 27,000 miles on it, and I felt the vibration quite some time ago. Now the steering wheel only vibrates at high speed, e.g 80-90 mph. I just didn't have time to go to the dealer.
Next, I'll go to my dealer first to see what they will do about it. but I've prepared to buy aftermarket brake products.
Alex
Currently my car has 27,000 miles on it, and I felt the vibration quite some time ago. Now the steering wheel only vibrates at high speed, e.g 80-90 mph. I just didn't have time to go to the dealer.
Next, I'll go to my dealer first to see what they will do about it. but I've prepared to buy aftermarket brake products.
Alex
#51
Sometime, actually most of the time it is just pad deposits that makes the brakes pulsate; Here is a easy test: find a safe place to get up to freeway speed, brakes hard for a few time. If the brakes continues to pulsate then the rotor may suspected.
#52
Warped Rotors????
Please everybody, read panel #25 of this discussion and go to the Stoptech site for their "white" papers to find out the real truth about what happens to disc brakes during use on the street or the track. This info. is from real testing to validate what was happening on the road and the track and not just pure B.S. that just keeps getting passed on from non-educated techs., drivers, and dealer service reps. Information can give you the power to stop problems if you use it, so use it or just throw your money out the window.
Al
Al
#53
I bought my 2010 GxS in January with 14k miles and just hit 35k last week. My rotors started warping around 30k, and had them resurfaced. Seems like it's a recurring issue for older and current models? I hear the coupes have this issue too, is that true?
#54
The 'warping' is a pad problem. They are getting overheated and creating judder. (Rotors rarely warp - that is just what it feels like)
Slotted rotors should help w/ this as they keep the pads fresh and the pads will take some abuse without overheating. Or you can upgrade your pads to a better, high temp pad.
-Nick
Slotted rotors should help w/ this as they keep the pads fresh and the pads will take some abuse without overheating. Or you can upgrade your pads to a better, high temp pad.
-Nick
#56
You can do this by
-Rebedding - (does not always work if you have soft pads and the uneven layer is bad)
-Sanding or wire brush type cleaning
Or Finally turning.
If the pads are glazed then they need attention as well.
That should get you back to normal operation. Now you need to figure out what part of you driving is causing the problem or else ti will simply re-occur over time. Generally it's overheated pads clamped onto a slow or stopped rotor.
Example - In the city do 10 stoplights in a row stopping hard from 40-50 + - then sit on the brakes at the next long light. Or do several hard stops from high speed and get hard into ABS repeatedly. (Remember ABS slows the rotor down pretty good.)
It's definitely more prevalent w/ softer ceramic type pads and hard(er) driving.
-Ken
#57
All good suggestions!
You can also throw on some race pads and keep them below temp and the abrasive friction mode will clean the rotors for you over a day or so. Riskier from a safety standpoint but easier if you don't want to deal with the added labor of pulling the rotors. Just another option, but not for the faint of heart.
You can also throw on some race pads and keep them below temp and the abrasive friction mode will clean the rotors for you over a day or so. Riskier from a safety standpoint but easier if you don't want to deal with the added labor of pulling the rotors. Just another option, but not for the faint of heart.
#58
I have Hawk Ceramic pads and it feels like I have mild judder coming on. Which pad do you recommend that is "harder" and potentially more resistent to judder. I don't really care about noise and dust anymore--this judder has got to go! The car is just my daily driver too.
#59
Another case of warped rotors here... My 2010 G37x with only 16,400 miles just had both front rotors resurfaced under warranty.
Started noticing shuddering on the brake peddle around 15K, especially on high speed braking, but held out until my next oil change. Service department said as long as there was substantial pads remaining, I guess to disprove heavy abuse, the rotors would be covered under warranty, problem solved now, feels good as new.
Started noticing shuddering on the brake peddle around 15K, especially on high speed braking, but held out until my next oil change. Service department said as long as there was substantial pads remaining, I guess to disprove heavy abuse, the rotors would be covered under warranty, problem solved now, feels good as new.
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