If you look here at 0:22, you will see lines but it is throughout the display and only when displaying the factory screen....it goes away when using an app on the tablet. The app you are using is directly on the nexus 7, correct? Not from another device?

https://youtu.be/kazL_tU8Lfk

 

yeah i get those lines when i plug the composite from the weiya to my large tv which i think is normal.


i talked to andy with febon and he thinks it might be the uvc100. i just sent it back and he is sending me a different model to try. it is definitely an issue with the febon and weiya though. i get the same line of distortion on the right side when displaying it on my computer via a webcam app as well.

 

Hello guys, I really need help before I give up on this.

My car is a 2010 Infiniti g37s with Bose Audio Without Navigation system.

The terminal layout reference I use is (Page 252):
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Coupe/2010/AV.pdf

First question in mind, the WEIYA CV-04, should it be set in PAL or NTSC ?

The Wiring is almost the same, If I'm not wrong it should be this way:

Terminal Pin 17 = Red -> WEIYA Pin 1
Terminal Pin 6 = Green -> WEIYA Pin 2
Terminal Pin 18 = Blue -> WEIYA Pin 3
Terminal Pin 14 = Signal Ground -> WEIYA Pin 4
Terminal Pin 19 = Sync -> WEIYA Pin 5


Now I have used to easycap but I got a fake one with wrong chip so temporally I test from my laptop since it have the driver.
I tested the easycap using my tv terminal and I was able to watch the tv from my laptop using VLC player, so this work.

I use an external power source for the WEIYA board using 12v.

I have jumped the wire from the back on the Terminal and the stock screen is still working.

I believe everything is in place but I only have black screen no display.

What can be wrong ?

 

Ok guys so I was able to figure out on my own.

Apparently my power source was the issue, the WEIYA documentaion mention the board work under 8 to 15 volt. My power supply was 12 volt .. not sure why it didnt work. maybe the amperage ?

I tried to hookup the power from the terminal like in the original post, its a 9 volt output so enough to power the device.

Using this as power source I am now able to ge the display yeah !!

Testing from PAL to NTSC i can see that PAL display kind of gray/white image while NMTSC display colored image. Of course because of the signal transformation we lose a bit of picture quality but I can deal with this.

Still need to do, the camera display since it use it own composite signal, i see in the tread somewhere someone used a composite splitter and was able to make the rear camera to work, so ill work on this in a bit and do clean wire splice.

 

Does anyone know the part number for this? It does not have to be factory, it could be after market.

 

So I believe I have a solution to have the rear camera pop up instantly when you put the car in reverse.

The idea here is to use the reverse signal wire as a trigger:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Coupe/2010/AV.pdf
Infiniti 2010 - BOSE AUDIO WITHOUT NAVIGATION
Pin 94 - AV-248

Using a 12v relay like this:
12V High Level 1 Channel Relay Module Trigger Expansion Board for Arduino Relays | eBay

The idea is to have a usb extension cord connected to the usb-hub.

On the extension connect a cheap usb key.

The usb cable have 4 wire, cut the power or gnd ( red or black doesn't matter ) and connect it to the relay.

Connect the 12v relay to the pin 94 and ground it somewhere ex pin 20 or 18 what ever is closes to you.

When you hit the reverse this will trigger the relay that will power up the usb key, the tablet will now mount the usb key.

Using tasker app, configure a trigger when the usb key is present to open dashcam app and when disconnected close the app.

I haven't tested yet but im sure this will work, ill test later on and will get back with the result.

 

I'm almost done with this project, yesterday I did the hard mount installation.

Originally I only had the wires that goes into the board cut.

For the permanent install I decided to also cut the wire for the rear cam

Wire 4 and 15, after that I start having wierd display when I put the car in reverse. the rear cam work but there's the guide line that were all messed up.

After some troubleshooting I found out that the wire 15 need to stay connected to the terminal.


Now I only have 1 issue left to figure out.

Here's my remark, All the wire for RGB G S for the stock screen are cut.
Means stock screen works no more.

Only the wire 15 (composite signal) is still connected to the terminal.

When I put the car in reverse the stock screen will then display the rear cam. But will also have black line to guide you.

While on my tablet I will also have the rear cam + guided line in color.

I think the guided line are provided by the RBG signal and it is added on top of the composite signal of the rear cam. So it would explain why on the stock screen the line are black and on the tablet is color.

Now my problem is that for the first 5 sec the rear cam and line are clean after 5 sec it become yellow-ish, still clean display but somewhat yellow.

Anyone have a clue how to fix this ? Ill post a video later to demonstrate.

 

Did you fix the yellow-ish problem eventually?

 

tab s2
6.0.1

 

I connected the wires directly to the weiya Cv-04 board. However, is the wires still supposed to still be connected to the LCD board as well?

My Nexus 7 2013 couldn't detect anything. I tried using DashCam and CameraFi app.

 

I am stuck in this same situation. Please Help

 

Hey guys,

By reading the factory service manual extensively, I just figured out how to do this on my '08 G37S Bose with Navigation. It's a bit different from OP, who had a Bose without Navigation.

The key difference is in pin 19, the RGB sync signal. For Bose without Navigation, this is is the signal coming from the AV unit to the display:

Notice the voltage levels is around 4V for high, and 0 for low. I believe this type of sync signal is what they call "TTL" (Transistor to Transistor Logic - i.e. nominally 5V meaning high, 0V meaning low).


However, for Bose WITH Navigation, the sync signal is instead this:

Notice the voltage is now only 0.4V for high. I *think* this is the other type of sync signal, the 75ohm sync.


If you look at the specs for the Weiya CV-04, it specifically says the input RGB Sync needs to be TTL and 5.0VPP. Therefore, the 0.4V high on the 75ohm sync signal is not going to work as a 'high' for TTL.



Fortunately, the display OUTPUTS TTL Vertical (pin20) and Horizontal Sync (pin8) signals back to the AV unit. I believe these are needed when the car is in reverse, where the display needs to synchronize a) the backup cam image and steering guide lines coming from the camera unit, with b) the words "check surroundings..." coming from the AV unit. Note that the display is always outputting Vsync and Hsync back to the AV unit, regardless of the car being in reverse or not. However, this Vsync and Hsync needs to match the sync from the AV -> display. So the signal wire for pin19 needs to remain connected.



Another difference with my car and the OP's is that my car has pin13 as ground, instead of pin14. But you can actually use any ground (even the bare metal or car body).
So, the way to wire up to the Weiya-CV04 on my car would be:

Note the wires for pin 8 and 20 must connect: a) AV unit, b) display, and c) Weiya.

One last thing I learned is that - whenever you change wires to put into the Weiya, sometimes the Weiya may not respond appropriately. It's helpful to unplug and re-plug power to the Weiya to 'restart' it.

 

Hi guys, I have a 08 G35S and was wondering if there is anyway of getting the output of the OEM screen onto a different screen via HDMI or RGB? I am planning on installing the Alpine iLX-F309 and am trying to figure out of it was possible to display the OEM info on the F309 via one of the inputs.

https://www.cartoys.com/amfile/file/...oduct_id/6388/

Looks like it has HDMI and AUX Input.

Thoughts?

 

I am not sure on the 08 but I know that if I were to try this on my '12, i would need to connect the WEIYA CV-04 to the aux input using the yellow video input cable plugged into the interface cable.

 

So still splicing the same cables as mentioned by OP etc? or completely cutting them out? Could you elaborate which ones I would need to cut etc? Appreciate it....