ay37

Sound gurus of Infiniti...

My last subwoofer system was in my pontiac grand prix. I had 2 12" Powerbass pbx 3xl's running 1000w rms with 0 awg kicker wire, 3000amp xs battery, powerbass 1000w rms amp. Dynamat everywhere lol; truck, floor, headliner, doors. That was too loud for me. I'm looking for no rattle, clean bass that is better than stock.

Now... I have a nice, "classy" g37x sedan lol. It has the Bose system. I am looking to add only an 8" Alpine Type-R (SWR-8D2) to my G. I really wanted to go with Fi Audio, but the smallest sub they make is a 10". I'll also be going with this enclosure: 2008-13 Infiniti G37 sedan custom subwoofer enclosure speaker box

I'll most likely use KnuKonceptz 4 awg wire, unless there is a better recommendation.

Could I get some good recommendation on amps?



P.S. As far as wiring the sub goes, I typically would just hook up a hi-lo converter to the speaker wires then RCA into the amp. I caught wind of this thread here and I'm trying to understand what they are talking about. I don't want my sub to sound "weak" like some have described with a hi-low converter, so what exactly are they doing in this thread? I want mine to be wired right. https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...l-finally.html

Thanks

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Since you have the bose system, you don't necessarily need a hi-lo converter. I spliced into wires 23-26 for my signal to my JL amp. Later, I tried splicing into wires 16 & 17, the "signal to woofer amp" wires as per the bose wiring breakdown. I found that after doing this my sub had significantly higher output - I had to drop the gain on my amp.

as far as an amp reccomendation, I am running the JL jx500 / 1d. Love it. Has great output and a tiny footprint. Should be more than enough to power your alpine 8"

RA081224

Opinions regarding high end amplification are so numerous only discussions on religion and politics could eclipse them. IMHO within price points one amp is pretty much like another save for features and options. One rule of thumb I've always used is to test amps together side by side using the same source material (preferably DVDA, SACD or high bitrate lossless digital recordings) and see how each one sounds with similar drivers. Take notes on what you hear. Its always been my experience that for similarly outfitted amplifiers of similar quality there is little difference in the raw amplification capabilities but there are subtle differences within the tone or "color" of the sound inherent in each manufacturers design and build philosophy. Having said all that, I've used Rockford Fosgate power amps for the last 35 years. Take that with a grain of salt and go out and listen for yourself and find what you like.

I can understand your reluctance to reproduce your original system in a G for fear of resonance, rattles and what not; even though the G is a markedly better built car, eventually rattles and loose panels will emerge over time. Your best bet is to keep a supply of rattle pad and adhesive products on hand and tackle them as they appear. Most are easy to resolve. Id much rather have a system capable of generating small earthquakes for those rare occurrences when I'm moved to do so rather than be forced into comply with the inabilities of a smaller system for fear of loosening my door panels (again)

Id skip the AWG4 and head right to the AWG1/0. You can go with the brand name power feed wires if you've got the $$ but I prefer welding cable. Its tougher, offers oil and gasoline resistance and is loads cheaper. The trade off is the flexibility of the cable. Running the power feed wire from the battery to the trunk area in a G is about as simple as you can get so if you like the pretty colors and the KnuKonceptz logo on your wire, go for it. Gsteigerwald's post shows some pretty good detail on wire routing. The only thing Id add is where you pass the wire through sheet metal; use a grommet to protect the wire. Also, if your dead set on running a single 8" sub, the AWG4 will suffice but I'm betting you will want more once its installed.

Since you've only listed one sub, Id be cautious with going with an 8" Some people have shoehorned 12's in a G and while I'm sure it sounds fantastic, I'm also sure it came with some agony in getting them to fit cleanly and not completely take over the entire trunk area. I chose the middle ground with a 10" sub but put one on each side of the trunk. I can still reach my spare and have room for six bags of groceries if need be.

If you are taking the signals off the head unit from a Bose SOW setup, you will not need a line level converter as the signals from the head unit are essentially line level. Most amps these days come with line level and speaker level inputs so its not so much of an issue but Id go with the line level inputs and skip any converters.

One additional item to consider; you can get by without this but you will be forever limited in how well you can tune your sub to match any remaining Bose components in the car unless you get a sound processor. Even if you replace the entire Bose system; having the ability to adjust for time delays, apply parametric equalization and use digital crossovers to feed multiple amplifiers makes tuning the final system easier

Good luck, have fun!

JT2014

iTrader: (6)

The 8 will not be enough. The seats are THICK into the trunk. . Get the 10 or a 12. My 10 isn't as loud as it was in my other car. If I had known I would have went 12 & some more amp power.
Nothing wrong with the 4GA cable. That's all I ever ran in many cars & I never had a any problem.

ay37

CRiME. What kind of sub(s) are you running?

Absinthe... thank you for that information and experience. I do not plan to replace the stock Bose system, so no need for a DSP, correct?

And as far as the suggestions about an 8 not being big enough... man that's so tough to decide if it is or not... It's like trying to try on a pair of shoes over the internet LOL... just don't know until I see it, hear it, feel it.

I was kinda figuring like this... My old system was 1000w rms, and albeit the setup was surrounded in dynamat, it was just too much. That 8" woofer runs at 350w continuous... I'm thinking "power-wise" it should be where I want it to be in the G... but then you gotta think about the air your moving. You could run 350w rms on a 10" and it will sound louder because of the air your moving, correct?

Decisions... decisions... not sure how to really test that one out. And of all the 8" woofers I looked at, the Alpine Type R had the highest power rating with a "mid-of-the-road" frequency response of 20-200hz if I'm not mistaken.

If I decide to roll with a 10"... you guys think I'd be happy at 500w rms? something in that range? I really do want to conserve my truck space and keep the weight down in the trunk. I just want a better punch than stock offers... so many frequencies the factory woofer cannot hit and it makes the music dull.

At the same time, I am really not concerned with shaking the guy's car in front of me. My old system was cool because I could drown most of the local systems, but I don't care for that anymore.

I have never messed with an 8" woofer so I can't image how weak it is... you guys are telling me it won't be enough, but damnit how do i know! lol. Even if i "hear it" at the store, it won't be the same experience as the car. Even if i hear a 8" woofer in another vehicle, it won't be the G37... so it's very hard to say how it will sound. Not to mention the head unit, enclosure, wiring, and amp all change the sound drastically. JT2014, you did mention the back seat is THICK which would kinda have me thinking to go to a 10"... The nice thing about a 10, is that i can always turn it down if i think its too loud or whatever, but it just eats up a lot more space than the 8 does. I was hoping to use that fiberglass enclosure I posted and keep it "flush" with the side of the truck. From the pictures, it looks like the 10 sticks out a bit into the the middle of the trunk..

Thanks guys...

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

I have a JL 10tw3-d4. Output is incredible given that it is a "shallow mount" sub.

ay37

nice... you got me lookin at JL stuff again lol

what about this monster: 8W7AE-3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W7AE - JL Audio

still an 8" but i'm sure it could be as loud as a 10? 500w rms.. Is that "enough" maybe? o_O or would most audiophiles say it's gotta be at least a 10 no matter what?

ay37

ahh maybe nevermind on that 8" w7... that thing looks deep lol. might as well get a 10 at that point...

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I was actually checking out that w7 today in person. Was in a store where they had it on display. It is quite deep, and I agree that with that depth you may as well shoot for a 10". Didn't get to hear the w7, but it definitely looks like it can blow away an eardrum or two

ay37

I heard Sundown Audio makes great amps, but what about their subs... how bout this bad boy? SA Series ....... as a single 10"

ay37

The more I read, the more I read JL has the best SQ with the ability to get loud. I'm just going JL... a 10" JL... now to choose which one..w7 or w6? w6 is better sound? w7 is louder? is that a fair statement?

and the G37 should be able to handle the w6 with a stock alternator? Assuming the amp will be around 600w rms.. No need for a small battery or anything?

ay37

I think I now have it narrowed down to this: 10W3v3-2 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W3v3 - JL Audio

and this: http://www.jlaudio.com/xd600-1v2-car...plifiers-98604

... regarding the enclosure... i've never had a "corner box" ... usually go with traditional boxes facing the rear of the vehicle... is there an advantage for lets say a zen enclosure over the corner box enclosure?

RA081224

No matter how many (or how few) drivers your adding, a DSP is not essentially required; BUT; like I said before, it will allow you all forms of digital filtering that will make it easier to extract impact from the sub while keeping resonance to a minimum. With an 8" sub, the cutoff frequency of the driver may not be low enough to really perform efficiently as a sub-woofer. The DSP will allow you to extend the drivers usable frequency response. With my setup, the subs, in a sealed enclosure are only good down to around 35Hz. With the 360.2 processor, I'm able to get a +/-3db point down to around 22 Hz. Granted at that frequency, the impact is felt more than its heard!

ay37

Oh okay... so you think it's worth investing in a dsp even if it's just for a sub. I was thinking interior speakers, but yea, why wouldn't I want a cleaner, more refined sub frequency range... What DSP do you use?

Thanks

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

The enclosure will play a bigger part than you think.

A small sealed 8" will not get very loud. Yes there are newer 8" subs that will rock you out of your seats. Most of these need a large enclosure for an 8. Usually a 1 cube box ported to a low frequencies.

I have a 10" RE Se sub from 2008 that will make the rear view mirror dance. Its in a 1.25 ported box tuned to 30hz. I'm only driving it with ~400rms and its amazingly loud.
Before this I was running a TC sounds LMS-r with about ~1300rms, so I know loud =)

I would look for a ported enclosure or even build your own.
As far as amps...honestly, just buy a decent name brand amp. A class D amp will be more efficient.

When you're going for great sound quality for your mids/tweets, then I would recommend some high end amps.