spenceyadigg

Was thinking about buying a JL HD 600/4 amp for the stock speakers to increase sound level and quality. Was also going to add a JL 12" W6 powered by a JL HD 750/1 amp. Do you think the speakers will still sound like crap? Don't want to replace all 10 speakers but will do if I have to. This is a 2013 G37 Journey Sedan with the Bose studio on wheels btw.

kei

I did something similar with a XD400/4 for the stock speakers and a XD600/1 to power my sub. I also got the CL441DSP CleanSweep which I believe will make the stock speakers sound much better/louder. Unfortunately I haven't heard it without the CleanSweep so I really can't tell you if it was just the addition of the amp or both.

spenceyadigg

Was planning on getting the cleansweep as well. How does it sound with it?

Arrogant

Since the amp is only 4 channels are you using the stock amp to power the rest of the stock speakers? I really like this idea, and may do the same thing.

Arrogant

Also, what happens to the hands free cell phone and other items when using an aftermarket amp.

RA081224

They work the same as long as you pull the wires from the stock head unit

RA081224

awwww go for it, its only 10 drivers; six of which are behind the door panels. Its only time..........and money...........a few skinned knuckles.....did I mention money?

Arrogant

What do you mean by pulling them from stock head unit? does that mean j

RA081224

It means tap the wires from the stock head unit to the Bose amp. Connectors B41, B42 and B43 are the ones found in the trunk. They originate at the AV control module in the dash. Any signal marked "Sound Signal" is a line level input into the Bose Amp. I would refrain from using any signals from B43 as those originate inside the Bose Amp and I cannot guarantee they haven't been "processed by Bose." Additionally, its not necessary to wire up the center dash speaker unless you have a specific processor that outputs a center channel. The AV guidance voice makes use of that speaker as well as the remaining front drivers so not having the center driver isn't a big deal.

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

If you're going to run an afrermarket amp...you might as well get some new speakers.

The factory Bose speakers are cheap paper speakers.

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps my experience may be an isolated case (2011 sedan with bose), however when splicing / soldering my harnesses in prep for my ms8, I found their use of the "sound signal" terminology in that diagram to be misleading. For signals from the HU, I successfully used:

(16) Rear Woofer + (SB)(Sky Blue) **Signal to woofer amp
(17) Rear Woofer - (V)(Violet) **Signal to woofer amp
(23) Rear Left - (SB)(Sky Blue) **Preamp from HU
(24) Rear Left + (V)(Violet) **Preamp from HU
(25) Rear Right - (Y)(Yellow) **Preamp from HU
(26) Rear Right + (BR)(Brown) **Preamp from HU
(33) Front Right + (R)(Red) **Preamp from HU
(34) Front Right - (G)(Green) **Preamp from HU
(35) Front Left + (P)(Pink) **Preamp from HU
(36) Front Left - (L)(Blue) **Preamp from HU

18/19 and 31/32 corresponded to the L and R speakers in my rear doors, hence they would have already seen amplification and bose processing. Since I will be removing the bose amp completely, and I am reusing the factory bose wiring, I spliced into those and will connect them to my 4 channel amp once I've mounted it.

Similarly, I found that 29/30 connect to the center channel, and that there really is no sound signal coming from the HU for the center speaker. I spliced into those wires and will connect them to my ms8, which will handle the creation/powering of the center channel.

I noticed that using 16/17 to feed my sub amp resulted in significantly higher output than when I had my sub connected to 23-26. I actually had to reduce my gain quite a bit. Can anyone shed some light on this? Is the output voltage higher?

Thanks guys

RA081224

My answer is primarily through experience with the coupe only. Although the sedans have an actual door mount on the "rear speakers" and the sub is actually mounted in the package shelf, YMMV

The signals from pins 24 & 26 are the low level signals for the tiny 3 1/2" drivers on the left and right of the rear seat cushion in the coupe (doors on the sedan). The signal comes straight from the AV Control unit is not the correct one for running the subs anyway. Pins 16 & 17 are designated for the 6" X 9" drivers in the package shelf (coup) and comically referred to by Bose as "Woofers" Even more comical; if you consult the factory schematics, it appears that the signals from pins 16 & 17 come from the Bose Amp. However, since those pins are still active and the Bose Amp is no longer in the car, I have to conclude that the signals although present in connector B41 and numbered on the Bose Amp are more likely direct from the AV control unit The main question that still burns in my mind is:

Although the signals to the Bose Amp (pins 23,24,25,26,33,34, 35,36) are full range; are the signals on pins 16 & 17 full range and why the amplitude change?

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the response, Absinthe. Once I wire up the ms8 I will only be using the front/rear signals, with the ms8 creating all of the outputs that I need. For now, I have reverted to wires 23-26 to feed my JL amp. The level provided from 16/17 was way too high, even with my amp gain turned all the way down! Something just didn't seem right.

RA081224

I think this deserves some more inspection the next time I tear into my audio system. I seriously need to tune the system again after adding better mid's and tweeters in the doors so that might be a good thing

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Finally had some free time to install the ms8 in my sedan this weekend. To recap, these are the wires that I used. All of the bose speakers were removed (have not removed the center yet, will tackle that once I have a little more time). I opted to retain the factory bose wiring, so there was a bit of soldering involved in the b41 and b42 harnesses. Here is how I did it:

Soldered RCA audio cables to these wires, connected to low level inputs 1-4 on the ms8:

(23) Rear Left - (SB)(Sky Blue) **Preamp from HU [b41]
(24) Rear Left + (V)(Violet) **Preamp from HU [b41]
(25) Rear Right - (Y)(Yellow) **Preamp from HU [b41]
(26) Rear Right + (BR)(Brown) **Preamp from HU [b41]
(33) Front Right + (R)(Red) **Preamp from HU [b41]
(34) Front Right - (G)(Green) **Preamp from HU [b41]
(35) Front Left + (P)(Pink) **Preamp from HU [b41]
(36) Front Left - (L)(Blue) **Preamp from HU [b41]


Spliced into the following wires, connected them to my 4 channel amp:

(5) Front Right Woofer + (G)(Green) [b42]
(6) Front Right Woofer - (R)(Red) [b42]
(9) Front Left Woofer - (W)(White) [b42]
(14) Front Left Woofer + (B)(Black) [b42]
(18) Rear Left Mid + (L)(Blue) [b41]
(19) Rear Left Mid - (P)(Pink) [b41]
(31) Rear Right Mid + (LG)(Light Green) [b41]
(32) Rear Right Mid - (Y)(Yellow) [b41]


Decided to run these channels off of the MS8's built in amp, so I also spliced and soldered speaker wire to the following. Connected them to the amplified output channels 5-7 of the MS8:

(1) Front Left Mid/Tweeter + (L)(Blue) [b42]
(2) Front Left Mid/Tweeter - (W)(White) [b42]
(3) Front Right Mid/Tweeter - (LG)(Light Green) [b42]
(4) Front Right Mid/Tweeter + (V)(Violet) [b42]
(29) Center + (L)(Blue) [b41]
(30) Center - (O)(Orange) [b41]

Ran a single RCA cable to my JL 500/1 from output #8 of the MS8; this channel handled the sub. From that point on it was just a matter of setting up / calibrating the ms8.

Initial impressions: very pleased with the improved audio quality, this job was definitely worth all of the time (and the inevitable cuts and scratches I manage to get no matter what I'm doing on the car). Adding an amp & sub is an improvement, but I definitely recommend the addition of an audio processor. Everything works as the OEM system did, even the beeps from my back-up sonar. Bluetooth audio works fine and is crystal clear. The only issue that I now have pertains to bluetooth phone calls: the caller on the other end hears an echo of their own voice on their handset. phone calls sound fine inside of the car, the problem can only be heard by the other person.

I've read that this is due to the audio processing. JBL has apparently released an update that 'defeats' the processing when pressing the mute button on the ms8's remote (can be done with the current firmware by navigating through the menus, the update appears to just provide the mute hotkey). Therefore, when getting a call, you'd have to hit this button so that the person on the other end doesn't go insane having two simultaneous conversations . A bit of a drag, but I guess it'll have to do for now. The pros of the MS8 outweigh this con by a long shot, for me at least.

Absinthe, which processor are you running? Do you have the bluetooth phone delay as well?

Also, has anyone here replaced the center speaker? Any tips or pointers for when I'm in there? I will be adding a 4" Dayton RS100-4 (actual cutout of this speaker is closer to that of a 3- 3 1/2" , however). From what I understand, the stock bose center is 3", so looks like there will be some cutting involved.