Xcalibur

iTrader: (2)

If you own a REAR ONLY - SPL not SPC camber kit...
Have you noticed the adjustment bolts on them have rust on them?

WTF is that all about. Payed a lot for them and don't understand why they wouldn't be stainless steel. See below: Not happy man!

Xcalibur

iTrader: (2)

Ok well if you have SPL-Rear Camber arms news for you is don't bother to check they are Rusting!

I spoke with a rep at SPL today on phone and he was very polite and helpful and epxlained it was not stainless steel. I explained I was a bit disappointed since they are made of chromoly and that the very bolt that holds it together is metal. He told me no worries he could give me the replacment part number in stainless steel. He was nice to point out the manufacture of those bolts and where to get the stainless replacement bolts.

So if you guys own these camber arms and want to upgrade the bolts to stainless steel. Here is the replacement stainless steel bolts:
McMaster-Carr

Part # 92185A540
Description: socket cap screw - 1/4-20, 3/4 inch length
Important Spray on some antis-seize on bolts when doing so.


Of course this doesn't solve the rust on the big end part of the arm with the screw threads. I'll have to take a wire brush to it and then paint that section black.
Would I recommend this product? NO!



*

Presto

didnt expect this from SPL, most people have said that the SPL quality is far better than SPC especially when comparing new vs new.

is it true only SPL rear kit fits the cars with 4was?

finagle69

iTrader: (3)

^damn. that sucks. good job on informing the community though.

Blackjack

iTrader: (3)

Weird... Mine aren't rusting and they've been on the car for about 5,000 miles.

Xcalibur

iTrader: (2)

^^ Could I have counterfeit parts?.. don't think so since the guy told me at SPL they are not stainless steel. I don't know how yours arnt rusting then?

All I know is I see rust (you guys do to in the pic clearly) when there absolutely should be none. When I told this to SPL they didnt defend it.

I bought these for SHOW(in Chrome) reasons and wouldn't want to show that. After spending about $350.00+ on these I am pissed off and am going to demand a refund!

Wont get it but will try anyways!

Blackjack

iTrader: (3)

I will check again this weekend when I get home... I was under the car cleaning the other weekend and they looked fine. I'll take a closer look.

If they are, we'll make it known here and hopefully SPL will fix the problem or else they likely won't anymore sales from this forum.

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

It does suck that it rusted, no doubt about that. But have you considered simply asking SPL to exchange the parts that are rusting for the SS screws? It will solve your problem and they are much more likely to go for that. I'm not telling you what to do, that's just my thoughts from a vendor's point of view. Demanding a refund for a part that functions as designed but has some cosmetic deficiency probably isn't going to get you anything.

And thanks for making the community aware of it.

SPC/Eibach FTW.

Xcalibur

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys! I'm going to call them tomorrow to see what they can do. They seems to be really nice over there. And they are supposedly very reputable. So lets see what happens. I just was shoked man because I just had put them on a few months back. And I went under the car to investigage a broken bushing leaking ontop of my rear-dif cover. When I saw that I was like wow!

Will keep you guys informed on what happens.

Xcalibur

iTrader: (2)

Guys,

I called them yesterday and spoke to one of the reps there. I told him I'd send him an email with the picture above with details. They responded back to me within an hour.

Sorry for delay on this guys. It was sent to my Jobs email and I forgot to send a copy home to post it. I'm gonig to try there recomendation for the screw adjuster part but for the bolts themselves they are badly rusted.


FYI Below:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Mark!

Stainless steel has a yield strength of about 30,000 psi, compared to the steel used for our adjuster (12L14) which has a yield strength of 60,000 psi. Stainless steel is relatively weak, which is why high strength bolts/nuts (ie. grade 8 or higher) are always made from steel.

Our adjuster is actually given a electroless nickel plating, which is just about one of the most durable platings you can put on the part. It actually costs us $10 a piece to plate the adjusters. It is unusual that it would develop rust so quickly. Could you see if the rust comes off by spraying a little light oil and using a toothbrush? If it does come off, then it would be iron/rust that may have been carried on and deposited on there by water, it is not the part itself rusting.

If it does not come off, then it is possible that the plating was worn off somehow, perhaps by the nut. We can replace the adjuster and nut under warranty. For the allen head bolt we can easily replace that as well, we recently switched to a ultra coated bolt that should be more corrosion resistant.

As for painting the adjuster, keep in mind that threading the adjuster will easily wear off any paint, since paint is very soft compared to the metal on metal contact of threaded parts; this is why we do not paint or powdercoat the adjusters. You can use oil or grease that is designed to inhibit rust, though generally they do need to be re-applied every so often.

Let me know if the oil/toothbrush trick seems to work, and I can send you replacement parts accordingly.

Sincerely,
Dr. Aikmeng Kuah
SPL PARTS INC.

Xcalibur

iTrader: (2)

Follow-up to this. I tried that toothbrush and oil method. I still see rust! I'll wire brush it and paint it. WTF I dont have time and money to take it part and let my car sit while I wait for it to be replaced/shipped back. Done with this company and there products! Don't let me spell what I think SPL stands for!