Any Akebono owners change fluid yet to anything other than oem fluid?

If so, what fluid are you using and what results have you gotten so far?

Any comparison to the oem fluid?

Thanks

 

We do this all the time. My preferences are AP Formula 5.1 for the street and HPDE, AP600 for serious track work. I don't have data on the OE fluid, but is it more than likely a decent quality DOT4 (and probably lowest bidder!). There are only a handful of chemical plants around the world that manufacture automotive brake fluid -- and hundreds of different bottles/labels. If you buy a quality fluid, it will have a higher boiling point, less dissolved air and would be package in nitrogen, not air, to keep it 'dry'.

Chris

 

Motul brake fluid is amazing. It's what I will always be using

 

Thanks Chris, but how about a recommendation for a good street use fluid that can be had "off the shelf?"

 

already answered that lol ^^

 

Using Motul.



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My friend recommended against the RBF600 fluid, saying that it absorbs water too fast and requires a lot of bleeding. Good for track use (he's avid autox), but not so much for street use.

 

I used RBF600 as well. It works just fine. It's expensive. No, I didn't feel any difference in regular everyday use. It doesn't require any more bleeding than anything else.

 

It does depend on driving conditions. Under daily driving conditions, you can get away with bleeding it every 6 months to a year. Under track conditions, I wouldn't use it for more than 2 track days. The easy test: bleed it and see if the fluid is dark.

I bleed it every other track day; depending on the track, the pedal may start feeling mushy before the 2nd of the second day, which was the case this last weekend at Autoclub Speedway. A lot of guys were bleeding every other session. ACS does have many heavy braking zones, including ~130-45 for turn 3, ~90-45 for turn 5, ~110 to 40 for turn 9, and ~110-45 for turn 12. (G37 speeds)

 

AP Formula 5.1 isn't too hard to find. It has a slightly lower viscosity, which ABS valves like. I keep some on the shelf for when I need it. Which reminds me, I have two vehicles that need flushed this weekend...

In a pinch, I would suggest reaching for the best DOT4 I could find at a local parts store.

Chris

 

Typical brake fluids absorb 1.5 - 2% moisture content per year (water vapor comes through the OE rubber brake lines, primarily, with more coming in through the M/C reservoir cap diaphragm or duck-bill valve). Since wet boiling points are measured at 3.7% moisture content (per SAE specs), the only time you need to be worried about moisture-laden fluids is if you don't change them every two years, like the manufacturers recommend.

Some "Low Moisture Absorbing" fluids contain trace additives to slow down the ingress of water. But remember, additives usually have trade-offs associated with them, such as dry boiling point or less attractive recovery properties if boiled. I stay away from these fluids as I change mine regularly and don't want compromises.

The best way to keep your fluid dry is to flush on schedule (much more often if tracking the car -- autox doesn't count) and install stainless steel braided brake lines. The SS lines will stop the moisture from getting in MUCH better than an LMA fluid.

Chris

 

What, other than the 5.1 (doubt I can find that locally) would you recommend as the best DOT4 off the shelf (I can get the RBF600 here btw)?

 

I would not recommend getting a "higher" spec fluid than what you need, as they need to be changed out more. Stick to a quality DOT3 or DOT4 fluid, and you'll be fine for street use.

 

once again...Motul

 

Or ATE Super-blue/type 200