Chaoz

Hey everybody,

I've got a strange problem with my 09 G37 Sedan (NAV). I tried to switch the head unit with an Android device (small one, not Tesla-Style). It was working but I didn't get any sound so I switched back to the OEM system. Since then my A/C stopped working. The A/C button lights up, when you press it but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing only hot air. I checked the fuses and even had it checked for R134a leaking with no problems found. Is it possible that the Android unit some kind of damaged my AC Amp or something? Strange thing is, that everything else is working so I don't think that I've switched any plugs when going back to OEM.

I read that you need to have the A/C button activated when replugging the control unit on G35s. Does this also apply to the G37?

Thanks for your help, I'm kinda lost.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I am not familiar with the older G35's so I do not know what "activation" you are referring to. However, there is no "reset" for the 37.

Did you make sure the AC AMP connectors are in their right location (see here)? It is very easy to mix those connectors up as they are identical to some of the connectors for the headunit. Double check your work. Then, run the IPDM/er test (see here) as this will tell us if the compressor clutch is good.

If you have a good scan tool you can try checking for any codes. There is also a self-diagnostic for the HVC system but I will refrain from "going there" until we eliminate the common issues first.

Another member is having a issue installing his eBay Android unit resulting in a dead car. These damn things are going to be more of a issue than they're worth (side rant).

Report back and we'll go from there.

Chaoz

So here I am again with the results:

- I checked all connectors -> they are in the right place and fully inserted, no bent pins
- I ran the IPDM/er test -> The clutch is working

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

If the compressor clutch is clicking, that indicates that everything from the IPDM/er is working (relays, wiring, etc.). Based on that, the issue is either with the amp or the preset switch panel (the clock one). The signal from either component is not sending the cut-in signal to the compressor (via IPDM/er). Does the center screen display any HVAC info (temp, fan speed, etc.)?

You can try downloading the HAC (Heating & AIr Comditioning) section of the FSM (here) for your car and read up on the self-diagnostic system. Aside from that, there is no telling what the aftermarket unit may have "damaged."

Chaoz

The screen does show all HVAC info even "A/C on" and "A/C off". So it's possibly the amp? As far as I know the amp does not need to be "programmed" and should be plug & pray. Can I buy a used amp somewhere? Does it have to match my system (Bose with Nav) or are they all the same?

Edit:
I looked for part numbers, mine is 27760 JU60A.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

The amp does not need to be programmed. Simple plug-and-play. Try to match your p/n but as long as you get a amp from a Sedan you should be ok.

I would still try diagnosing the amp first. Throwing parts at a problem can become a very expensive black hole especially if the issue is a broken or pinched wire or something else entirely.

Chaoz

Thank you for your help! I will sort that out and will post here if my A/C works again if anyone has the same problem. Could take me some days though because if I have to order parts shipping from overseas is a pain in the *** these days.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

@Chaoz, Out of curiosity, this "Android Unit" you bought, did you ensure that this unit was for EUC-spec cars (Europe)? There are some minor wiring differences between all global variants and I am wondering if the unit you bought was for US models and might have shorted something out.

Just thinking out loud. Lots of luck to you.

Chaoz

No, it was not especially for EUC Infinities which probably means it was made for US models. I didn't know there are different wirings but as I was looking for a replacement amp it seems like I really need to match the part number from the old amp because it's the only one which is listed under EUC-spec and seems to be still produced for that models.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I would estimate that 98% of the wiring is the same across the board. But there are slight differences to accommodate for local and regional requirements/ features/ etc.

Match your existing p/n if you can. If you are forced to buy a new unit be sure to check that p/n against your specific VIN (or frame number as it's sometimes referred to).

I just checked and "JU60A" is for EURC & RUS regions. It stands to reason that the Android radio thing is the culprit.

I also found this for sale on EBay. I have purchased from that seller many times and never had any issues.

Chaoz

Yes that seller from Israel is the only one offering two JU60A right now on EBay and I will buy from him when I did some last checks on the amp

SkysG37

Double check the cabin air sensor (at the driver's right knee in a lefty) it's easy to accidentally unplug.I was having the same symptoms until I plugged mine back in.

Chaoz

Thanks I checked that already. I spoke to my Infiniti Garage and they think it might be some kind of "fresh air sensor" which is about 80$ but because it's hard to replace they would charge me something like 800(!)$ without guarantee that the A/C is working again afterwards. So long story short I ordered the A/C amp on Ebay and if this will not work, I will try to replace this fresh air sensor by myself.

Edit:
I did some research and it's probably this part: 27723-AG000 . Bad news is that it's really hard to replace. Infiniti will take the whole dashboard appart and even if you don't you'll have to take out the blower motor and work a few hours with you head upside down.

Chaoz

So here I am again and my A/C is fixed! It was indeed the evap sensor (27723-AG000). If you want to replace it you don't have to remove the dashboard it is (somewhat) accessible through the passengers footwell, you only need to take out the blower motor and the glove box.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the update. I am glad that it was a relatively inexpensive fix. I wonder if the sensor was going bad on its own or if the Android radio thing caused the sensor to fail. Probably will never know for sure.... either way, thanks again!