iron chariots

ok, i just traded my '08 g35 for an '11 g37 sedan. i already know that the gear that i have will work in the g37 but i'm not sure about some of the steps i need to do to install them. i would try to find a install shop but the one that did the install on my g35 did a half assed job. i have a basic understanding of car stereo installation. i looked at my other install and have a good idea of how most of it was done. here is a thread that i've been following for an idea of how i want to go about my own install diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/132157-charliekwins-2007-g35-sedan-build-log.html

i want to leave the bose amp hooked up to the center and rear speakers but change the front stage speakers and sub. i want to use two separate installs that i've seen on diy mobile audio as a guide but one thread is about three years old and i don't think that the guy who started follows it anymore.

here is a list of the gear that i used in my g35 that i'm going to put in the 37:

elate 9's with the crossover (fits in stock locations)
3sixty.2
alpine pdx v9 (100 watts x4, 500 for sub)
custom made sub box

here are the questions that i have:

1. does the color code for the speaker wires listed in the sticky also apply to the sedan?

2. for anyone who installed a 3sixty did you capture the signal from the head unit for the front stage before it reached the bose amp amp?

3. did you use the output speaker wires from the bose amp to hook up and aftemarket amp to the front stage so that you didn't have to run additional wiring? the way that i understand there is no extra space in the driver's side molex that can be used for speaker wires. if so, what is the wattage of the amp that you used?

4. are there two separate sets of wires running to the front stage, one just for the sub/midbass and another for the midrange and tweeter?

5. for anyone who replaced the bose tweeter with an aftermarket tweeter did you use a bracket of some kind to hold it in place?

hinomura

iTrader: (4)

Hey man I also have the '11 Sedan and I installed an aftermarket sub myself:

1. The wiring diagram on the DIY sticky is for the coupe only. It's out there, took me about 2 hours of internet research, but there is a diagram for the '11 sedan audio wiring. I'll try to see if I can find the copy on my PC. I might have saved the PDF locally, no guarantees though.

2. I didn't install something as fancy, just a line out converter but I did splice right into the feed between the head unit BEFORE it hits the amp in the trunk. Worked out perfectly.
3. I didn't mess w/ any internal speakers so I cannot comment.
4. If I recall there are two separate runs, one for the internal speakers and one for the sub. They are just wrapped w/ electrical tape but once you unwrap the tape the individual speaker wires are all color coded so it makes sense.
5. Same as #3.

Once you find the wiring diagrams it's pretty easy. The only other issue I ran into while installing my sub was trying to find an appropriate grounding stud. The engineers apparently were too retarded to forecast a customer installing an aftermarket amp so I had to ghetto rig one. (If anyone knows of where a good OEM grounding stud is in the 2011 sedan trunk then please advise because I would like to use it instead of my ghetto stud). The best bet would be to go to a local audio shop and ask them to install one for you using a stud welder, I can't imagine it costing more than $20-30 bucks max. I've never asked so I don't really know how much it will cost to install.

Ghetto Stud Directions:
1. Remove paneling from underside of rear deck in trunk.
2. Find pre-existing holes and opening in the rear deck: there should be a rounded rectangular opening next to a slot on the right side if you are facing the trunk.
3. Drop a bolt through the slot by first pushing it up and through the rectangular opening then dropping it down through the slot.
4. Note where the bolt is then sand off all the paint where you plan to locate that bolt permanently.
5. Attach ground wire from amp and secure using serrated flange nut/ hex nylon locknut / or regular nut with a locking washer.
6. Ignore these directions if someone can recommend a better grounding stud.

Good luck with your install.

91dx

iTrader: (1)

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G37/Sedan/2010/AV.pdf

pg.397, if you have bose and nav. If you don't I'm sure the wiring diagram is somewhere in there also.

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...diagram-s.html

iron chariots

this might be a stupid question but are all of the wires that are plugged into the bose amp have specifically for the audio system or do some of the wires also have other functions? i'm trying to make sure before i start cutting any wires. without having looked at the amp closely i would guess that there are 12 wires on the input side of the bose amp and 14 on the output side. is this close?

blazeplacid

iTrader: (1)

do not cut into any wires!!

use positaps or something similar

the audio ususally only has one function.
There maybe a speed sensor wire but that should be closer to the headunit

iron chariots

i just looked online and saw four different types on this website Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap. what kind are the best to use and can i use them to bypass the incoming and outgoing signal on the bose amp for the front channel?

lkoh

It may be a little far (24"?) for some people but when I first did my audio install, I initially used the rear seat bolt as a ground point. I felt it was a little beefier than the rear deck lid



I finally decided to bring my grounding point (battery) into the trunk