iCrap

iTrader: (8)

So, my alternator died a few weeks back and I replaced it with a WAI GLOBAL 11340N, which claimed to be the correct Mitsubishi; 150A part.

Now my car has a strange voltage fluctuation at idle, with the voltage going from 13.5 to 14.5 volts, and the lights pulsating to match. Also important to note it only does this sometimes, other times it's totally fine. And when it does it I can sometimes get it to stop by dropping it in neutral, giving it a bit of gas and then letting off.

Here's a video of the issue. if you turn up the volume you'll also hear the engine pulsating with the lights


Any ideas? makes me think I have a dud alternator.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Is this a new or remanufactured unit?
Did you perform a ripple test?

Usually whenever lights "flicker" this is a symptom of the rectifier bridge giving out. This bridge (I think Nissan calls it the "Integrated Regulator Assembly") is what converts the initial AC voltage the alternator produces to a DC voltage that the car can use. The ripple test will verify if any of the AC voltage is being passed through to the battery. Remember, AC refers to "alternating current" and as the current continually changes direction, this pulsation is the "flicker" you are seeing.

I assume you do not have the old alternator as I would have suggested you do a visual of the two pulley's. If the new pulley diameter is slightly larger, the rotor shaft will not spin as fast. This would be another reason why when you "blip" the idle the issue goes away, briefly.

Either way, I think your assessment that you have a "dud" is likely correct. Being less than a month old I am sure you can return/ replace without issue.

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

The claim its new, but who knows. Did not perform a ripple test, I should do that.
I also do have the old alternator still, since rockauto doesn't require a core for some strange reason. I will compare the pulley diameters.


Considering how much work it was to get that thing out, this really sucks.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

ICrap, I am just curious if there were any updates to this issue?

(side note: hope you fared well during recent storms in that area).

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

Storms were brutal, luckily no damage here but just up the street massive trees fell.

New alternator is sitting here, can't put it in this weekend but that's my plan for next weekend.

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

So started this today, and I broke the clip connector in the process, dammit. So I ordered this, . Comes tomorrow. I read mixed things on soldering / vs crimping for engine bay wiring. Some people say soldering will crack and break with heat cycles and vibration. Thoughts? I usually just solder everything.

Sidenote. This job is SO MUCH EASIER if you remove the power steering pump. Wow. I got the alternator out in under 15 minutes.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I am biased because I have the soldering skills of a wombat. However, old school "rule of thumb" is to always crimp any wiring connections that will be in the engine bay or any area where the connection can be exposed to high heat (like exhaust sensors, etc.). Over time the solder will fail due to degradation and, depending on the solder used, crystallization. Repeated heat cycles will accelerate this process.

I would strongly recommend you crimp the connections with some butt splices and wrap the repair in heat shrink tubing. That should last the entire life of the car. That is what I would do but, again, I am biased. All of my electric-based mods have been spliced- and there are many...

RA081224

+1
Although I haven't seen soldering done by a wombat so I can't make a call on that, in this case I agree that "old school" is best. The main problem with solder in high heat environments is the usually the use of Tin/Lead (or lead substitutes) in the soldering wire which typically cannot withstand temps above 350F - 380F. Adding vibration to the mix adds to the failure mechanism. Unless you have the tooling and capability to solder with more heat resistant compounds, stick to the heavy-duty double crimp method to join wires.

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

Crimping it is then, I have the type like these: so i'll just crimp and heatshrink.

BULL

Little trick I learned after I found their non insulated brothers is to grab that crimp and melt the insulation enough to slide the barrel out.
No matter how you try an insulated barrel crimp will always be more bulky. By taking out the insulation you can make a better crimp by actually crimping the metal towards the conductors.
After, slide some black heatshrink, not only you can now confirm that the crimp is solid but it looks way better and less bulkier and can even accept more shrink as you insulate the entire branch.

Soldering is fine as well, a proper installer will make sure the junctions are properly united, that they also are in the lowest of vibration of areas and that it looks good, the areas where solder struggles is with thicker wiring.

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

Sounds good, i'll crimp and heatshrink. I'm just worried about that connection failing and if it does it'll be a massive PITA to get back in there without removing the PS pump again.

BULL

By removing the hard plastic insulation from the crimp lowers the chances of failure, you can also do the "tug/pull" test afterwards.
After this is done and covered the only failure will come from the connector brittling again however it will take YEEEAARS for that.
I believe you're more than capable of this.

Granted, unless you have any power steering leak issues this will be fine.

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

well, yay. car fixed. Crimped & heatshrinked & electrical taped for good measure. no more voltage spikes, at least not yet.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Finally, some good news for once! Thanks for the update.

rbee6325

Wait so did you end up using another wai alternator from rock auto? I’m having the exact same issue and have a good feeling it’s because the previous owner put a rebuilt autozone alternator