Finished my Sub/Amp Install... Finally.
#61
True, forgot to add that. What exactly is the issue that you're having, g37blueslate? Give us a little more information if possible, so that we can help you out a bit more.
#62
You've got a coupe, no? Unfortunately, the best opening that I could find in my sedan was similar to the one that gsteigerwald used.
#64
Glad I found one of these threads that is active and recent. I've learned a lot and now I'm ready to add a sub to my 2010 G37 sedan.
I ordered from customsubenclosures.com 9 days ago. It hasn't been a good experience so far. The guy doesn't answer emails and I have no idea how long its going to take. But it looks like a good product and I'm glad to see several others here have used and liked this guys enclosure. Now on to some questions...
I ordered from customsubenclosures.com 9 days ago. It hasn't been a good experience so far. The guy doesn't answer emails and I have no idea how long its going to take. But it looks like a good product and I'm glad to see several others here have used and liked this guys enclosure. Now on to some questions...
#65
I don't understand why people are using wires 23,24,25,26 on harness 41 which are the right and left rear full frequency signals from the head unit to the amp. Why not use wires 16 and 17 that go from the amp to the rear woofer?
- Doesn't using 23-26 affect the sound of the rear speakers?
- Would wires 16 and 17 be speaker level outputs or are they line level since they go to the woofer amp?
- I was thinking about just removing the factory woofer (1 10" in the 2010), which would create a port from the trunk to allow more bass through. Then I'd use the speaker level wires to the old sub into my new amp. Any thoughts on that?
- Doesn't using 23-26 affect the sound of the rear speakers?
- Would wires 16 and 17 be speaker level outputs or are they line level since they go to the woofer amp?
- I was thinking about just removing the factory woofer (1 10" in the 2010), which would create a port from the trunk to allow more bass through. Then I'd use the speaker level wires to the old sub into my new amp. Any thoughts on that?
#66
Sorry, just thought of a couple more questions:
- The sub and enclosure has to be removed to get to the spare tire, right? I'll probably use industrial velcro as is recommended
- Where is the best place to put the amp? I don't see any room in the spare tire compartment.
- The sub and enclosure has to be removed to get to the spare tire, right? I'll probably use industrial velcro as is recommended
- Where is the best place to put the amp? I don't see any room in the spare tire compartment.
#67
I don't understand why people are using wires 23,24,25,26 on harness 41 which are the right and left rear full frequency signals from the head unit to the amp. Why not use wires 16 and 17 that go from the amp to the rear woofer?
- Doesn't using 23-26 affect the sound of the rear speakers?
- Would wires 16 and 17 be speaker level outputs or are they line level since they go to the woofer amp?
- I was thinking about just removing the factory woofer (1 10" in the 2010), which would create a port from the trunk to allow more bass through. Then I'd use the speaker level wires to the old sub into my new amp. Any thoughts on that?
- Doesn't using 23-26 affect the sound of the rear speakers?
- Would wires 16 and 17 be speaker level outputs or are they line level since they go to the woofer amp?
- I was thinking about just removing the factory woofer (1 10" in the 2010), which would create a port from the trunk to allow more bass through. Then I'd use the speaker level wires to the old sub into my new amp. Any thoughts on that?
Cant offer much comment on your application as all my experience with with the coupe.
Last edited by RA081224; 12-11-2014 at 01:33 AM.
#68
Sorry, just thought of a couple more questions:
- The sub and enclosure has to be removed to get to the spare tire, right? I'll probably use industrial velcro as is recommended
- Where is the best place to put the amp? I don't see any room in the spare tire compartment.
- The sub and enclosure has to be removed to get to the spare tire, right? I'll probably use industrial velcro as is recommended
- Where is the best place to put the amp? I don't see any room in the spare tire compartment.
As for the amps, most integrate them into their sub cabinet or attach them to the back of the rear seat. A few of us have put them to the left and right of the spare tire but others have noted that on some models there is insufficient room to do this.
The following users liked this post:
smilinsteve (12-12-2014)
#70
I ordered from customsubenclosures.com 9 days ago. It hasn't been a good experience so far. The guy doesn't answer emails and I have no idea how long its going to take. But it looks like a good product and I'm glad to see several others here have used and liked this guys enclosure. Now on to some questions...
#71
Registered Member
iTrader: (11)
No prob. Check out mine, I installed it over the weekend. I had trouble getting a response after contacting them via email through their website or ebay as well so I just ordered one. They emailed me asking what sub I was using (10" Alpine SWS-1023d) to make sure they make one with enough airspace. They said it should fit a 2012 and they have free returns so I went for it. It sticks out a bit more than I expected but I'm really happy with it.
PS - Check their ebay store and make them an offer of $235, they'll prob accept.
PS - Check their ebay store and make them an offer of $235, they'll prob accept.
#73
As for 16 & 17 vs 23-26, when I was soldering in my RCA cables I actually tried both. I found that the output was abnormally high when using 16 & 17; even with my amp turned all the way down, the bass level was way too high and overpowered everything else. Switching to 23-26 solved the issue. This would support Absinthe's information that the signal from 16 & 17 has been processed to some degree while 23-26 provides a clean, flat signal.
#74
In my sedan, I put one of my amps here on the left side of the trunk. Apologies for the dirt, I had just finished that install prior to taking this picture:
As for 16 & 17 vs 23-26, when I was soldering in my RCA cables I actually tried both. I found that the output was abnormally high when using 16 & 17; even with my amp turned all the way down, the bass level was way too high and overpowered everything else. Switching to 23-26 solved the issue. This would support Absinthe's information that the signal from 16 & 17 has been processed to some degree while 23-26 provides a clean, flat signal.
As for 16 & 17 vs 23-26, when I was soldering in my RCA cables I actually tried both. I found that the output was abnormally high when using 16 & 17; even with my amp turned all the way down, the bass level was way too high and overpowered everything else. Switching to 23-26 solved the issue. This would support Absinthe's information that the signal from 16 & 17 has been processed to some degree while 23-26 provides a clean, flat signal.
Looks like a good spot for the amp Thanks!
#75
The third pic is taken of the area on the drivers side of the spare tire well. Both the spare and the plastic "shelf" have been removed. The silver box in front of the amp is the camera control unit for the backup camera. Actually, there are two amps behind the camera control unit. The third amp is on the other side of the spare tire