I bought the 3 watt eagle eye from cenn2010 on ebay, and the controller from same. NO heat what so ever builds in my lights, but I will feel them after a longer drive than the 15-20 mile commutes so far. There may be better controllers out there but the no inside wiring is very convenient with the volt sensing module that cenn2010 sells. There are some quirks, but you'll have to figure them out yourself. :-)

 

how did you connect the LEDs? connected to the battery?

 

This was my original intention... but if you look at your car or go back to my configurations setup... the corners of the G grill are solid, and the edges are not full slots, but half slots... so the positioning was not precise and aligned... In the end and like I said 4-5 attempts at a factory looking install... I was forced to go straight, and used the honeycomb 4th hole down line as my guide. I used the top lines, bottom, diagonal didn't space right. Again, no mods to the Grill were made as I wasn't 100% sure I was going to keep this mod on my G. I could remove everything in 1/2 hour. 5 minutes to remove the grill, and 25 minutes the fricken radiator cover! Removing / installing the radiator cover without cracking it is the hardest part of the install. I'm not joking.

 

My car is a Coupe as well. 2011 G37x Again, if you look at my post showing arrangements... you will see the sides don't line up in a straight angle like your photo shop... This was the intent of how I would install them... As Infiniti sells LED kits as 3 lights. Going straight as I did it looked better with 4. :-)


Can't wait for others to do the mod themselves who can make it look like your photo shop 3 at an angle... without having to cobble the job with a plate etc... might as well just bolt a prefab light on then.

 

Now you can see what I was up against with the hole pattern going angled... looks the best but hardest to accomplish. I was going to drill my grill as needed and place 3/8" washers behind the lights for a flat mounting surface. I even bought a 1/2" wide aluminum strip to paint black, mount the LED's perfectly spaced apart, and then would have to mount the plate to the grill. Positioning the LED's equal and straight is the CHALLENGE of this job. 1/8" off looks very bad. I spent 5 minutes plus on each LED centering them in the honeycomb holes, and I'm still off a bit on the right side inner being to low. I will loosen the nut and raise it to match from the bottom side, as I'm not removing the Rad cover anytime soon.

Your holes in your grill will work. Actually, they may work better than mine if your holes are smaller, you will have less wiggle up down left right in centering and aligning. Again, if the LED's are not near perfect alignment it looks really NON Factory... Hack mod

 

Anything more than 4 per side and you better wire an on / off switch as you will not be able to run them at night without blinding on coming traffic. They only dim 30% so they are still VERY bright at night. Again, I don't get flashed from in town driving so I'm very happy about that... but two rows of 4 per side and you wouldn't need headlights. :-) I have a LED dimmer I was going to wire inline to control the brightness if need be...


But the lights are inexpensive so have at it and make your G as bling as you want. I'm not sure now many lights the single control module is good for but more than 10 LED's and I would install one controller per side. I have 8 on one controller and so far so good. No heat at the lights or the controller.

 

Yes, I wired all the LED lights on each side together, and then both sides into a custom loom setup and then routed that directly to the battery where I mounted the controller. All explained in previous posts.
There are issues with Infiniti charging systems where the alternator varies output to save fuel... anywhere from 14.7 to 13.7 volts, at any time. Ridiculous pain in the butt. Research IPDM and you'll get an idea of the voltage variable control system... and how to disable it. I don't advise doing so, and will not tell you how. But I believe I just planted a seed for those who read this. Any how, when the IPDM kicks in your alternator drops to mid 13 volt range.
Why would this effect you? If your LED controller is voltage sensing = auto on/off type, then it will turn the LED's off when your voltage drops below 14 or whatever the auto on voltage threshold is on your controller. You could hard wire to a manual switch to power the LED's, or install a number of different relay configuration as an alternative... but that will require bringing wiring into the cabin, installing a switch, and knowing what the heck your doing with the proper relays to control the LED's for when you want them to turn on/off etc... You would lose the auto dimming mode I have when I turn my lights on. :-)

 

I appreciate the honest comments and suggestions from you think tank G enthusiasts. Yes, I AGREE it could have, would have, should have, turned out better per the photo shop pics, and the "next to the fog light" critics... :-)

So the challenge is on. I say GO for it. Take the plunge! Walk a 10 hour install day in my shoes. One up me on an OEM like install, and see if you can produce a better integrated LED light install... Then share your pics for the think tank G critics to decide.

 

how about I just connect LEDs directly to the battery? possible?

 

Probably, as long as it's fused and you have a switch.

Also, a question. We would wire each side together in parallel right? If in series, it would require 48V to power 4 lights right?

What's the amp draw on these? Could all the lights be wired together? Did the OP wire them as sides purely for the purposes of interfacing with the DRL controller he bought?

 

Yes, you can run them straight from the battery, but don't ground them at the battery. See the service manual warning. You can use your own switch to manually turn them on/off, or use a relay to have them work automatically. But getting them to dim when your lights on would be tricky if your not savvy with resistance and impedance. Or you could buy a 12 volt LED dimmer and manually set the brightness and leave it. Running them full bright at night is NOT advisable and you may get pulled over for blinding people.


I ran my left and right side together to make sense of 16 wire leads coming from the 8 lights. But they all connect to a single14 gauge positive and negative lead that goes to the LED controller at the battery. Watts is 3w x 8 bulbs = 24 watts. Amp draw of LED lights is minimal. I'm using the 2 amp fuse that came installed in the inline fuse on the controller. No issues. Not sure how many LED's the controller would run, but I have zero heat issues running 8.


You have to figure out the Infiniti IPDM system or a voltage sensing LED Controller like I used won't get enough volts to turn on the LED's all the time. Infiniti's vary from 13.5 to 14.7 volts to save gas. Sorry, but I can't help you there. Google it, research it, find an Infiniti mechanic. There is a bypass but you'll have to figure it out and be responsible for your own mods / install. Yet another hiccup that accounts for my all day install.


Good luck

 

Here's a few helpful pics of the honeycomb grill on my 2011 G37x coupe. Without drilling, getting the angled 3 light install per the photo shop would be tough. Not impossible, but tough to get them at the right angle and straight. Just saying.

 

Did you try any combinations where you had two rows of lights on top of each other?

 

That would likely be obnoxiously bright.

 

No. I bought 10 lights and only used 8. Any more than 8 and it would be too bright for legal street driving in my opinion. In my pics above at 100% bright (no car lights on) I am standing 5 feet above the car on my steps, otherwise, the camera can't even take the picture!


So far, with the auto dim I've had zero issues of oncoming traffic flashing me etc... as the light do aim straight forward enough not to blind anyone.


So I'm loving them and My G37x Coupe is a one of a kind in my area. :-)

Below is full bright pic vs 30% dim pics with lights on.




Why? Because I can!