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Finished my Sub/Amp Install... Finally.

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Old 05-02-2014 | 02:58 PM
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Finished my Sub/Amp Install... Finally.

Hey everyone,

Im sure you saw my thread yesterday about needing help, well I figured it out for myself and just wanted to show you guys how I installed it and ran the wires.

I ran the power wire from the battery through the rubber that the wires run into the car through and used sealant to seal it so no water comes in when it rains. The easiest thing that I did and anyone could possibly do this is use wire to pull the power wire through and fish it all of the way to the back.


No need to take off the glove box, just the door sills along the side.


They have a very convenient opening that they run wire through to the back and you can use that area like I did as you see.


I don't have a picture but I had to pull out the bottom of the rear seat, it is very easy there are two pull tabs on either side where the seat meets the carpet and it just comes right out.


I fished the wire through the hole as seen which was the easier spot that I had seen and it worked out good for me.


You have to take off all of the trunk carpet which is easy. I used harness b41 for everything. I tapped into terminals #23-26 by cutting the ends of the RCA cable and wiring directly to them. I used #22 for the remote wire. I don't have pictures of that setup but if anyone needs it I can take some and show you guys.

UPDATE - PICTURES OF CONNECTION

Here is a picture of where the connect is. Its on the left side of the trunk. There are two connectors over there, it is the one on the right. Sorry for the ugliness, the blue connectors were used for the LOC but I snipped that out.


Here is what wires you have to tap into. I spliced my rca cable to expose the positive and ground wires that are inside for both Left and Right input and connected them according to this layout that is here.


Here is the finished result. The sub box I purchased from Custom Sub Enclosures on ebay and it fits very nice and is not obtrusive at all as you can see. I still have room in the trunk for everything. I just used velcro on the back of it to make sure it doesn't move around at all.



I am happy with the setup, the sub hits like a beast. It was hitting so hard that the LEDs that I put in to replace the factory dome lights came loose from the double sided tape and are vibrating, need to fix those.

If anyone has any questions, I would be glad to help.

Last edited by gsteigerwald; 05-07-2014 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 05-02-2014 | 11:32 PM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Just ordered the same box. looks like the power wire ran down the passenger side . I may reach out for info on the Connection
Old 05-03-2014 | 10:12 AM
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From: Austin Tx
Nice job man...it looks a lot like my setup
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Old 05-03-2014 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pebkac
Nice job man...it looks a lot like my setup
Thanks man, took me forever to do it. Did you use a LOC or did you just cut the RCA wire at an end and wire it directly into terminals 23-26? or did you go the 8 & 9 route?

@TazRider
Surely, not a problem at all just let me know if you have any questions
Old 05-03-2014 | 01:51 PM
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Scratch the whole LOC thing, thats why my sub wasn't hitting hard. I just spliced my RCA cables and took the LOC out and now this thing is hitting like a champ. I am now ecstatic about my new system in my car. I used terminals 23-26 also.

Last edited by gsteigerwald; 05-07-2014 at 04:59 PM.
Old 05-05-2014 | 08:07 AM
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From: Maryville, TN
is the factory signal not a good one? i have seen several people using LOCs
Old 05-05-2014 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 08Gsmith25
is the factory signal not a good one? i have seen several people using LOCs
When I had the LOC hooked up, the signal I was getting to my subs was very minimal and it was barely hitting at all. As soon as I removed the LOC and just tapped straight into terminals 23-26, it started hitting like a beast.
Old 05-05-2014 | 11:30 AM
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From: Maryville, TN
good deal. im not going to bother with one if i ever get around to installing my stuff. just cant decide between factory location replacement sub or using a regular box in the trunk (i only have one ten)
Old 05-05-2014 | 03:12 PM
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Someone in this section replaced the factory sub with a new one, G37AVI was his name i believe. As for the LOC, I think I may have not needed one because my amp can take either high or low inputs. I am not a sub/amp guru so I cannot tell you for sure. Others have also taken their connection from harness b43 terminals 8 & 9 also. I took 23-26 because I tapped into the wires before they went into the amp so the signal was not preprocessed or filtered out at all. Best of luck.
Old 05-05-2014 | 04:18 PM
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if you amp has high level inputs, you wont need an LOC. Most amps have a high input.
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Old 05-05-2014 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by blazeplacid
if you amp has high level inputs, you wont need an LOC. Most amps have a high input.
Yea I have the Kicker DX500.1 and it accepts both so I imagine that is why. Thanks for the clarification.
Old 05-06-2014 | 08:08 PM
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Great Job… Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!!
;-)
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Old 05-06-2014 | 11:31 PM
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not a problem at all, glad to help. I will be updating this thread tomorrow with pictures of tapping into the b41 wire harness.
Old 05-07-2014 | 02:53 PM
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Updated original post with images of connections!!!
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Old 05-13-2014 | 10:10 AM
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From: GEORGIA
does anybody have any pics of how they soldered their rca's? and did you just use self tappers for mounting the amp? if so, how long were they?



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