ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Physically? Not without some serious Frankensteining modifications.

Electronically? While not plug-and-play, the basic wiring is nearly identical.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I thought the coupe mounting hole placement was much more similar than the sedans (which is dramatically off).

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Vastly different. The Q50 (V37) mirrors still mount to the corner assembly just like the G37 (V36):

On the Q60 Coupe (CV37) the mirrors are mounted to the door itself, NOT the corner piece:

Entirely different setup/ design.

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

Oh wow. So the folks at InfinitiQ50.org are full of it.

On the other hand - if the corner filler panel was readily adaptable to the G37 door (coupe or sedan) the door skin mount mirror would be WAY easier to retrofit, even considering you'd want a backer plate inside the door.

RANDY350Z

Is it #1 or #2 grommet?

Is it #1 or #2 grommet? Thanks!!
s also a similar grommet. On the driver side but that one can be difficult to access.[/QUOTE]

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I used #1.

Still not super happy about having to pierce a vertical grommet from a weather-tight perspective, but it is what it is. Siliconed the snot out of it.

RA081224

Its the number 1 grommet. I do not recommend cutting the rubber though. If you remove the sticky tape and slowly (carefully) work an enlargement tool (successively larger screwdrivers) into the opening of the rubber sleeve. Eventually you can enlarge the opening enough to accommodate a fairly large wire (tube, whatever). I passed a #3/0 power cable through mine with no issues. When the wire is removed, the grommet will return to about 70% of its original size and it will still be whole...plus it looks a helluva lot better

RANDY350Z

Cool. Thanks! I will go under it and tape around for a seal.

RANDY350Z

awesome, thanks!

BULL

I agree with this 100%. Cutting the grommet will lead to leaks unless the proper steps are taken to weatherproof it which often looks bad.
Removing the tape though scary is the proper way to "Fish" wire into the car.

RA081224

The original install wasn't too bad. The sticky tape wrapped around everything does make a mess when removed though. Squirt a little wire lube over the harness prior to inserting it through the grommet and work slow. Over the past two weeks I've been taking the audio system apart fixing loose connections and diagnosing a failed sub-woofer amp and I revisited the main power wire install. Although the "lube" gel I put on the power cable has long since dried up, it still wiggles and moves a bit in the grommet. The rubber is still pliable and returns to the size of the cable bundle. The bonus is you can only determine an aftermarket stereo install if you remove the plastic trim around the battery