JT2014

iTrader: (6)

So I tried to add an amp & sub on my car about a week ago. I have no idea what I did but I wound up with a blown BCM & ECU fuse & wiped both modules.
I had to pay to fix it. $400. All is good now.
However I have been afraid to try & hookup the sub.
What I did was wire into the B43 connector pins 8 & 9 & turn on 3.
I have a Kicker ZR400 amp. I have a RCA to female wire end adapter that has 4 - & + inputs(L & R). The amp has a push button for hi & low level. I'm unsure which way this should go.
I hope my problem is that I didn't unhook the battery when I clipped the wire taps to the wires....
So I re ran the input wires to the B41 connector. I figured the adapter I have has L & R 4 channel inputs so I'll tap into that harness pins 23, 24, 25, 26 & turn on 20.
And that is where I am at. I have not tapped the wires & the fuse is out of the + amp battery cable.

Has anyone fried their electrical doing this before???

JT2014

iTrader: (6)

Anyone???

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

Always disconnect the battery when installing any electrical items.

Your amp should be on low level if you are using rca cables as an input for signal.

JT2014

iTrader: (6)

Well whatever happened also blew up my Kicker amp. That no longer works. I tried to power everything on yesterday.
Guess it was just my dumb luck.

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that's an interesting one. Sorry to hear that this happened to you. When you were installing the power wire to run to your amp, maybe your wrench accidentally touched a metal part of the car while you were loosening or tightening the positive terminal? Did you see any sparks when you did this?

JT2014

iTrader: (6)

nope, & it was working. I was adjusting the sub levels...then it stopped working. I had full power to everything in the car. Then went to start the car & it wouldn't start. Had to have it towed.
I know how to install this stuff, been doing it for years. So I'm just not sure what happened. Maybe my amp shorted out & caused it (it was used for several years), maybe my battery, maybe it was something in the car already....The wire taps I used I never had an issue with in other cars from not disconnecting the battery. The amp + was the last thing I connected. Hope to get my new amp in Saturday & will swap it out.

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Ah, that really is weird, since everything was working and then quit. Hope all goes well with the new amp. Keep us posted. I did my install last weekend, and I did the same as you - left the battery connected. I admit, it was out of sheer laziness on my part, and I was rushing as it was getting late and I was losing sunlight . I used the b41 harness, with 20/ 23-26. Luckily, everything worked out. Only issue i had was that the wiretaps I bought did not work. Ended up manually splicing in the RCA's and the remote wire.

JT2014

iTrader: (6)

I hate this car! All is good now. #22 or 20 didn't have enough power to turn on my Kicker amp. It did kick on with the sub harness but that blew things so I used the other wiring.
Had to run a remote wire to the 15amp lighter fuse under the drivers side kick panel.

CRiME

iTrader: (2)

Glad to see it's all sorted out. Yeah - for some reason, pin 22 didn't work for me either. I was only measuring about 1-2v out of it with my multimeter. Pin 20 provided ACC power. Guess these cars vary as far as what wire is suitable for a remote turn on.

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

The rear speaker outputs have very low volatge /output. I'd advise to only use the front speaker outputs