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From the headrest, the harness runs down through the seat to the floor. The harness then runs under the carpet to the kickpanel where it joins the main harness to the trunk.
Unless the tech took the whole seat apart and disconnected all of the floor connectors for the seat to diagnose/repair your issue, only then could the speakers be affected.
However, as each seat has it's own speaker harness- and being BOTH sides are affected- this points to the amp. I could see one side being out, but both?
There is nothing in the center console that would affect the headrest speakers.
The RED/GREEN flag denotes that the connection is either good or bad. The connection might be good, but that does not mean the amp is sending the signals. Were there any codes listed in the ERROR HISTORY?
Each speaker has it's own circuit. Just because one is out has no effect on the others.
I would take the car back and have them recheck everything yet again. I admit that it has to be something the tech did and not the amp (as I am not a fan of coincidences).
Thanks-that's what I plan to do tomorrow morning. I asked him to fix the heated/cooled switch on the passengers side, and he removed the door panel on the drivers side to replace the aluminum trim on the door. I doubt a plug in for a speaker would even be included in that harness, and you confirmed that ILM-NC (thank you). Two other plugs I'm trying to rule out. One is the top. The top switch sends a signal to the audio pilot system and amp letting it know the top is down to adjust for sound. When I got in the car, the top was making a beeping sound like it wasn't open/closed all the way. So I ran a cycle for the top and that went away. I dismissed it for him accidentally pushing the top button when he put the middle console back together.
I've checked all the fuses-good. Opened the middle console where he did work and verified no plugs are left unplugged. Ran the speaker diagnostics-good. AMP is green on the diagnostics which to me, means good. All others that have had problems with the amp have noted (mainly in coupes) that several groups of speakers are out, like all front or all back, not just headrests. All OTHER speakers work great, which to me rules out the amp. How could the amp be mysteriously "bad" after this visit but all other speakers work great? One amp powers all these speakers, and in my experience with Nissan/Infiniti Bose products if you have an amp problem it usually (typically) shows up in all speakers. I could be wrong on that. ****Just noticed that each seat has a microphone that sends a signal to the audiopilot which determines to adjust for wind noise. Perhaps one of those got unplugged, un-linking the audio pilot from the amp? Also with the top sensor, perhaps there's another plug I missed in the middle console (didn't remove the whole thing, just lifted it enough over the shifter boot to peak with a light-and all "appeared" to look good.
I'm dreading taking this as well as my heated/cooled seat issue to dealer. I've got 30k miles and out of warranty for a 2014 and I'm sure they are going to say I need a new amp, when I probably don't and a new power control module for the cooled seat which I also probably don't. As everyone knows, dealers just replace parts, they don't fix unsoldered wires or broken connectors, etc. It's just straight to the $1,000 part to fix. LOL.
So it appears that if the DTC self-diagnosis is working properly, it would pick up a short or some sort of problem between the amp and the headrest speakers-If I'm reading this correctly?
1. Only the D/S headrest has the Audiopilot microphone. Same harness.
2. What raises my issue with the amp being the potential problem is that BOTH headrests are affected. Each headrest has it's own separate harness hardwired DIRECTLY to the Amp- no branches or hidden connections. Even if one side was disconnected, this has no effect on the other side.
3. I interpret the DTC's as a short or break in the circuit throwing the code, not that the amp is not sending the signal.
4. Checking the FSM I can not find anything that would cause both headrests to go dead. Unless there is a hidden setting like a "mute" function, for both sides to be out leads me, again, to the amp.
EDIT: DID THE TECH REMOVE THE SEAT(S) FROM THE CAR OR DO YOU KNOW OF THEY DISCONNECTED THE HARNESSES UNDER THE SEAT? I ask because there is a possibility that the connectors for the headrest speaker and the climate control seat control unit may be the mixed up.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 09-15-2019 at 03:36 PM.
Ok so the car is back at my independent shop...had to tread lightly with these guys because they are like family I've known them forever and they have done so much work for me and my family. Learned a long time ago with mechanics, plumbers, electricians, landscapers and your barber not to call their baby (their work) ugly!
So...he and I ran the speaker test and self diagnostics together, I showed him what I found. Also showed him no sound coming out of the speakers. We played with the setting for Bose Audio Pilot and the surround sound volume. He believes our amps are four channel amps in the verts and PERHAPS a channel is out or disconnected, but when I showed him the DTC he agreed that it might show red instead of green if that was the case. We talked about the fuses, he will recheck those.
We talked about the door panel and perhaps some plug was not plugged in when he removed to the front left door that connects the system to the headrests (I cannot confirm because we have limited info on the vert's wiring harness for the bose audio pilot system). We talked about the middle console panel and how there is only five plugs there...two seat climate control plugs, the ashtray and the light for the shift selector and the convertible top switch.
He did say he had to remove the negative battery terminal to take the door planet and airbags off to replace the trim. He agrees this is very strange "coincidence" that there is no power to the speakers.
I shared with him the U1908 and U1909 codes and he has a universal Modis or Ethos Snap-On Tools reader to find that out.
More to come...just dropped off with him a few hours ago. Thanks for all your help. And NO- he did not remove the seats. All he did was move the seats all the way back and forward to see even if he could get to the harness or fan/module for the p/s climate control system. He saw it was in the seat back and decided to not move forward. He said the d/s all he did was move it back to access the middle console panel while he was laying on his stomach to work on it. No seat removal or seat structure was removed. Just the middle console shift bezel and door panel. ECU reset with the battery terminal off.
Much as I don't believe in coincidences I am leaning toward the amp. If none of the wiring/ connectors were touched and both sides are not getting a signal, then it has to be a setting or the amp.
The Audiopilot only consists of three (3) wires for the mic (signal, ground, shield) as the amp does all of the equalizing.
All the info on the harnesses is in the FSM.
Staying tuned...
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 09-17-2019 at 07:03 PM.
Well after two and a half days (all day today, yesterday and since 10am on Monday) my independent let me down. Couldn't find the culprit. Said it "might" be the amp or harness to the amp. Only thing they did that might have caused some sort of electrical issue is disconnect the battery, but It's kinda hard to frame them for causing this-must be just a "coincidence". And expensive one too! Gonna have to go to the dealer and I'm not happy about it at all. I'm sure they'll "guess" with suggesting to replace the amp at $1k plus labor, then I'm sure they'll want to replace the heated/cooled seat module at $500 etc etc. They just start replacing things without truly trying to fix or solve any problems. Beginning to consider dumping the car. Way too many issues, too expensive to maintain. My least favorite Infiniti and I've owned about 15 of them over the years. 30k miles and in beautiful condition but too many quirky issues. Battling this and the darn cooled seat/heated seat not working is frustrating. If the top rattles weren't enough, brakes at 25K with rotors, 3 sets of tires in 30k miles, new trunk struts, new aluminum trim, shifter **** and needs new steering wheel cover or leather to be replaced as it's starting to wear prematurely. Not happy at all with the quality of this G/Q and will never buy another again. My 2013 IPL vert had less quality issues.
The amp can easily be replaced with a used one from eBay. Granted, there aren't too many for the 'vert, but they do come up. Me, personally, I would do a little jerry-rigging to get them to work.
The climate controlled seats: from what I gather, sounds like a bad harness (being that it works while you fiddle with the connector. Even if it was the module, I would consider used.
All I can say is this: It does appear you have had more than average maintenance and quality issues. If you are getting disgruntled with the car and/or are losing confidence/interest in it, perhaps it is time to move on before more expensive repairs (like the top) evolve. Once that "mojo" is gone there is no getting it back.
FWIW, I am sorry you are having these headaches. Wish I could be if more help.... wishing you luck with whatever direction you take.
Thanks...big difference between having it all covered under warranty and not. My problem is time always surpasses mileage. I bought this Infiniti used and not new, like my IPL. I bought an ESP after my factory 4 years was out on my 13 back in 2017 and drove for another year and a half under warranty-well worth the $2500 for the ESP for four more years and/or 100k miles no deductible. Many of these things would have been covered, but my 14 was already out of warranty when I bought it late 2018 and I couldn't get an ESP-I tried believe me! My 13 IPL didn't have any of these quirky issues, just had to have the main cat replaced and a head gasket replaced (which would both be a GRIP to pay for out of warranty), but as far as electronics go it was pretty good. Brake rotors glaze on these cars a lot too-and they did on my 09 FX35 and my 2012 FX50, 2011 QX56 and my 16 QX80. There are many "common" issues that Nissan and Infiniti products have like lock actuators and bose speaker problems and burning oil. Compared to Lexus Infiniti as a luxury brand has a lot of stupid quality issues they need to get right before they are considered in the same conversation. Speaking from experience...bad valves in a 2006 FX45, 2008 G37s coupe with bad cam sprocket with a bonus of dash, door panels steering wheel and aluminum trim finish problems oh and the clock spring on steering wheel out. 2012 FX50 with only 120k miles had coolant in the 4 and 6 cylinders, CEL would not stay off in that truck but I loved it anyway, My 11 QX56 had engine knocking-got rid of it before I found out what that could be. I love Infiniti performance, style, tech compared to similar years/models in Lexus but I have to admit because I used to be in the business AND from ownership of both competitive cars in both brands Lexus just makes a better vehicle. The SC430 was bulletproof. I owned three of them and no quirky quality issues like this we see in the G/Q convertible. Major issues by Lexus were handled through recalls. The sticky dash/steering wheels and door panels of all the Rx, IS and LS models of the mid to late 2000's were all taken care of by Lexus. My 2003 FX35 had no issues, I bought it new and put 150k miles on it in eight years. My 2009 FX35 first year model too-no issues, sold it at 30k. Maybe just luck of the draw on the used ones I've bought...BUT still you should be able to feel confident buying a used luxury vehicle that was once $50, $60k and has low miles, was well maintained and be able to have additional years of worry free ownership. Shouldn't be a money pit like so many I've had. Lots of common quality issues across the brand. I used to see a lot of QX56 with bad engines at auctions. So many used G's with interiors falling apart. All the FX's practically from 2003-2008 with dash issues. Lock actuators on one FX I had literally tallied a $2k bill for all six of them to be replaced!!! Even the freaking trunk actuator was out!! I know there was a dash recall on the FX for the bubbles but I don't remember the G ever seeing a similar recall but I could be mistaken for the aluminum trim and interior quality. I know it's a WHOLE different experience buying a used Infiniti vs new, and vs Lexus. You really don't have to worry too much about buying a used Lexus, more of a crap shoot on an Infiniti. I'm proof. Buying new or still under factory warranty is DEFINITELY my recommendation on Infiniti. So...stay tuned. Headed to my local dealer for official Infiniti diagnosis. Gotta figure this out if not for me, at least for the future owner-no one will want to buy this car that has some of the best features not working in it. I know I wouldn't. And with the low miles and how great it looks, you can't refute the fact that this is poor performance by Infiniti quality standards. Just turned 30,100 today. 2014. Shouldn't have these quirky issues. Period.
Found a used amp for $499 on eBay. I want to just confirm that is it the amp-could be harness. Even at $500 versus $1k+ new, not a big fan of replacing just for the heck of it. Now I need to find the control module for the cooled/heated seats used for a bargain.
Sadly, to my knowledge, there is no way to really test whether the amp is good or not. Perhaps others more technically knowledgeable with these amps can chime in. $500 itself is a little high, they come up much cheaper from time to time.
I would test each headrest speaker independently before replacing anything. All it takes is a 3.5mm headphone jack/pigtail and a iPod. This way you can completely eliminate a harness issue.
Can't offer much advice for the seat issue. I am willing to bet it is something simple being overlooked.
Sadly, to my knowledge, there is no way to really test whether the amp is good or not. Perhaps others more technically knowledgeable with these amps can chime in. $500 itself is a little high, they come up much cheaper from time to time.
I would test each headrest speaker independently before replacing anything. All it takes is a 3.5mm headphone jack/pigtail and a iPod. This way you can completely eliminate a harness issue.
Can't offer much advice for the seat issue. I am willing to bet it is something simple being overlooked.
Thanks! Heading to stealership tomorrow hope it all works out. If not I'm getting rid of this. ***Update: Now both seats don't work!
09-14-2019, 08:21 PM
