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New G37 Owner/Audio Question

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Old 11-16-2014, 12:05 AM
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vinmega
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New G37 Owner/Audio Question

Recently went from my 05 G35x to an 11 g37x with wood and navi...
My question, I want to replace the speakers and amps but keep the headunit.
Can a shop put in my JL amps, new speakers in the doors, and my JL 10in box.
I want to know if it can be hooked up to the new amps to run the system, but not touch the headunit...
The 05 to the 11 is night and day...what a nice car.
I thought the 05 hauled ***, but the 11 hauls 2 asses...

BTW, I have an 05 G35x sedan with 180k miles on it, in flawless mechanical condition for sale...
Thanks for your feedback on the audio.
Old 11-16-2014, 01:03 AM
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CRiME
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Welcome.

Definitely. In fact, replacing the head unit is not really much of an option for us. Those of us who opt to overhaul the system usually add a sound processor in addition to the amps and new speakers. I recently did this myself. I chose the JBL MS8 processor. I then have a three other amps driving my 6.5" door speakers, midrange / center channel, and sub. Several members on this site also recommend the Audison line of processors.

If you want to skip the sound processor, you can do that as well. I like the addition of the processor because it allows you to customize your sound in detail. Without the processor, the install is basically just a matter of having them splice your RCA connections into the factory amp harness in the trunk, and hooking up the amps & speakers. I opted to re use the factory bose wiring to my speakers. I really didn't have much time to run new wires. No issues at all.


Edit: do you have the bose system? Note that the bose system in the sedan carries 10" "subwoofers" in the front doors. The shop will have to create some MDF adapter plates for you to use, which will allow you to mount a set of 6.5"s. I created my own. I used 3/4" MDF rings to bring the woofers out a bit, so that I would have no clearance issues with the magnet. May not look too pretty, but function perfectly
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Last edited by CRiME; 11-16-2014 at 04:02 AM.
Old 11-16-2014, 09:13 AM
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G37Xtreme
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What? I have 10" subs in my front doors?
Do I also have one in the rear? Is there any midrange or tweeters in the doors with the 10"subs?
Old 11-16-2014, 09:51 AM
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conquistador
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https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...-your-own.html
Old 11-16-2014, 10:02 AM
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vinmega
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OK, Thanks for the advice guys, I will do the MDF thing for the doors.
I am wondering if I can just put in 10" three way speakers in the front doors?
I know the back door is a 6.5 right?
Old 11-16-2014, 10:04 AM
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vinmega
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would these work as a replacement?
JL Audio C2-350x Evolution™ Series 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com
Old 11-16-2014, 12:57 PM
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CRiME
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Originally Posted by G37Xtreme
What? I have 10" subs in my front doors?
Do I also have one in the rear? Is there any midrange or tweeters in the doors with the 10"subs?
Yeah, Bose setup has 10" in the front doors, 6.5" in the rear doors, and another 10" in the rear deck. On my '11, I have 3.5" midrange in the front doors and also separate tweeters above the midrange speakers, near the A pillar. Some vehicles don't have the additional tweeter pod, I'm not sure what year infiniti began using that configuration.
Originally Posted by vinmega
OK, Thanks for the advice guys, I will do the MDF thing for the doors.
I am wondering if I can just put in 10" three way speakers in the front doors?
I know the back door is a 6.5 right?
There really is not much depth there to use a standard 10" speaker, due to clearance issues with the window. Even a 10" shallow mount may be a tight fit, which is why most people choose the 6.5" w/ MDF adapter route. This is what the stock 10" looks like. These aren't my pictures, found via google for reference.


This is what the door looks like with the speaker removed and the factory mounting bracket left intact. The window guide rail is basically slightly behind / directly beside that curved strip of sheet metal, so the available depth is limited.





Originally Posted by vinmega
I actually replaced the 3.5"s with a set of JL Audio TR350-CXi coaxials, which are very similar to those that you've posted. They did fit, however note that you (or the shop) will have to get creative with the mounting. My stock 3.5" looked like the picture below. It might be difficult to see, however each of the mounting tabs sits at a different height, and standard mounting tabs from the JL or any other 3.5" will not line up to what you have in the door panel; the factory speaker and door panel are more or less 'contoured' for each other.



To secure my 3.5" and have it sit flush in the panel, I got one tab to bolt down to one of the stock mounting points (the lowest point), and I ended up using PVC pipe hanger to 'strap down' the other side. This actually secured it quite well. I have since replaced the JL's with a set of Polk DB351s. Those also fit, used the same mounting technique.
This is the method that I managed to come up with. I applied a strip of velcro to help secure the strap to the rear of the magnet. I'm sure that an actual bracket can be fabricated, much like the bracket to mount the 6.5", but I was in a jam and needed to wrap this up . To my surprise, it actually secured it quite well. It doesn't move at all, and I have no rattles or vibrations whatsoever.
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Hope this helps.

Last edited by CRiME; 11-16-2014 at 02:19 PM.
Old 01-14-2015, 12:16 AM
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vinmega
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Thanks again man, this has been really helpful. I do have the 2 3.5in speakers in the door below the tweeter.
So I am now trying to figure out which 10in would be thin enough to fit in the front door.
I am also wondering if there is a way to maybe dremmel that housing off of the old 3.5 and attach it to the new 3.5 for the front doors.
I am going to go with the sound processor (I like house music, hip hop, reagge, rock, etc) so I like my music 'very full' Also as a former DJ, its NOT an option to not have an EQ.
One question, can I remove the bose amp fully and just pull the input wires and re route to new subs?
Thanks again man, you are a really helpful guy and thanks for sharing the info with me.
Old 01-14-2015, 02:19 AM
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RA081224
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Originally Posted by vinmega
One question, can I remove the bose amp fully and just pull the input wires and re route to new subs?
Thanks again man, you are a really helpful guy and thanks for sharing the info with me.


Not only can you; but its highly recommended to remove everything with the Bose nameplate
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