I can’t confirm yet but I don’t think it’s that simple.

When I turn off traction with the OEM switch a light turns on on the dash. Normal.

When I bypass the yaw-sensor via my current DIY switch a different light illuminates on the dash.

Replacing the OEM switch might leave you with traction partially off at all times.

 

Which one? Take a pic.

 

PM’ed, @BULL

 

So I'm slowly finding out many trims are affected differently by the YAW bypass.
Looks like on X models it will turn them into a fully open diff.
Infiniti uses the YAW to give the vehicle a type of "electrical LSD" by braking slowly the tire that has the most torque to provide traction on both tires however when going too fast into a corner this same system will interfere by throttling down if it thinks its going into chaos.

So far 6mt owners dont seem to suffer much from this being that it would leave it would hand the responsibility to the diff alone.
It seems like the YAW bypass might be more beneficial to 6mt at the moment but more research is needed.

Any other automatics that can chime in if they've ever installed a DIY bypass and share your experiences.
My test vehicle is a RWD 4WAS vehicle so I cannot disregard the YAW could interfere/help my car and give me completely different results.

 

6MT owners get all the really cool toys. This is the way.

 

I have spoken.

 

T/C is more fixated towards wheel spin.reasons to turn off maybe stuck in mud,grass,ice ex:

yaw is more of g force that's why it is in center of vehicle.should oversee wheel spin,steering angle gas pedal position and angle of vehicle through g force.

In theory sounds great to turn off to go crazy but as stated going to fast into a turn at high speeds (under steer ) yaw can brake front brakes to control the issue. As wheels turn at different speeds on turns.

Trying to keep this short as possible so in theory no YAW, good for drifting and very bad for drag racing where only wheel spin in needed.
YAW can sense car wheel spin going straight (T/C disabled) and if it goes sideways straight for the wall it can try to correct itself.

Yaw keeps car straight when T/C off on bad roads conditions meaning bumps,dips,and even potholes at high speeds.

So yea I would keep both switches as one controls some components and the the yaw oversees everything. Dont need to be in drift mode all the time. Just be aware of the course your on and what is needed to stay safe as possible.

 

This is just anecdotal and not backed by hard data (dyno runs/trap times) but it seems like my 6MT has more power in the lower powerband when traction control is off - either with the oem switch or my power-cut-to-sensor switch.

And honestly, with the sensor completely off the car isn't any more badly behaved than otherwise. (me, on the other hand...). Even in cold/wet/borderline icy conditions - although I drove cautiously that day (as I would WITH TC) the car didn't feel any more squirrelly.

 

A long time ago SOHO made a post on their G test car. They discovered that during dyno runs they had to disable the YAW and upon doing so they gained about 5% power.

 

That tracks. Good info Bull - you're really batting for the fences these days.

 

Received my switch on Saturday, I'll try to install it sometime soon however won't get to test it out until the salt clears.

 

15+ HP just from disabling the yaw sensor? If this were true, wouldn't this be common practice in the G/Z world for the last 15 years? I mean, if I can put down 15+ more horsepower in a straight line, achieved by a $45 bypass switched, well that would be amazing. Not for nothing but isn't "a long time ago someone did something" the very definition of hearsay?

I get the whole "drift switch" motivation, people want to drift. So I'm wondering what's the motivation here for the daily driver? I also relate to the idea of turning off TC in certain situations, like a hard launch out of the hole, or maintaining power throughout an Auto-X event. But if the yaw sensor is helping you maintain a straight line out of the hole, and keep you from drifting uncontrollably during Auto-X (because drifting is slow), I don't think I'd want to disable it.

I'm expecting there might be another Auto-X event in my future this year, and I'm wondering what would happen with this switch.

 

It was a bit of news to me to have read that. The test was done in the dyno so something tells me that this gain might have been from hold from not having the front wheels turning.
This info was really old as well so i'm still a bit skeptical.
Technically the sensor on traction off will provide the best acceleration with the best possible grip. If you pay attention to tire marks of a regular G as it's accelerating with just traction off you see chattery lines from the ABS pulsing your brakes to keep both wheels at the same speed and try to obtain some type of traction
With the sensor off you should see no ABS interfering and though with the system enabled or not you can maintain a straight line when tires/wheels/trans/power level changes these controls struggle a bit, sometimes interfering when they really didnt need to.

Example: Going hard into a corner (3rd) and keeping as much momentum as possible, as you try to throttle out of the turn this power slide will be halted by the car's YAW when in reality you could have throttled yourself out of the turn kept the powerband where it needed to be and leave that situation until the next turn.
Being that the interfering lasts about 1-3 seconds this would hinder your progress on a lap. On a daily driver? Still trying to compile a list.

 

That's a fair discussion for course tracks and people who hit highway ramps as fast as their car can possibly do it without spinning off into the guardrails.

But what about the considerations of an Auto-X event, where you never leave second gear?

 

@2.2Lude maybe you can chime in since you've had a DIY Yaw bypass before mines.

What has been your experience at lower speed tracks with the switch on/off