Flymotives88

Ready to get my sound system
Im busting my brain trying to figure out the best setup
So far im thinkin

SEDAN '13 G37X BOSE

Big 3 upgrade

Dash
3.5 inch coaxial

Front doors
Replace Tweeters
Replace 3.5 inch with coaxial mids or reg 3.5 mid
Now is the bottom a 10inch or 6.5, should I do a shallow sub or 6.5 components, or deep mids or?
If I go with the 3.5 coaxial would that be too many tweeters up front?

Rear door
6.5 inch components

Rear deck
10 inch mid something else or nothing?

Trunk
2 10inch subs

Thinkin of going all SKAR or?

Amps
Is something im not sure on how many and what power

Im not an audio head lol my ideas can be totally **** so........

ZombiAlpacalips

I'm doing the same thing and going with all Skar stuff. I just installed two sdr 10s and a rp1200 amp. Next is the interior speakers. But I'm not messing with the factory sub and center channel. I figure upgrading everything else and having 10s in the trunk will be just fine.

ZombiAlpacalips

Ad for the amps. rp1200 for the subs if you go with the Sdrs.
I haven't done much research on their 4 ch amps yet. but I'm just going to figure up the wattage of all of the skar stuff and match it with one of their appreciate amps. Probably going to use 2 channels for the 4 6.5s and the other 2 of the tweeters. I'd considered getting two 4ch amps, but that's way more power being pulled that I like. I don't want to kill the alternator.

RA081224

Keep in mind a few things:

1. Active crossover's provide a greater level of control over the sound of a system than passive crossovers. However, if your using coaxial speakers, you will have to plan your system around the passive filtration used in the coaxial. This is why I don't like coaxial drivers.
2. If you opt for active crossovers in a multi-amp system, you will have to feed additional speaker wires through the chassis molex connectors in each door. Im not sure of the specifics on a 2013 but it was a moderate P.I.T.A. in my 2008 so I'm sure its no better in yours. This is required if you choose to have a tweeter amp, a mid amp and a door woofer amp as the existing wiring only accommodates a single channel to each door
3. If you choose passive crossovers, I would recommend building your own as stock crossovers are only designed to be used with the speaker they are sold with and seldom play nicely across brands
4. Decide up front what level of accuracy, sound quality, power and stealth you can live with/afford. More customizability requires more amps, more wiring, more install hassle and a lot more expense
5. Several members have questioned the necessity for speakers on the rear package shelf. I use them as it helps add volume and fullness to the system but IMHO it requires a processor to align the time delays on all the drivers especially if some are behind you
6. Power is subjective but again IMHO more is better even if you don't play your music loud. An underpowered noisy amp will blow speakers far sooner than an overpowered high quality amp. I have two Rockford Fosgate Power T1-10's in my trunk in custom fiberglass pods. Feeding them is roughly 800W at 2Ohms Let your ears be your guide though
7. The Bose system in my car has five pairs of stereo speakers (3 pairs in each door, one pair in the rear seat and one pair on the package shelf) a subwoofer and a center speaker in the dash. Therefore, I have a subwoofer amp (two channel bridged), a four channel amp for the mids and tweeters in the doors, another four channel for the mids in the rear seat and the rear package shelf and a four channel for the woofers in the door and the center dash channel (one channel unused)
8. Unless you want your system to be a target for thieves I recommend you employ some stealth in where you put your amps so they cannot be seen from the exterior of the car. #7 and #8 work against each other here as the G has limited places to hid the hardware.

Good luck

Flymotives88

thanks bud,
so I have all my speakers in no coaxial speakers

FRONT DOORS
8inch Mids 350watt 175rms each
3inch mids 40watts
tweeters 120watts 30rms each with Crossovers

REAR
6.5inch 300watt 150rms each
with Tweeters 120watt 30rms each with Crossovers

Trunk
2 10’s 800watt 400rms (pair)

So I’m thinking of running a 1 channel amp for the subs
A separate Amp for the interior not sure how many channels? Would 6 or 8 be enough
also I’m getting a LC8i should I run my tweeters off the LC8i? And keep the crossovers for the tweeters
Can I run both amps to this as well? And just run my speakers from the amps?
I would like to get a DSP but it’s more money, if I do how many channels should I have on the DSP

RA081224

I'm not familiar with the LC8i but from the literature it seems like a necessary or at least good idea. The signals out of the stock head unit are balanced. The signals are already line level but they do not play well with an un-balanced hookup to an amp. I used the Rockford Fosgate 360 which accepts balanced inputs; I assume the LC8i is the same. If you want to keep a 100% active crossover/timing and frequency controlled system, you will need one channel for each pair of speakers you want to drive; from the drivers you've selected, this would be 6, stereo channels. Since your door tweeters and your rear tweeters are the same size and power ratings, you could get away with five discrete channels but you will no volume control between the two sets of tweeters. . A hybrid active/passive system would be cheaper but harder to design/build and tune. This was my final solution since I only had 8 stereo channels available. I designed and built a custom crossover for each door given the specific drivers I had chosen; then duplicated this effort for the drivers in the rear seat/package shelf. The subs are driven off a single monoblock amp. I prefer to drive the tweeters off the processor as it gives me much more control over the frequency crossover and volume levels. I do this mainly because my ears are sensitive to certain high frequency sounds and I can more easily compensate for this with a DSP. However, if your tweeters have their own amp, you can get around this by managing the amp sensitivity. As for how many amps and how many channels, you need to determine if you want an open amp rack or a hidden system. This will determine how much space you have to work with and hence how many amps you can accommodate. I have three amps under the plastic trunk floor partition in my coupe. You can't tell the car has anything in it but stock components. I could conceivably squeeze one, possibly two more in the space but would likely have some heat issues. Multi-channel amps are typically more efficient on space utilization, but I've heard more than once that multi channel amps will exhibit channel starvation issues when played at the bleeding edge of their capabilities due to the shared power supply.