Help SPC Front Camber Kit Rattle
04-19-2009, 07:38 PM
#151
With Eibach, G35 arms, -0.5 caster, I took some bumps and angled approaches hard enough (harder than I would ever normally drive) to feel the suspension bottom out. Did not hear any metal-metal and took it apart and could not find any marks. I would like any new arm just in the 5% chance I put coilovers on one day, but I think the G35 arm is fine for this set-up. If you can wait, I would give it some time to hear from SPC as to if they are going to change anything and they may or may not. The next step is for the two of us with the test arms to get alignments with some range of adjustments measured. SPC is writing up exactly what they want the shops to measure.
Hey Hamster? I just had my Eibach's and SPC rear camber kit installed the other day and I had the front SPC ordered too but cancelled it after reading all of this a couple weeks ago. I still want the SPC front but only after it is fixed. You think the G35 arm is an acceptable solution? Have you had it hit medal at all since you installed them? If it works right and never hits the fender then I will just order the G35 arm. Thanks for the help on this.
04-27-2009, 11:47 AM
#154
no, they were waiting for Hamster and me to get alignments to finalize numbers. chill, it's not their fault.
I (stupidly) forgot my alignment sheet at home this morning, however, I can say that maximum positve adjusted camber with a coilover drop down to 26-1/8" from ground to fender is -0.9 deg*.
*this measurement was taken with caster adjusted negative one notch. if you do not adjust the caster, then the camber plate has to be slid in a milimeter or so. this is due to the edge of the pocket where the top of the arm travels into. basically the leading edge will just hit it, but either sliding it in, or leaving it at max with one notch of negative caster will work. i like the negative caster for handling purposes anyway.
I (stupidly) forgot my alignment sheet at home this morning, however, I can say that maximum positve adjusted camber with a coilover drop down to 26-1/8" from ground to fender is -0.9 deg*.
*this measurement was taken with caster adjusted negative one notch. if you do not adjust the caster, then the camber plate has to be slid in a milimeter or so. this is due to the edge of the pocket where the top of the arm travels into. basically the leading edge will just hit it, but either sliding it in, or leaving it at max with one notch of negative caster will work. i like the negative caster for handling purposes anyway.
04-29-2009, 05:52 PM
#155
Registered User
no, they were waiting for Hamster and me to get alignments to finalize numbers. chill, it's not their fault.
I (stupidly) forgot my alignment sheet at home this morning, however, I can say that maximum positve adjusted camber with a coilover drop down to 26-1/8" from ground to fender is -0.9 deg*.
*this measurement was taken with caster adjusted negative one notch. if you do not adjust the caster, then the camber plate has to be slid in a milimeter or so. this is due to the edge of the pocket where the top of the arm travels into. basically the leading edge will just hit it, but either sliding it in, or leaving it at max with one notch of negative caster will work. i like the negative caster for handling purposes anyway.
I (stupidly) forgot my alignment sheet at home this morning, however, I can say that maximum positve adjusted camber with a coilover drop down to 26-1/8" from ground to fender is -0.9 deg*.
*this measurement was taken with caster adjusted negative one notch. if you do not adjust the caster, then the camber plate has to be slid in a milimeter or so. this is due to the edge of the pocket where the top of the arm travels into. basically the leading edge will just hit it, but either sliding it in, or leaving it at max with one notch of negative caster will work. i like the negative caster for handling purposes anyway.
04-29-2009, 07:15 PM
#156
I had mine done on Saturday.
I measure 26 1/8" from ground to fender.
Max positive adjusted camber is (-) 0.8 degrees up front. My starting camber with OEMs was around (-) 1.9 degrees.
HamstersG is on Eibachs, so his will likely be less negative.
I measure 26 1/8" from ground to fender.
Max positive adjusted camber is (-) 0.8 degrees up front. My starting camber with OEMs was around (-) 1.9 degrees.
HamstersG is on Eibachs, so his will likely be less negative.
04-30-2009, 12:34 AM
#157
Registered User
Some people got -2.0 up front with the Eibachs. I'm not sure how, since you're only at -1.9? In any event, adjusted +0.8 = -1.2. That's still not within spec...and that's with a mild drop. This does not bode well.
04-30-2009, 09:35 AM
#159
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^^ from what I've gathered g35 arms are good with eibachs and if you don't plan on going any lower. In your case with CO's, I think you should use the g37 with a few bumpstops. . . I could be wrong though and not quite sure the reasoning
04-30-2009, 11:38 AM
#160
EDIT: I reread your post. I may be mistaken with the original number. it could have been more negative than 1.9, i just don't have a true reference point except for what i calculated.
04-30-2009, 05:18 PM
#161
Yes, if you purchase a new set from SPC, they will not ship you the G37 arms, but will send the G35 arms instead. You're getting KW's correct? If so, if you drop lower than mine (26 1/8" ground to fender) then your camber will be correctable less than (-)0.8 degrees, probably more like (-) 1.0 or (-) 1.2 depending how slammed you make it. Also, I don't know of anyone else on KW's with the arms, but the number of bumpstops (urethane washers) you'll need to add will most likely be less than mine. I needed 13 on each side to reduce contact with fender (again, i think this is BC related).
04-30-2009, 05:51 PM
#162
Yes. Lots. 2 reasons:
1) The camber/caster adjuster ball-joint is taller than the OEM ball joint. That distance doesn't just go away, and it will hit the fender unless bump stops are put on the strut.
2) BC coilovers are not the most effectively R&D'd coilover system on the planet, so the size and location of the BC bump stop is not optimal.
So, as I said, you will likely need them, just probably not as many.
PS: how is it not having all the nav commands? or did you have the neutered version on your BO? i've driven a hacked car and hated it. i loooove my full voice commands.
1) The camber/caster adjuster ball-joint is taller than the OEM ball joint. That distance doesn't just go away, and it will hit the fender unless bump stops are put on the strut.
2) BC coilovers are not the most effectively R&D'd coilover system on the planet, so the size and location of the BC bump stop is not optimal.
So, as I said, you will likely need them, just probably not as many.
PS: how is it not having all the nav commands? or did you have the neutered version on your BO? i've driven a hacked car and hated it. i loooove my full voice commands.
04-30-2009, 09:48 PM
#163
I will be at least another week. Too busy at work to get my car back together. However, I was at -1.7 and -1.3 deg on OEM bar and I am pretty confident that I will end up at -0.4 give or take a little based on all the manual measurements I did. That would be in align with your results.