JakeG37

Need some input on what after market speakers you guys would recommend. Did you remove or disconnect all the stock Bose speakers? Mix and match new with the old? I have a 2008 G37s Coupe and I know it has speakers on each side of the back seat as well as speakers up against the rear window. Im sure having the speaker setup Bose has is specific to their design and I wonder if they would be necessary when going with aftermarket speakers/amps?

JakeG37

I have started to compile a list of components based on inputs from a friend at work. Here is what I have so far:

JL Audio 300/4v3 amp (A/B)
JL Audio JX500/1 amp (A/B)
Diamond Audio Elite Series DE65C (component mids/highs) 6.5" mid and 1" tweeters
Diamond Audio Elite Series DE692 6x9's for the rear deck lid.
JL Audio 10W6v3 sub

I am trying to determine what enclosure I can use to place the sub in the trunk or some other location that will not take up a lot of space. I read about the 4080 enclosures but it seems they are no longer in business. Any suggestions on an enclosure? Also, will this integrate well with the stock head unit? Not sure if I need to use/replace the Bose speakers in the back (the ones on the sides of the rear seats).

JakeG37

Bump. Changed the first couple of posts now that I have a better understanding of what I want to do and what I am working with.

socketz67

I use this one: Single 10" Sealed Car Subwoofer 3/4" MDF Enclosure/Box 0.77 Cu Ft

With a JX250 and a WxV2 10, both from JL.

Fits perfectly into the corner of the trunk.

The box is built very well.

JakeG37

Im looking for a custom fit box. I want to keep as much of my trunk space as I can since space is such a premium in these cars One site I checked out could take 2 months to build and I dont want to wait that long. Ill keep searching.

ncfballkid

Do you mind showing where you had mounted your amp and stuff? I'm trying to come up with a good mounting location for my setup.

socketz67

I started out at the same point as well. But the custom enclosure I wanted was close to $300 (customenclosures.com) and the wrong size for most 10s. The one I have now is solid and cost $31 vs. $275. It is also .75 cu ft, so it's perfect for most 10s. The extra trunk space consumed is negligible, but I agree that the custom box looks better.

socketz67

ncfballkid,
The box actually sits on the other side of the trunk now as I found that the passenger side is countered slightly different and allows the box to fit more snugly into the corner as compared to what's shown. The JX250 Amp (similar dimension to JX500 if I recall) is mounted to the back of the rear seat on the driver's side. Looks really clean IRL. I will try to snap a pick and upload at some point.

socketz67

JakeG37

I was just at a shop asking about doing all the upgrades to my system. I was told I need a LOC and that my stock Bose amp will need to be used to tap the signals to feed to the other amps in my system. The guy told me that I cant take out the Bose amp and just take the outputs from the head unit and feed them to the amps. Is this correct? I could swear I read something on the forums that a LOC was not needed. Even if I need a LOC, why the **** do I need to keep my Bose amp??? The point of all of this is to get rid of the Bose and replace with custom components.

socketz67

That's going to happen because most shops are not going to understand the intricacies of every factory system in existence. Tapping an LOC off of a speaker is boilerplate and should work just about every time (if the signal is full range). Unfortunately, on our cars with Bose, this does not work because the signal going into the speaker is processed and crossed over, so its not full range. If you study the thread here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...breakdown.html

And know exactly what to ask for, then most shops will accommodate your request. I have one here in San Diego I can refer you to if you ever get down this way. This technique definitely works, but since it is not 'conventional' most shops will push back and try to send you the route of the LOC. If you are really good at stripping/tapping into fragile 22 gauge wire yourself, then a DIY is even possible (many take this route).

Also, the context here applies to 'supplementing' the Bose system. "Replacing" it is another story and essentially requires you tear everything out and start over. While some have done this, it's not an option for others that simply want to add some bass to the factory system.

JakeG37

Sorry if I am not understanding everything you posted. My plans are to remove the door speakers and use 6.5 mids and 1" tweeters, replace the stock bose 6x9's with another brand, disconnect the other rear mids next to each back seat, and disconnect the center speaker on the dash. In doing this, do I still need to use the Bose amp to tap those signals using an LOC to feed to the two new amps? I delved into that thread but didnt see an answer to the question I am asking here.

socketz67

What you described is quite a bit more complicated as the Bose speakers themselves are two ohm units and designed to work with the Bose Amp[s].

The thread I showed you describes how to add more bass to the factory Bose setup, so it's more of a 'supplementing' thread, and you need to find one that discusses "replacing".

JakeG37

Maybe someone will chime in on how I need to o this. Haven't found a thread with this information. Most of them are what you said being just adding an amp/sub.

equifire

The process is pretty straight forward. you'll want to disconnect the factory bose amp and cut 4 wires that go into it. They'll be the front left and right + - channels. They are full range signal. Solder rca leads to the wires. I used these. . I don't know the colors of the wires off the top of my head but they are in the service manual. I should be able to look them up if you need it.
After you have the RCA leats connected just plug the L+R channels into your amp. From the 1st amp you should be able to daisy chain to other amps. I'm running a Helix digital signal processor and 2 Alpine V9's and an M12.