Ok. So high end 6s or 8s In the rear deck, a sub in the trunk, and new amps all around it shall be

 

Don't mistake ripping and converting. All rips are lossless.

We all see phrases like "rip to MP3" or "rip to FLAC," but those are really describing two distinct steps: Ripping, which is designed to be error-free and lossless, and conversion, which can be to a lossy format like MP3 or to a lossless compressed format like FLAC or APE.

For example, Exact Audio Copy rips a track from CD, storing it as a lossless, uncompressed WAV file. Then, only after the rip completes, it passes the WAV file to a codec (short for "coder-decoder") such as LAME (for MP3) or FLAC. It can be configured to keep the original WAV file or delete it after the codec finishes.

 

Hmmm. Would you say the conversion is good with EAC?

 

It's the best (and it's free).

EAC uses external codecs (which are .exe files). You can pass any parameters that you choose. Here's a good page on setting it up with the best MP3 codec (called LAME):EAC and LAME

You can do presets, so you might have one for audiobooks that makes them into really small, low bitrate MP3 files. You might have another for very high quality VBR (variable bitrate) MP3 files for use on MP3 CDs that you rip for your G37. A third might be for good, but not great, quality MP3 files for a portable MP3 player you use at the gym. You might have a preset for lossless FLAC files to play on your computer; now that 1TB hard drives are around $60, why compromise the sound to make the files smaller?

But the big thing about EAC is that it does error-free rips. Many other rippers just stream whatever comes off the CD without checking for errors. EAC checks for errors using multiple, advanced means, and makes all possible efforts to reread the discs to eliminate the errors.

Without me derailing this discussion further, check it out when you get a chance: Exact Audio Copy FAQ

 

Prayer?

 

Indeed....

 

So i just finished reading this thread...any good 6x9 substitutes for the subwoofer? Looking to upgrade that if not a trunk mounted 12" sub

 

IMHO there are no suitable 6" X 9" drivers that will ever work as a subwoofer. At best, Id figure a 6X9 would works as a low mid-range partly due to its non-symmetrical cone, puny motor structure and flimsy surrounds.


In the coupe, given the size of the drivers and the sound emanating from each, I'm pretty sure that the subs are actually in the door (snicker) and the woofers are in the rear deck (outright laughter) Moving the low bass closer to the driver isn't all that bad of an idea given the capabilities of the Bose system. Once you dump the amps for something with some umph, the necessity of keeping the subs in the door is greatly minimized. While if I had the $$ Id go with a 6" or 8" woofer in the rear deck with a fiberglass baffle behind the driver; for now I've installed infinity kappa 6"X9" drivers in place of the Bose speakers and constructed a braced fiberglass enclosure around the rear of the speakers. I apply a bandpass filter to the drivers at 100hz - 350hz which keeps them from over driving, bottoming out, etc . Its a serious compromise but works for what I had on hand.