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You are planning on covering the inner kickplate trim pieces as well? These?
You might regret that one. First time your shoe scuffs the leather (or worse) you'll be cursing like a mad man.
@ILM-NC G37S Yea, They look bad since they butt up against the rear quarter so it doesn’t flow. I have decent looking fake leather I got early on in the project that I didn’t use and it matches pretty close. I’ll probably just use that.
I actually was keeping a pair driving shoes in my car for when is going to work since it’s not easy (or comfortable) driving a stick with oxford dress
shoes on, lol. So I wouldn’t be wiping muddy shoes on them anyways. People would look at me funny tho when they saw me change my shoes like me
Rodgers when I got in my car! Haha.
@Joyryde The dash and entire center console (including arm rest) is already wrapped and installed. Literally EVERYTHING is getting the leather treatment. The only thing I have left to wrap is the doors, passenger visor and the the panels that run along floor under each door.
I dont understand how y'all have have had such a bad luck with paint. Proper scuffing with the right prep, + adhesion promoter + correct interior paint will hold for years.
Maybe due to the scuffing? I get the textured look is a hard one to achieve especially if you've sanded the original texture off.
I dont understand how y'all have have had such a bad luck with paint. Proper scuffing with the right prep, + adhesion promoter + correct interior paint will hold for years.
Maybe due to the scuffing? I get the textured look is a hard one to achieve especially if you've sanded the original texture off.
I was thinking the same thing. Even Rustoleum is a good paint to use if applied correctly and with patience. Mine are still intact after a year and a half.
I was thinking the same thing. Even Rustoleum is a good paint to use if applied correctly and with patience. Mine are still intact after a year and a half.
You've hit the nail on the head with Rustoleum. I've been using it for 10+ years and I praise it. Their gloss brand requires no primer and no clear to achieve self etch and provide a glossy hard finish.
I used their semi gloss on my center trims which yielded great results. Lastly I use their metallic enamels on engines that are still running today with no fading/peeling/etc. Resistant to harsh cleaners
The best part is if properly layed, the gloss shines on it's own without any clear.
I used the metallic rust oleum on all my interior trim (the silver bits) and it came out great. I used a cheap clear on it first pass and didn’t like it. I sanded down and resprayed just paint and it looks better. I bought some 2k clear that I’ll use for when I finally am set with but haven’t used it yet b/ I’m debating switching up the color. I used a color close to my car (gunmetal) but thinking of doing something more bold.
Im not against paint, but for the visor or things that move and get touched, better off just getting black pieces from factory if they are available. Just my 2¢.
Yeah, I don’t use clear on the interior pieces. I only used flat black or satin black. Satin is probably the best choice that has worked for me the best and looks factory. The most important thing people sometimes forget is degreasing the plastics with something like simple green, to prevent any oil or dirt from breaking the paint off.
Infinti of Coral Gables has some goodies out by the trash. Their tech area is a few blocks from the actual dealership. This is just in an alley. I bet they toss a bunch of cool stuff.
01-04-2021, 01:14 PM
