Brake Vibrations?
04-02-2010, 03:25 AM
#1
Brake Vibrations?
Its been a week since I installed my new pads and rotors. I have the hawk hp plus pads with stoptech drilled rotors. I notice at speeds above 40mph, when I go to brake I hear a sort of a jittery sound. The car doesnt vibrate or anything, its just the sound as if something is stuck on the rotors and causing that sound this sound when in contact with the pads. Is this normal for new rotors as part of the "break in" period? Btw the HP Plus pads are just fantastic and they bite like crazy! stock pads had nothing on these! Anyways any input would be appreciated..
04-02-2010, 09:57 AM
#2
Hmm I haven't noticed anything like that with mine and I just put on almost the exact same set up. Stoptech drilled/slotted rotors with hawk ceramic pads instead. Did you make sure and bead the brakes in properly right after you installed the new pads?
04-02-2010, 03:00 PM
#5
bleeding the brakes would not help with the noise, just the feel of the brake pedal.
if you still have your old OEM pads, you could try changing them back to those with the new rotors. from their you can determine if the type of pads are the cause
if you still have your old OEM pads, you could try changing them back to those with the new rotors. from their you can determine if the type of pads are the cause
04-02-2010, 03:28 PM
#7
Its been a week since I installed my new pads and rotors. I have the hawk hp plus pads with stoptech drilled rotors. I notice at speeds above 40mph, when I go to brake I hear a sort of a jittery sound. The car doesnt vibrate or anything, its just the sound as if something is stuck on the rotors and causing that sound this sound when in contact with the pads. Is this normal for new rotors as part of the "break in" period? Btw the HP Plus pads are just fantastic and they bite like crazy! stock pads had nothing on these! Anyways any input would be appreciated..
It has nothing to do with drilled or slotted rotors; pads are not "flexible" and there is no material being scraped off, contrary to popular belief. They are there for outgassing (which is not common on a modern street pad).
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04-02-2010, 06:08 PM
#9
When ever you put new pads on you need to make sure and match them up with the rotor properly. This is called beding in or burnishing them. Here are the instructions for them from hawks site.
Burnishing Instructions
Burnishing Instructions
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
3. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
Burnishing Instructions
Burnishing Instructions
1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
3. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
04-02-2010, 06:08 PM
#10
This is from their site and explains what the procedure does.
Note:
Hawk Performance burnishes its High Performance Street brake pads as a final step in the factory, but all brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotors (new or used) that they will be used against. Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
Hawk Performance burnishes its High Performance Street brake pads as a final step in the factory, but all brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotors (new or used) that they will be used against. Properly bedding-in new brake pads results in a transfer film being generated at the pad and rotor interface to maximize brake performance.
04-03-2010, 12:52 AM
#12
ok cool, I did something similar, I did a moderate brake from 30mph to 0...then I did a 50mph to 0..lastly I did a 65mph to 0. I guess i'll have to do as they say above, what does it mean by "drag brakes"? like don't prolong the braking?
04-03-2010, 03:44 PM
#15
Also, after you do your hard "slowdowns", keep rolling; you want to make sure the brakes cool evenly and completely.
The goal of the bedding procedure is to get a transfer layer onto the brake rotors, and to get the street pads up to full operating temperature. You want to get the temperature high enough that they're just about to fade; this is pretty high with the HP+, nearly double that of the OEM pads.
After you get them up to temp, you want to make sure they're cool, before parking the car. Just drive around at slow speeds (if you're bedding on the street) without using the brakes for about 3-5 minutes to make sure they're cool.
Don't come to a complete stop at any time, as that could potentially mess up the bedding process. A BIG deserted/empty parking lot would be great for this (you can accelerate, brake, turn around, and never stop rolling), unless you have access to a track to break in the pads at.
The goal of the bedding procedure is to get a transfer layer onto the brake rotors, and to get the street pads up to full operating temperature. You want to get the temperature high enough that they're just about to fade; this is pretty high with the HP+, nearly double that of the OEM pads.
After you get them up to temp, you want to make sure they're cool, before parking the car. Just drive around at slow speeds (if you're bedding on the street) without using the brakes for about 3-5 minutes to make sure they're cool.
Don't come to a complete stop at any time, as that could potentially mess up the bedding process. A BIG deserted/empty parking lot would be great for this (you can accelerate, brake, turn around, and never stop rolling), unless you have access to a track to break in the pads at.