Warped Rotors 2010
08-28-2012, 08:39 PM
#31
Registered User
My 2010 G has warped rotors too.
Currently my car has 27,000 miles on it, and I felt the vibration quite some time ago. Now the steering wheel only vibrates at high speed, e.g 80-90 mph. I just didn't have time to go to the dealer.
Next, I'll go to my dealer first to see what they will do about it. but I've prepared to buy aftermarket brake products.
Alex
Currently my car has 27,000 miles on it, and I felt the vibration quite some time ago. Now the steering wheel only vibrates at high speed, e.g 80-90 mph. I just didn't have time to go to the dealer.
Next, I'll go to my dealer first to see what they will do about it. but I've prepared to buy aftermarket brake products.
Alex
08-29-2012, 09:17 AM
#33
common things that cause rotors to warp are
1. don't over-tighten lug nuts. always torque to spec
2. do not wash your car right after you drive it. when you drive your car and your rotor is hot as fuh, don't run water on it.... it'll cause the metal to contract and expand too quickly. An example of this is running cold water over heated glass... it will break.
1. don't over-tighten lug nuts. always torque to spec
2. do not wash your car right after you drive it. when you drive your car and your rotor is hot as fuh, don't run water on it.... it'll cause the metal to contract and expand too quickly. An example of this is running cold water over heated glass... it will break.
#2 what do you do in case of rain?
08-29-2012, 09:24 AM
#34
Rain isn't an issue because if it happens while you are driving you will be using the brakes so the rotors won't be experiencing sudden thermal shock. Even if the rain comes when you're parked the likelihood of the rotors getting thermally shocked is very low.
10-17-2012, 08:19 PM
#35
So I decided for $125.00 I would just have the dealership turn the rotors. I go in make the appointment on a Friday night, and the service guy I deal with tells me he won't be in so to go to this other guy. I show up at 6:45am to drop off my car and the guy tells me it will be $150.00. Hummmm then he says per wheel! I told him he was on crack went and spent 2 hours labor and $40.00 to do them myself.
PS I hear it is a build up on the rotors, not warping. What can be done to stop this?
10-18-2012, 01:11 PM
#37
Yep my 2010 XS. At 6,500 front rotors warped. Dealer said Infiniti requires them to first turn rotors. The runout exceeded specs. I argued it was pointless to turn them. If they cannot handle the heat at full thickness they would warp again.
At 12,000 my rears warped. Again they gad to turn them for the first occurrence.
At 15,800 fronts warped again. This time they replaced front pads and rotors..
At 17,500 the rears warped again. This time they replaced pads and rotors.
I just hit 30,000 and guess what fronts are warped again. At this point I'm so pissed off I'm thinking of cutting my losses in terms of wasting more of my time and just replace with afermarket.
All was covered under warranty. Dealer wanted to put old pads on when they replaced the rotors. I said no f'ing way. The dealer "well Mr. H we cannot do that without Infiniti authorization, that could take some time". My response "do whatever your have to,get them on the phone now I'll talk to them, but they are not going to enjoy this conversation.". Authorization for new pads somehow was obtained in about 2 minutes.
The first instance they asked if I tracked the car. I told them my 97 Maxima' front brakes lasted 95,000 before I replaced front pads and rotors, 115,000 for rears. Never on a track. Do I drive the car hard, a little but by no means extreme or abusive.
The tSB for front back plate replacement did not apply. They need a new source for their rotors!!!!
At 12,000 my rears warped. Again they gad to turn them for the first occurrence.
At 15,800 fronts warped again. This time they replaced front pads and rotors..
At 17,500 the rears warped again. This time they replaced pads and rotors.
I just hit 30,000 and guess what fronts are warped again. At this point I'm so pissed off I'm thinking of cutting my losses in terms of wasting more of my time and just replace with afermarket.
All was covered under warranty. Dealer wanted to put old pads on when they replaced the rotors. I said no f'ing way. The dealer "well Mr. H we cannot do that without Infiniti authorization, that could take some time". My response "do whatever your have to,get them on the phone now I'll talk to them, but they are not going to enjoy this conversation.". Authorization for new pads somehow was obtained in about 2 minutes.
The first instance they asked if I tracked the car. I told them my 97 Maxima' front brakes lasted 95,000 before I replaced front pads and rotors, 115,000 for rears. Never on a track. Do I drive the car hard, a little but by no means extreme or abusive.
The tSB for front back plate replacement did not apply. They need a new source for their rotors!!!!
10-18-2012, 02:19 PM
#38
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I replaced rotors on my 2004 and my 2007 at around 10,000 miles. My 2009 went to 39,000 miles with no warping. I guess they fixed the problem? Lot of downhill here with the brakes working hard.
10-18-2012, 04:14 PM
#41
Has more to do with pad selection than rotor material quality. Most warping isn't warping but uneven pad deposits that induce the same end result at the pedal. Turning doesn't always work if the pad deposits have diffused past the rotor surface as that part of the rotor will tend to accumulate more pad material and the story goes on.
Try different pads, and make sure to remove pad deposits through flex honing (not "resurfacing" when switching pad compounds). Also, if you drag the brakes a lot and then keep the brakes applied at stops for a long period of time, you can get uneven pad deposits.
Start with a better pad when you get the rotors replaced and see what happens.
Try different pads, and make sure to remove pad deposits through flex honing (not "resurfacing" when switching pad compounds). Also, if you drag the brakes a lot and then keep the brakes applied at stops for a long period of time, you can get uneven pad deposits.
Start with a better pad when you get the rotors replaced and see what happens.
10-18-2012, 04:32 PM
#42
I'm pretty sure they index them at the factory because I've seen the evidence of this on the wheel studs, however, by the time the car reaches you, many hands have touched the car and it is possible the lug nut torque can be off. It doesn't take much of a difference in torque between lugs to introduce lateral runout. Furthermore, it's easy to introduce runout by hitting a curb as well. Of course brake pads play an important role as well with pad deposits. I've been using the high friction pads on the wife's 09 FX and even though they dust like crazy and wear the rotors quickly, they sure can handle a hell of a beating while keeping the braking as smooth as glass throughout their wear cycle.
10-20-2012, 06:26 PM
#43
Registered User
In my experience the key to avoiding warped rotors is making sure the wheels are properly torqued when rotating the tires. I don't trust but a few people to manage this task....and the dealer is not one of them. I have 26,000 miles on my 2010 and no evidence of warping yet. The last car I had with this problem was a 2002 Nissan Maxima...went through rotors every 11,000 miles until I started torquing the wheels myself.
10-21-2012, 10:47 AM
#45
Has more to do with pad selection than rotor material quality. Most warping isn't warping but uneven pad deposits that induce the same end result at the pedal. Turning doesn't always work if the pad deposits have diffused past the rotor surface as that part of the rotor will tend to accumulate more pad material and the story goes on.
Try different pads, and make sure to remove pad deposits through flex honing (not "resurfacing" when switching pad compounds). Also, if you drag the brakes a lot and then keep the brakes applied at stops for a long period of time, you can get uneven pad deposits.
Start with a better pad when you get the rotors replaced and see what happens.
Try different pads, and make sure to remove pad deposits through flex honing (not "resurfacing" when switching pad compounds). Also, if you drag the brakes a lot and then keep the brakes applied at stops for a long period of time, you can get uneven pad deposits.
Start with a better pad when you get the rotors replaced and see what happens.
This^^^^^^^^I feel strongely that it has something to do with the stock pads. My service advisor is on the same page. I am going to give new pads a shot and see how they work out.