Speaker/Sub Depths?
#1
Speaker/Sub Depths?
So in anticipation (4 years down the road) im looking for speakers thatll fit my current car and my future G37 SEDAN/Q60.
Please correct me if i am wrong, these are the speaker sizes in the Bose Studio On Wheels package;
A 3.5" dash speaker
A tweeter in each sail panel (2)
A 3.5" mid-range in each door (2)
A 10" woofer in each door (2)
A 3.5" mid-range in each rear quarter panel (2)
Two 6x9s on the rear deck (2).
I have two Sony Tweeters, and two Sony 6.5" Midwoofers ( XS-GS1621C System, fantastic if i may say) Thatll take care of my rear deck. Now the only other speakers that ill be putting in my car (2000 Audi A4) are Subs.
My question is, are the subs in the Infiniti shallow mount or "normal" persay.
And also, as i look at the rear doors on my dads 2013 sedan, the grills look much larger than 3.5" grills. His G37 is a lease so i dont dare take the door panels off.
Shallow or "Normal" because i was looking at getting the Infinity Kappa 100.9W's ( two of course ). I havent settled on any shallow mounts yet ( alittle help? )
Please correct me if i am wrong, these are the speaker sizes in the Bose Studio On Wheels package;
A 3.5" dash speaker
A tweeter in each sail panel (2)
A 3.5" mid-range in each door (2)
A 10" woofer in each door (2)
A 3.5" mid-range in each rear quarter panel (2)
Two 6x9s on the rear deck (2).
I have two Sony Tweeters, and two Sony 6.5" Midwoofers ( XS-GS1621C System, fantastic if i may say) Thatll take care of my rear deck. Now the only other speakers that ill be putting in my car (2000 Audi A4) are Subs.
My question is, are the subs in the Infiniti shallow mount or "normal" persay.
And also, as i look at the rear doors on my dads 2013 sedan, the grills look much larger than 3.5" grills. His G37 is a lease so i dont dare take the door panels off.
Shallow or "Normal" because i was looking at getting the Infinity Kappa 100.9W's ( two of course ). I havent settled on any shallow mounts yet ( alittle help? )
Last edited by Buckley; 02-04-2015 at 08:41 PM.
#2
It depends on the year. Mine has 1 ten inch on the rear deck, not 2 6x9's.
I don't know the answer to the shallow mount question, but I think the best solution is a separate sub in the trunk rather than upgrading the existing woofers.
I don't know the answer to the shallow mount question, but I think the best solution is a separate sub in the trunk rather than upgrading the existing woofers.
#3
front door "sub"
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
front tweeter
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
I wouldn't mess with the rear speakers at all. I would also skip on the three way set up in the door unless you have the time and knowledge to tune a 3 way set up.
The speaker adapter in the link provides you more depth for your front mids. I have a 2.75" deep mid in my door right now using the adapter.
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
front tweeter
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
I wouldn't mess with the rear speakers at all. I would also skip on the three way set up in the door unless you have the time and knowledge to tune a 3 way set up.
The speaker adapter in the link provides you more depth for your front mids. I have a 2.75" deep mid in my door right now using the adapter.
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m3clubracer (08-29-2015)
#4
front door "sub"
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
front tweeter
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
I wouldn't mess with the rear speakers at all. I would also skip on the three way set up in the door unless you have the time and knowledge to tune a 3 way set up.
The speaker adapter in the link provides you more depth for your front mids. I have a 2.75" deep mid in my door right now using the adapter.
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
front tweeter
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
I wouldn't mess with the rear speakers at all. I would also skip on the three way set up in the door unless you have the time and knowledge to tune a 3 way set up.
The speaker adapter in the link provides you more depth for your front mids. I have a 2.75" deep mid in my door right now using the adapter.
#5
yes, I like a two way set up in a car.
I've tried to run a 3 way set up in two of my cars before. It's just not worth it unless the car is dedicated to sound quality.
More speakers = more install issues.
I'm just saying it's not worth it to me. If you have the amp(s), processor, and hours of time to tune, go for it.
I think a properly tuned 2 way can sound just as good as a 3 way set up.
I've tried to run a 3 way set up in two of my cars before. It's just not worth it unless the car is dedicated to sound quality.
More speakers = more install issues.
I'm just saying it's not worth it to me. If you have the amp(s), processor, and hours of time to tune, go for it.
I think a properly tuned 2 way can sound just as good as a 3 way set up.
#6
yes, I like a two way set up in a car.
I've tried to run a 3 way set up in two of my cars before. It's just not worth it unless the car is dedicated to sound quality.
More speakers = more install issues.
I'm just saying it's not worth it to me. If you have the amp(s), processor, and hours of time to tune, go for it.
I think a properly tuned 2 way can sound just as good as a 3 way set up.
I've tried to run a 3 way set up in two of my cars before. It's just not worth it unless the car is dedicated to sound quality.
More speakers = more install issues.
I'm just saying it's not worth it to me. If you have the amp(s), processor, and hours of time to tune, go for it.
I think a properly tuned 2 way can sound just as good as a 3 way set up.
#7
my father just got back from vegas and looking at his deck it looks like a 10" which is even better for me.
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#8
You don't want to run subs in the doors. Trust me.
The bose "subs" are meh
True subs in the door would require some type of enclosure. Even shallow mount subs would be cutting it close to your depth.
I would say the max depth you can do is 3.5" and that's with spacers. You can easily fit most 6.5" mids with no issues.
I have removed everything in my car that was stock. Even the speaker wire.
I have a nexus 7 in the dash that's feeding an Audison bit ten D processor. The Audison feeds an amp.
If you just want loud, then add the speakers and have fun. If you want sound quality then you will need to do a lot of measuring and custom work.
The bose "subs" are meh
True subs in the door would require some type of enclosure. Even shallow mount subs would be cutting it close to your depth.
I would say the max depth you can do is 3.5" and that's with spacers. You can easily fit most 6.5" mids with no issues.
I have removed everything in my car that was stock. Even the speaker wire.
I have a nexus 7 in the dash that's feeding an Audison bit ten D processor. The Audison feeds an amp.
If you just want loud, then add the speakers and have fun. If you want sound quality then you will need to do a lot of measuring and custom work.
#9
You don't want to run subs in the doors. Trust me.
The bose "subs" are meh
True subs in the door would require some type of enclosure. Even shallow mount subs would be cutting it close to your depth.
I would say the max depth you can do is 3.5" and that's with spacers. You can easily fit most 6.5" mids with no issues.
I have removed everything in my car that was stock. Even the speaker wire.
I have a nexus 7 in the dash that's feeding an Audison bit ten D processor. The Audison feeds an amp.
If you just want loud, then add the speakers and have fun. If you want sound quality then you will need to do a lot of measuring and custom work.
The bose "subs" are meh
True subs in the door would require some type of enclosure. Even shallow mount subs would be cutting it close to your depth.
I would say the max depth you can do is 3.5" and that's with spacers. You can easily fit most 6.5" mids with no issues.
I have removed everything in my car that was stock. Even the speaker wire.
I have a nexus 7 in the dash that's feeding an Audison bit ten D processor. The Audison feeds an amp.
If you just want loud, then add the speakers and have fun. If you want sound quality then you will need to do a lot of measuring and custom work.
#11
#12
#13
i mean like, i will be replacing everything if i can. my car right now ive taken everything out except the front speakers just cause im not paying $300+ for a 4" comp system while working minimum wage in high school. but i have 4 mids, and 4 tweeters in the back (2 in each door and 2 in rear deck), and still picking out for a new sub. but if i have to keep the front speakers i will but if i can replace them i will, since i have/will have enough amps. only tricky thing is finding the door sub dimensions, no one seems to know.
I'm assuming your adding real subs to the trunk of the car so in essence the door drivers become woofers. Whatever you want to call them, unless you purchase free air woofers, your going to have to cross them over above 70-80hz (maybe even 100hz) to avoid some nasty resonances given you won't have an enclosure behind them.
The slim line woofers from Rockford and JL will fit in the opening. Thinking this might be the easiest route to take, I initially went this route and just didn't like the metallic sound of the bass; I moved to a 6.5" round woofer and while I was able to obtain more natural, defined and stronger bass, the metallic thunk was still there. It was only after I made a custom braced fiberglass rear baffle behind the speaker that I was able to get clean and uncolored bass from the door woofer. If you think you will be bothered by the coloration of using the door cavity as an enclosure for the woofer, your only alternative is to construct such a baffle unless you cross the driver over high enough to avoid the problem.
Plan carefully before you tackle the doors, what Blaze said is true, there's a lot of work that goes into a 3 way in the doors and whether your work will pay off is ultimately a testament to your skill as an installer, knowledge in your driver selection and ability to design and build custom crossovers (or ability in tuning a 3 way system). Asses your skills (or pocket book) carefully and balance them against your ability to hear any difference
#14
Registered User
When you guys say 3-way in the door, are you referring to the high mounted tweeters as the high component?
Would you then put a 3.5" mid and 6" woofer in the door in place of the 10" oem woofer?
Would you then put a 3.5" mid and 6" woofer in the door in place of the 10" oem woofer?
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NeoNz (03-06-2015)