Rad_Slinger

iTrader: (12)

$199 to resurface each rotor?

That's the most rediculous thing I have ever heard. I just replaced the OEM rotors on my '09 and it didnt cost me that much to get brand new Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors.

Oh, replaced them due to the very slight vibration I had while braking. Vibration AND oem brake squeal is now gone. Actually a little scary how well my brakes work now.

Tazicon

iTrader: (1)

I was told $125.00 to do all 4 to me that's not bad. I decided I was just going to go a different route. The issue is not putting my car into a different class in autoX. I will probably do new rotors pads s/s lines etc, but push it far as I can with out jumping classes.

sneakers

iTrader: (1)

I have an 09XS and been complaining about car not stopping quick enough. Recently it developed into vibration. Dealership wants to charge me diagnostic fee for looking at and will waive the fee if its cover under warranty.Couple of post back someone mention there is a tab for this. Is true? Thought stealership would say this is wear and tire and hit me with diag fee. Was thinking to use this excuse to upgrade to bbk

Herm4376

Yep my 2010 XS. At 6,500 front rotors warped. Dealer said Infiniti requires them to first turn rotors. The runout exceeded specs. I argued it was pointless to turn them. If they cannot handle the heat at full thickness they would warp again.

At 12,000 my rears warped. Again they gad to turn them for the first occurrence.

At 15,800 fronts warped again. This time they replaced front pads and rotors..

At 17,500 the rears warped again. This time they replaced pads and rotors.

I just hit 30,000 and guess what fronts are warped again. At this point I'm so pissed off I'm thinking of cutting my losses in terms of wasting more of my time and just replace with afermarket.

All was covered under warranty. Dealer wanted to put old pads on when they replaced the rotors. I said no f'ing way. The dealer "well Mr. H we cannot do that without Infiniti authorization, that could take some time". My response "do whatever your have to,get them on the phone now I'll talk to them, but they are not going to enjoy this conversation.". Authorization for new pads somehow was obtained in about 2 minutes.

The first instance they asked if I tracked the car. I told them my 97 Maxima' front brakes lasted 95,000 before I replaced front pads and rotors, 115,000 for rears. Never on a track. Do I drive the car hard, a little but by no means extreme or abusive.

The tSB for front back plate replacement did not apply. They need a new source for their rotors!!!!

Herm4376

Mattster how many miles on the Stoptech? Did you do front & rear? What pads did you use? How is the brake dust? Thanks

strictlys

I dont really care for the vibrations too much. But dealer wanted to charge 160 to turn two front rotors. I can get centric rotors for almost half that price in a pair. I'm going to hold off until i get annoyed of it. I may do the route someone stated upgrade slotted rotors, ss lines and new pads. Since it works for what I do and I have vibrations here and there im not too worried.

ashmostro

iTrader: (3)

Don't waste money on slotted rotors. You gain next to nothing for the increased price. Go with OEM since they are priced the same or slightly less than centric.

Rad_Slinger

iTrader: (12)

About 2k miles on the stoptechs. Did front and rear. Went with HPS. They dust, but not terrible.

Didn't want to go with ceramic pads because i heard they wear the rotors down faster...and I don't want to replace these rotors any time soon. The HPS are pretty nice. They're not too terrible cold, but they are truly awesome when they heat up, and just keep getting better the hotter they get.

The rotors are pretty good, but they rust really easy. Other than that no complaints.

I also flushed the system with amsoil 600 dot 4. Definitely changed the way braking feels in the G

It's a pretty good setup. Will probably go with a 2 piece rotor system when and if I have to change the rotors again.

Rad_Slinger

iTrader: (12)

This isn't necessarily true.

While I agree that performance wise, most of us don't use slotted/drilled rotors to their potential for daily driving, and most likely don't need the heat disappation for braking, there are other benefits to using them.

However, in regards to rotor warp, slotted/drilled get rid of heat faster and resist warping.


Cost wise, my stoptechs weren't that much more expensive than oem. And for the extra $$...I'd rather spend it than have to replace the rotors all the time...like someone stated they're doing above.


Just my opinion.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

And on that note... always use proper torque settings on your lug nuts.

ashmostro

iTrader: (3)

i like

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

my 2011 had 34,000 at the time of service

wasnt a problem.
Try another dealer

lippstuh

iTrader: (2)

common things that cause rotors to warp are
1. don't over-tighten lug nuts. always torque to spec
2. do not wash your car right after you drive it. when you drive your car and your rotor is hot as fuh, don't run water on it.... it'll cause the metal to contract and expand too quickly. An example of this is running cold water over heated glass... it will break.

Rad_Slinger

iTrader: (12)

smarty pants

Herm4376

Lippstuh, very good points/advice. Just to elaborate on my history detailed in my earlier post. I always torqued to specs, never washed when hot and its first time in the rain was at about 11,000 miles. So by process of elimination I suspect it is the quality of OEM rotors.