New Battery - 2011 G37x Sedan
#1
New Battery - 2011 G37x Sedan
My (5 year) Optima red top battery died and I replaced it with a Duralast Gold battery 640cca, started fine. Four days later I went to start it and the battery was discharged to the point of hearing multiple clicks but not enough to start it. I performed a parasitic drain test and I'm draining 720ma which seems high to me.
What is a typical baseline in ma I should be drawing? Everything that is electronic is stock from the factory. The alternator is fine. I charged the battery and reading 12.5 volts engine off and 13.8 volts engine on. Some typical ideas of what to look for before I start removing fuses would be great.
Thanks,
Bill
What is a typical baseline in ma I should be drawing? Everything that is electronic is stock from the factory. The alternator is fine. I charged the battery and reading 12.5 volts engine off and 13.8 volts engine on. Some typical ideas of what to look for before I start removing fuses would be great.
Thanks,
Bill
#2
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
A general baseline for parasitic draw on these cars is ≈30-40mA after the car "goes into deep sleep (usually after 30min. or so). If you're pulling 720mA then something is seriously wrong.
Earlier models had a faulty emissions valve that required replacement and a ECU reflash, but that was resolved early on and "shouldn't" affect your 2011.
If you have not made any changes to the car (bulbs, accessories, etc.) then the only thing you can do is start pulling fuses to identify the suspect circuit. Once identified, then we can investigate items on that circuit.
Earlier models had a faulty emissions valve that required replacement and a ECU reflash, but that was resolved early on and "shouldn't" affect your 2011.
If you have not made any changes to the car (bulbs, accessories, etc.) then the only thing you can do is start pulling fuses to identify the suspect circuit. Once identified, then we can investigate items on that circuit.
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WTN (06-05-2021)
#4
Interesting, I would set up my meter and read 720ma from it but after 15 - 17 seconds later it dropped to 26 - 30ma sustained as I began to check the fuses. Thought my meter connections were having an issue. Tried another meter and same results. Initially there is high current draw when a connection is made followed by a drop. I believe and hope that I'm actually ok at this point and need to try another battery.
#5
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Sounds normal to me. Once you turn the engine off, it takes a few seconds for everything to "power down." The largest draw is the RAP (Retained Power) circuit. This is the system that allows you to close the windows for those few seconds after you shut the car off. After 30 seconds everything should stabilize, after 30 min. the car should be sound asleep.
If, after 30min. or so your amp draw remains low- 25-30mA (perfectly normal), then you're good.
If, after 30min. or so your amp draw remains low- 25-30mA (perfectly normal), then you're good.
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10-14-2016 04:57 PM