Is a 1000 Watt RMS amp pushing it?
#1
Is a 1000 Watt RMS amp pushing it?
Im thinking about getting a Sundown SA-12 with a 1000 Watt RMS amp but im not sure if that will cause electrical problems.
Will I need to upgrade my alternator? or will I be good?
Will I need to upgrade my alternator? or will I be good?
#6
Forgive my ignorance but how can this even be possible? 1000w at 12V is almost 90A of current. That's like an engine-starting power. I don't see how a normal car's electrical system could deal with that kind of a draw. I know it would rarely be pulling all that juice, and that's where caps come in, but can this actually be done? Seems crazy.
I won't ask about the hearing consequences (yes I am extremely old).
I won't ask about the hearing consequences (yes I am extremely old).
#7
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Hearing loss is inconsequential..
I fail to see the significance of speaker impedance. Be it 1/2/4Ω. If the system as a whole is consuming 1000 watts, it's 1000 watts regardless of the load. I vaguely recall reading a spec of 150A for the stock alternator, so if you'll be driving that much speaker, more batteries/caps will be needed. I also recommend some of these - .
I fail to see the significance of speaker impedance. Be it 1/2/4Ω. If the system as a whole is consuming 1000 watts, it's 1000 watts regardless of the load. I vaguely recall reading a spec of 150A for the stock alternator, so if you'll be driving that much speaker, more batteries/caps will be needed. I also recommend some of these - .
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#9
Registered Member
Great question!
With so many variables it's difficult to provide an accurate answer.
Primary question is which amplifier? Not only are there 1k amps that actually produce 1k (or more), there are amps that are overrated and don't produce anywhere near that amount of power. Additionally, the type of amplifier makes a difference as Class D amplifiers, due to their efficiency, draw significantly less power than a comparable Class AB.
Williston Audio Labs tests an 1,100 watt amp that only draws 28 amp (produces <200 watts)
A JL Audio 1k producing 1,200 watts at 115 amps.
For comparison an old school Rockford Fosgate will pull closer to 200 amps at 1,000 watts.
My recommendation? Determine how much current your amplifier is rated to draw at 1 ohm using both the manufacturer's specs and finding a benchmark online to compare. 115 amps is quite a draw and you'll need to ensure you have adequate power and ground cable and you'll need to beef up your charging system with the "big 3" (upgraded power and grounds in engine compartment).
-Eric
Here's a recommendation from Zapco:
With so many variables it's difficult to provide an accurate answer.
Primary question is which amplifier? Not only are there 1k amps that actually produce 1k (or more), there are amps that are overrated and don't produce anywhere near that amount of power. Additionally, the type of amplifier makes a difference as Class D amplifiers, due to their efficiency, draw significantly less power than a comparable Class AB.
Williston Audio Labs tests an 1,100 watt amp that only draws 28 amp (produces <200 watts)
A JL Audio 1k producing 1,200 watts at 115 amps.
For comparison an old school Rockford Fosgate will pull closer to 200 amps at 1,000 watts.
My recommendation? Determine how much current your amplifier is rated to draw at 1 ohm using both the manufacturer's specs and finding a benchmark online to compare. 115 amps is quite a draw and you'll need to ensure you have adequate power and ground cable and you'll need to beef up your charging system with the "big 3" (upgraded power and grounds in engine compartment).
-Eric
Here's a recommendation from Zapco:
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RA081224 (02-10-2020)
#10
Good luck on your build...This MyG37 thread comes to mind: https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...-overhaul.html/
#11
Registered Member
A capacitor is a hindrance and not a help. It literally adds MORE strain to your charging system. The only way to properly fix dimming lights is to upgrade wiring, or upgrade the alternator.
#12
Plenty of car audio professionals will say what I said. Instead of a jolt of power going to the amp for those quick deep bass notes it’ll get it from the cap. This will cause less major draw from the battery that could lower the overall voltage and cause lights to dim. Millions of people use these because they do indeed help, when installed and used correctly. Not saying that a second battery, upgraded wiring, upgraded battery, and upgraded alternator is a bad idea but overkill for OP’s setup. To each their own.
#13
Registered Member
There are plenty of articles out there showing proof that they are in fact a hindrance and not a help. They are a "second battery" and do nothing, but put more load on the alternator. The car's battery is pretty much only used to start the car. Once it's started the alternator keeps it running. If the alternator has to now keep a second battery charged it's putting MORE strain on your charging system. While it may seem to reduce flickering, because now the amp is relying on the capacitor first, it is not helping the situation. This is because the amp is now draining the capacitor and now it needs charged to keep up demand putting more strain on your alternator.
And the "car audio professionals" you speak about are just trying to sell you something. There are also car performance professionals who say that a drop in filter or 3 prong spark plugs adds 20 hp. It doesn't make them right.
EDIT:
Here is a good article pointing out everything I have said in much more detail
https://axleaddict.com/cars/Car-Audi...They-DONT-Work
And the "car audio professionals" you speak about are just trying to sell you something. There are also car performance professionals who say that a drop in filter or 3 prong spark plugs adds 20 hp. It doesn't make them right.
EDIT:
Here is a good article pointing out everything I have said in much more detail
https://axleaddict.com/cars/Car-Audi...They-DONT-Work
Last edited by stealthee; 01-25-2020 at 05:21 PM.
#14
I've run multiple cars same setup jl 10w7 with 1000/1 at 40% gain with 0 guage power setup with never an issue or needing bigger alternator and I always change OEM battery after with optima red top
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llebcire (01-28-2020)
#15
Registered Member
I would install your sub and amp first. Then see if you get any light dimming, voltage drop, or other problems. Like other people have said, amps are often overrated. I've run larger amps on 4 gauge wire with no other upgrade and have seem almost no voltage drop at full tilt. This is something you can do in steps, no need to go overboard at the very beginning.
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llebcire (01-28-2020)