Sound Upgrade Options
12-03-2012, 09:09 PM
#16
Can you please explain how you replaced the Stock Bose amp for the aftermarket amp. I have too run my amps off of the factory bose amp too get a signal from the factory Navi Headunit.
Sound processor placed where Bose amps used to be.
Looks messy, and it is. But this is how you can go about tapping into the Bose system for your after market audio setups.
12-03-2012, 10:40 PM
#17
Ron James,
Did you have any mounting depth issues with those Focals? Also did you make your own adapter for the 6.5 woofer?
Duff,
Can you repost your pictures in a larger size, they are coming out very small.
Did you have any mounting depth issues with those Focals? Also did you make your own adapter for the 6.5 woofer?
Duff,
Can you repost your pictures in a larger size, they are coming out very small.
12-03-2012, 11:47 PM
#18
Click on them for high res, should work
12-04-2012, 03:32 AM
#19
I had it done at a shop but all they did was run the wires from the harness that went into the Bose amp into the new amp. The output from the head unit is full range. When the Cleansweep was installed afterwards, the output was wired into the Cleansweep then from the Cleansweep into the amp. You can find the wiring diagrams on this site 
12-04-2012, 12:18 PM
#20
12-04-2012, 12:32 PM
#21
I have mine set using the headunit/steering wheel for volume control but set the Cleansweep at about 80% of max so I don't hear any hiss at all. As for distortion...there is none at all even at full volume. These speakers are amazing. The only thing to watch for is that the speakers will pick up imperfections in the source that you wouldn't hear with lesser speakers. You can clearly hear the difference between mp3s encoded at 128 and those encoded at 320 and above. Best sound is with uncompressed, or cd.
12-05-2012, 11:46 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
12-05-2012, 11:50 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
So at minimum for what your trying to do, you need: A Line level converter. Take your speaker wires from the head unit, run them into the converter => turn them into RCA's => Send RCA's to the amp and run speaker wires to the speakers, this is easy. You will need to build some custom speaker baffles to house your new speaks in the 10 inch holes in the doors. I just did this and will post pics soon.
Great bang for your buck components Infinity Kappa Perfects. Sound quality out of these is great. Suggest a Class A/B amp for components, here is one I use JL 360/2.
If you remove the 10's from the doors and put 6 1/2's in I think you may lose a decent amount of base. Honestly probably not worth the hassle. Your head unit is designed to send crappy sound signals to the crappy cardboard Bose speakers. Even putting nice speakers running on a nice amp you are still just retransmitting a bad signal from the head unit.
What I'm recommending is start looking into something like a sound processor, and an EQ. I spent a lot of time looking around and ended up getting a 3sixty.3. This will clean up the speaker signals from the head unit and let you adjust a 31 band EQ to your liking, plus it has a built in line level converter. There is a few on Ebay for $450. This is a semi complicated device if you are not familiar with tuning much beyond "base" and "treble". I will soon be making a DIY with many pictures on how to install this with high end amps/components/subs. Possibly a tuning tutorial write up or video as well.
Another thing to check out JBL MS-8. This may give you that extra punch you feel your system needs and is very easy to install. May want to check with other G owners who have this installed. See what they think of the Bose speakers running on the MS-8. I ignored this device because I think the Bose speakers are below my audio standard at this point and will be replacing or disconnecting them all. Also from what I have read Bose and all other car audio don't play nicely with each other. Research this option thoroughly if your considering it.
Great bang for your buck components Infinity Kappa Perfects. Sound quality out of these is great. Suggest a Class A/B amp for components, here is one I use JL 360/2.
If you remove the 10's from the doors and put 6 1/2's in I think you may lose a decent amount of base. Honestly probably not worth the hassle. Your head unit is designed to send crappy sound signals to the crappy cardboard Bose speakers. Even putting nice speakers running on a nice amp you are still just retransmitting a bad signal from the head unit.
What I'm recommending is start looking into something like a sound processor, and an EQ. I spent a lot of time looking around and ended up getting a 3sixty.3. This will clean up the speaker signals from the head unit and let you adjust a 31 band EQ to your liking, plus it has a built in line level converter. There is a few on Ebay for $450. This is a semi complicated device if you are not familiar with tuning much beyond "base" and "treble". I will soon be making a DIY with many pictures on how to install this with high end amps/components/subs. Possibly a tuning tutorial write up or video as well.
Another thing to check out JBL MS-8. This may give you that extra punch you feel your system needs and is very easy to install. May want to check with other G owners who have this installed. See what they think of the Bose speakers running on the MS-8. I ignored this device because I think the Bose speakers are below my audio standard at this point and will be replacing or disconnecting them all. Also from what I have read Bose and all other car audio don't play nicely with each other. Research this option thoroughly if your considering it.
12-06-2012, 12:12 AM
#25
This may sound like a dumb question, but why would you replace the stock 10" in the doors with smaller 6 1/2"? I noticed a lot of guys on this posting are using the Focals? Is this the best sounding speaker brand and size? Is there any other speaker or tweeter options?
12-08-2012, 02:13 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Focals are high end and expensive, many other options are available though. I have a sound quality setup and Focals are amazing for that. A 10" sub will not really fit in the door. Bose's 10 inch in the door is very shallow, 2 inches or so. Most 10" are 4-5 inchs deep at least and would hit the window and vibrate your door like crazy. You can put anything in the door as long as it clears the window and doesn't hit the back of the door panel on the inside. Pushing beyond a 6 1/2, besides the rattle issue which may occur, may start to get tricky with space issues.
Last edited by SkylineV36; 12-08-2012 at 02:20 AM.
12-08-2012, 08:10 PM
#27
2 5/8 inch is the mounted depth of my speakers, which are mounted on 3/4 inch mdf. The mdf is mounted straight against the doors sheet metal, as I removed the plastic mounting plate the bose speaker screws into. Really I can't see there being an issue with any 6.5-6.75 inch speaker setup.
12-09-2012, 11:51 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
2 5/8 inch is the mounted depth of my speakers, which are mounted on 3/4 inch mdf. The mdf is mounted straight against the doors sheet metal, as I removed the plastic mounting plate the bose speaker screws into. Really I can't see there being an issue with any 6.5-6.75 inch speaker setup.
01-01-2013, 05:08 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
2 5/8 inch is the mounted depth of my speakers, which are mounted on 3/4 inch mdf. The mdf is mounted straight against the doors sheet metal, as I removed the plastic mounting plate the bose speaker screws into. Really I can't see there being an issue with any 6.5-6.75 inch speaker setup.