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Replacing stock Bose in G37 with Morels, need advice

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:53 AM
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pkim4
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Replacing stock Bose in G37 with Morels, need advice

Im in the middle of a complete system overhaul of my 2009 G37 Sedan and am looking for advice. Im keeping the stock HU and plan on running an Audison Bit One to clean up the sound. Installing Morel Elate 603 3-ways in the front powered by the Alpine PDX-F6. May add a Jl 10w6 with an Alpine Monoamp later.

My question has to do with the stock speaker locations. I want to keep the car as OEM as possible (or at least not make any permanent mods that I can return to OEM later). The 3 inch mid is in a perfect location, however the tweeter sail and midbass placement in the doors are horrible! Im at a loss as what to do about it

Tweeter:
Anyone have experience modifying or replacing the tweeter sail panel so that they can be angled in instead of facing each other? I dont mind off axis placement of the tweeters but the problem with that is half of the sound waves from the tweeter will be blocked by the A-piller. Putting them on the A-pillar doesnt seem to be an option because the side defrost vent is there and mounting the tweeters above the vent would make them sit too far away from the mid.

Midbass:
The 6 inch Morel midbass location is also very bad. I will have to jury rig a way to mount it in the stock 10inch woofer location, however the opening itself is barley the size of the speaker. Next, because this is supposed to be a sub location the speaker holes in the grille itself are way too small (especially noticeable compared to the mid speaker grille holes). If that wasent bad enough a third of the speaker grill is soild and is blocking additional sound from the speaker. Anyone find a good way around this? Im thinking about ordering a spare pair of OEM speaker grilles and modifying them by cutting out the middle and stretching out speaker mesh over it.

I love this car but it seems that all the cards are stacked against me in trying to put a nice system in it.

Hope someone can provide some advice on a way out of these limitations!
Old 01-07-2013, 04:50 PM
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blazeplacid
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for adapters that fit in the factory locations and look good go to

PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made

I installed a set of CDT Es-06 Mid basses and LPG NF25 tweeters using the adapters they have.
The sound is great.

Does it sound as good as custom kick panels....no.

When you set up the bit one the time alignment may help clean up some of the issues you are worried about.

i picked up a bit ten d the other day and it made a night and day difference from the RF 3sixty I had in before.

take your time installing and dont rush.

it took me a good 2 months from pulling the head unit to get signal from the speaker wires, running power wire, drilling the molex, buying equipment, installing equipment, time alignment, install issues, etc.

once you get started you'll see this car is no different than any other.
Old 01-15-2013, 05:11 AM
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pkim4
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Thanks for the reply blazeplacid! I finished the initial install and will upload pics if I can figure out how.

For the front 3 ways I installed everything in the stock locations. The tweeter and mid fit perfectly. Although the hole for the tweeter was smaller than the morel tweeter which was unexpected. I used mdf to cut out a mount for the 6 inchers. I placed it as best as I could but as I thought the top curve of the speaker is covered up by the grill and I couldnt place it any lower because the metal guard for the window is in the way.

I'll have to think about how I can modify it further. I guess my only options is to order a replacement grill and use it as a template and cut out the middle of it then put on some speaker mesh. Or as you suggested fabricate a custom kicker panel. The only reason I dont want to do this is I know I want to eventually trade in the car and I dont know what affect it will have on my ability to trade-in/sell.

I asked a friend of mine about leaving the 6 inch location stock but he said I should do something about the speaker being blocked because the speaker will eventually be messed up because of the sound waves being blocked and bounced back.

I havent gotten in depth with the settings with the Bit One yet but it sounds SO much better than the stick Bose system! The Audison Bit One was really expensive but with just initial settings Im very glad I decided to go with it. Im sure the Bit Ten is just as good with lesser channels!
Old 01-15-2013, 01:15 PM
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blazeplacid
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The Audison engineers got it right with their processors. Easy to set up and great sound.

Have you set your time alignment?
I had to mess with mine for a few day until I liked the settings.
Old 01-15-2013, 02:39 PM
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bachelor
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I'm going with the 8" Elate kit in the stock locations, hope it sounds good.
Old 01-15-2013, 03:40 PM
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gizmo134
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Originally Posted by pkim4
Thanks for the reply blazeplacid! I finished the initial install and will upload pics if I can figure out how.

For the front 3 ways I installed everything in the stock locations. The tweeter and mid fit perfectly. Although the hole for the tweeter was smaller than the morel tweeter which was unexpected. I used mdf to cut out a mount for the 6 inchers. I placed it as best as I could but as I thought the top curve of the speaker is covered up by the grill and I couldnt place it any lower because the metal guard for the window is in the way.

I'll have to think about how I can modify it further. I guess my only options is to order a replacement grill and use it as a template and cut out the middle of it then put on some speaker mesh. Or as you suggested fabricate a custom kicker panel. The only reason I dont want to do this is I know I want to eventually trade in the car and I dont know what affect it will have on my ability to trade-in/sell.

I asked a friend of mine about leaving the 6 inch location stock but he said I should do something about the speaker being blocked because the speaker will eventually be messed up because of the sound waves being blocked and bounced back.

I havent gotten in depth with the settings with the Bit One yet but it sounds SO much better than the stick Bose system! The Audison Bit One was really expensive but with just initial settings Im very glad I decided to go with it. Im sure the Bit Ten is just as good with lesser channels!
Did you put your tweeter inside the sail, or cut a hole through it to fit it?
And +1 on the Bit One, its probably the best money I've ever spent on anything audio related. Where did you put the processor/amps? And how about your DRC?
Old 01-16-2013, 10:32 PM
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dillyyo
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Originally Posted by pkim4
Thanks for the reply blazeplacid! I finished the initial install and will upload pics if I can figure out how.

For the front 3 ways I installed everything in the stock locations. The tweeter and mid fit perfectly. Although the hole for the tweeter was smaller than the morel tweeter which was unexpected. I used mdf to cut out a mount for the 6 inchers. I placed it as best as I could but as I thought the top curve of the speaker is covered up by the grill and I couldnt place it any lower because the metal guard for the window is in the way.

I'll have to think about how I can modify it further. I guess my only options is to order a replacement grill and use it as a template and cut out the middle of it then put on some speaker mesh. Or as you suggested fabricate a custom kicker panel. The only reason I dont want to do this is I know I want to eventually trade in the car and I dont know what affect it will have on my ability to trade-in/sell.

I asked a friend of mine about leaving the 6 inch location stock but he said I should do something about the speaker being blocked because the speaker will eventually be messed up because of the sound waves being blocked and bounced back.

I havent gotten in depth with the settings with the Bit One yet but it sounds SO much better than the stick Bose system! The Audison Bit One was really expensive but with just initial settings Im very glad I decided to go with it. Im sure the Bit Ten is just as good with lesser channels!
Not sure why you would want to angle the tweeters being as they are so close to you in that car. If you are using time alignment, the amplitude in that tweeter would need to be taken down also. Remember, you're talking a ~1in dome tweet which beams the most out of all your other speakers. With my Dyn setup that I had in my last G, and having installed in my current G, I will almost certainly keep the dome in the sail. My conflict is whether to drop my mid dome down in the stocks kicks, off axis or to put them where I had them last, recessed into the upper door body. With the deep foot wells and narrow interior of this car, I'm not sure that custom kicks would be very beneficial. Also, the fact that the mid and tweet are so closely spaced, you run into less coherency problems.

IMO your addition of a 6.5 down in that door is a waste. Not only do you have a smaller cone diameter, which will tend to beam certain frequencies, whereas a larger surface area mid bass would not. But, you also get a smaller speaker that will use motor/cone excursion in order to compensate for production of lower midbass frequencies. I had 10in mid basses in the doors and if they were reinforced better, I could have turned off the IB subs I had behind the rear seats.
Old 01-17-2013, 09:24 AM
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blazeplacid
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Originally Posted by bachelor
I'm going with the 8" Elate kit in the stock locations, hope it sounds good.
NICE!
post pics
Old 01-17-2013, 09:28 AM
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blazeplacid
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Originally Posted by gizmo134
Did you put your tweeter inside the sail, or cut a hole through it to fit it?
And +1 on the Bit One, its probably the best money I've ever spent on anything audio related. Where did you put the processor/amps? And how about your DRC?
I used the factory mounting spot.
I posted a link for a site that makes custom tweeter mounts for our cars.
they worked great and are cheap.
I think it was under $20 shipped.

im thinking of mounting the processor behind the carpet near the tail lights.
Probably gonna cut a piece of MDF and mount it to the wood. Nothing fancy as no one will ever see it.

Amp is going to be mounted next to the sub box. I'm more about the sound vs a fancy trunk layout.

DRC is going to be mounted next to the steering wheel. There is a little piece of aluminum im going to apply velcro to. Then route the wire through the sterring column and back to the processor.

thats the plan at least
Old 01-17-2013, 09:19 PM
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bachelor
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:07 AM
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pkim4
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Hey Bachelor, cant wait to see how your 8s turn out. The 6's just fit depth-wise with a mdf spacer in my door. Your tweeter sails look sweet, they look like they are placed off axis firing straight out. Are you just pulling out the tweeter to help with the undersized tweeter hole and the A-pillar being in the way? Until I can do a nice job like yours, I drilled out the sail and just glued in the tweeters on the the sail with one of the morel tweeter cups and slightly angled it towards the cabin. This helped with the highs and raised the soundstage from the area around the stock headunit and up a foot so it is now on the windshield.

Dont know if doing anything with the 6's is worth it from reading what Dillyyo said.
Old 01-20-2013, 07:42 PM
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bachelor
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Hey!

Yeah they angled the tweeters a bit to help with the soundstage, the rest of the components are going in stock locations with the exception of the crossover (not sure where thats going yet). I was shocked that there were no depth issues with the 8". I've also paired the 2 way Elate kit for the rear, its overkill but I wanted to stay within the same series. I'm also going to be spraying that greenish tweeter cover black, not sure why Morel chose army green as their color of choice.
Old 01-21-2013, 06:30 PM
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gizmo134
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Originally Posted by blazeplacid
I used the factory mounting spot.
I posted a link for a site that makes custom tweeter mounts for our cars.
they worked great and are cheap.
I think it was under $20 shipped.

im thinking of mounting the processor behind the carpet near the tail lights.
Probably gonna cut a piece of MDF and mount it to the wood. Nothing fancy as no one will ever see it.

Amp is going to be mounted next to the sub box. I'm more about the sound vs a fancy trunk layout.

DRC is going to be mounted next to the steering wheel. There is a little piece of aluminum im going to apply velcro to. Then route the wire through the sterring column and back to the processor.

thats the plan at least

Oh awesome, ill have to check those out. I drilled out like 80 more of the little holes in the stock ones over the weekend, which helped quite a bit.
That sounds like a good plan for the bitone, as long as you dont have heavy stuff flying around your trunk too often that could hit it. Although its pretty solid anyway.. haha
One thing to check, the DRC wire didnt have the most slack when I put mine in, so it might be something to take into consideration when you place it. Either way, itl all be worth it when its done!
Old 01-24-2013, 08:20 AM
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pkim4
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Gonna have someone fabricate some tweeters in the sail panel this weekend. Also I think earlier you asked about where I put everything. I left the bose amp alone incase I ever want to rip everything out and sell the car in the future. As for the bit one I removed the rear deck 10 inch sub and used a piece of mdf to mount the unit on that where the sub used to be.

I did have another question though. Is anyone who is using the bit one or the bit 10 having to turn the master volume on the bit one program all the way up? I didnt think this was a problem but on some songs with highs, especially high female vocals, I get high distortion and trembling of the sound coming form the tweeters. After some discusion I found out that its because the HU volume is too high, but the bit one master volume is already almost all the way up. It seems that the input signal from the OEM headunit is really weak and I have to turn up the master volume on the bitone program to compensate. But this causes the highs to distort.

Has anyone else experienced this?
Old 01-24-2013, 04:34 PM
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gizmo134
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Hm, thats strange. When you set the Bit one up, you play the included CD at full volume, and the software will either OK it or tell you to turn it down because of clipping. I had none of those issues at full volume, so I don't think its the headunit. I do, however, usually run the bit one master volume at full and just use the HU for volume control. My suggestion would be to connect an external source to one of the other bit inputs, and see if it still does it. Id guess it to either be the amps or tweeters or something, the HU output seems to be clean. Then again, I think were coming to the conclusion that all of the headunits are slightly different, so its hard to say.


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