Auto-X Rear Valence
10-27-2009, 09:12 AM
#61
A) This is a good place to start. If you had any problems or questions or anything like that...CALL THE VENDOR. Alex and everyone else is very willing and able to help (when you ask for it). There shouldn't be any kind of posting about problems at the very least until you've called/PM'd/texted/etc the person that made/sold it.
2) Saying it is $440 is somewhat misleading in that it sounded like you paid $440 to Autokits. If you paid $150 to paint it somewhere else that's fine but you DID make it sound like Autokits charged you $440 (which it obviously didn't).
D)
2) Saying it is $440 is somewhat misleading in that it sounded like you paid $440 to Autokits. If you paid $150 to paint it somewhere else that's fine but you DID make it sound like Autokits charged you $440 (which it obviously didn't).
D)
10-27-2009, 09:18 AM
#62
I got mine painted for 50 dollars. Nice having a friend who owns a shop.
But I had the same issues as you. It was simply an installiation issue. I will try to take some pics later. All I did was go to autozone and buy a roll of wider 3M double stick tape and go to my painter.
Here is the roll I bought. My painter already had the promoter spray.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...uestid=1060745
My Painters Steps
1. Clean the area well
2. Use alcohol whips to ensure all wax and contaminats are removed.
3. Warm the area with a heat gun
4. Apply a layer of adhesion promoter
5. Allow to set for 2 minutes
6. Center rear valance overlay and apply
7. Two people apply pressure (one on each side) for approx 2-3 minutes until firmly set
Mine fits perfect now.
But I had the same issues as you. It was simply an installiation issue. I will try to take some pics later. All I did was go to autozone and buy a roll of wider 3M double stick tape and go to my painter.
Here is the roll I bought. My painter already had the promoter spray.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...uestid=1060745
My Painters Steps
1. Clean the area well
2. Use alcohol whips to ensure all wax and contaminats are removed.
3. Warm the area with a heat gun
4. Apply a layer of adhesion promoter
5. Allow to set for 2 minutes
6. Center rear valance overlay and apply
7. Two people apply pressure (one on each side) for approx 2-3 minutes until firmly set
Mine fits perfect now.
Last edited by WhosUrBuddiee; 10-27-2009 at 09:24 AM.
10-27-2009, 12:44 PM
#63
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I will get my hands on digital camera and show you guys what it is that i am talking about later today.. I am also going to purchase the promoter, re-line the valence again with the 3m double side tape.
10-27-2009, 12:47 PM
#64
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I got mine painted for 50 dollars. Nice having a friend who owns a shop.
But I had the same issues as you. It was simply an installiation issue. I will try to take some pics later. All I did was go to autozone and buy a roll of wider 3M double stick tape and go to my painter.
Here is the roll I bought. My painter already had the promoter spray.
AutoZone.com | BodyMoldingTape | 1/2in.x15ft.MoldingTape
My Painters Steps
1. Clean the area well
2. Use alcohol whips to ensure all wax and contaminats are removed.
3. Warm the area with a heat gun
4. Apply a layer of adhesion promoter
5. Allow to set for 2 minutes
6. Center rear valance overlay and apply
7. Two people apply pressure (one on each side) for approx 2-3 minutes until firmly set
Mine fits perfect now.
But I had the same issues as you. It was simply an installiation issue. I will try to take some pics later. All I did was go to autozone and buy a roll of wider 3M double stick tape and go to my painter.
Here is the roll I bought. My painter already had the promoter spray.
AutoZone.com | BodyMoldingTape | 1/2in.x15ft.MoldingTape
My Painters Steps
1. Clean the area well
2. Use alcohol whips to ensure all wax and contaminats are removed.
3. Warm the area with a heat gun
4. Apply a layer of adhesion promoter
5. Allow to set for 2 minutes
6. Center rear valance overlay and apply
7. Two people apply pressure (one on each side) for approx 2-3 minutes until firmly set
Mine fits perfect now.
10-27-2009, 12:54 PM
#65
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A) This is a good place to start. If you had any problems or questions or anything like that...CALL THE VENDOR. Alex and everyone else is very willing and able to help (when you ask for it). There shouldn't be any kind of posting about problems at the very least until you've called/PM'd/texted/etc the person that made/sold it.
2) Saying it is $440 is somewhat misleading in that it sounded like you paid $440 to Autokits. If you paid $150 to paint it somewhere else that's fine but you DID make it sound like Autokits charged you $440 (which it obviously didn't).
D)
2) Saying it is $440 is somewhat misleading in that it sounded like you paid $440 to Autokits. If you paid $150 to paint it somewhere else that's fine but you DID make it sound like Autokits charged you $440 (which it obviously didn't).
D)
2) I didn't make it sound like anything. Its called reading. Instead of glancing over a post, read it in its entirety. Its total cost is 440 dollars I did make that clear. I did make another post elsewhere in a different thread recommending that auto-kits does the paint work.
3) Pictures will be up today.
Last edited by Bkdetailing; 10-27-2009 at 01:03 PM.
10-28-2009, 04:29 AM
#66
BK, sorry for your frustration. Correct me if I'm wrong but you purchased ALL fiberglass valence right? Do others have the same one or the partially CF one or the ALL CF valence?
I have sitting my garage a polyurethane mold of something thicker than the diffuser that can flex up to 90 degrees on 2 different axis. If you were to make that fit onto the car, it'd be a breeze. I have another piece made out of fiberglass (same shape, except thinner), that has no flex whatsoever, which means not-so-perfect fitment. Then a third piece of CF+resin/epoxy that has a decent amount of flexibility, enough to where it will fit on our car with care.
I am tossing the fiberglass out because in order for me to conform that 100% to my, say rear valence, I would need to make the mold of the valence area while the bumper is installed on the car since the fitment is a little bit different when the bumper is on the car. And even then, I wouldn't be surprised if some pieces don't fit quite right.
Fiberglass is tough to have true 100% fitment. You can be harsh and call it naive for buyers that expect 100% fitment, but you can also say it is tough to advertise a true 100% fitment when it comes to body parts.
What's my point? I'm not telling. But I will say that I will potentially have many CF parts for everybody (and something else).
Also, am I the only one or is no one else picking up the way Autokit responded to the OP? I understand the frustration from both sides (I've been through it too, believe me). But just thought it's interesting that it sounded as if the OP has done Autokit horribly wrong and autokit is the one making the complaints.
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I have sitting my garage a polyurethane mold of something thicker than the diffuser that can flex up to 90 degrees on 2 different axis. If you were to make that fit onto the car, it'd be a breeze. I have another piece made out of fiberglass (same shape, except thinner), that has no flex whatsoever, which means not-so-perfect fitment. Then a third piece of CF+resin/epoxy that has a decent amount of flexibility, enough to where it will fit on our car with care.
I am tossing the fiberglass out because in order for me to conform that 100% to my, say rear valence, I would need to make the mold of the valence area while the bumper is installed on the car since the fitment is a little bit different when the bumper is on the car. And even then, I wouldn't be surprised if some pieces don't fit quite right.
Fiberglass is tough to have true 100% fitment. You can be harsh and call it naive for buyers that expect 100% fitment, but you can also say it is tough to advertise a true 100% fitment when it comes to body parts.
What's my point? I'm not telling. But I will say that I will potentially have many CF parts for everybody (and something else).
Also, am I the only one or is no one else picking up the way Autokit responded to the OP? I understand the frustration from both sides (I've been through it too, believe me). But just thought it's interesting that it sounded as if the OP has done Autokit horribly wrong and autokit is the one making the complaints.
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