Weird electrical problem with coupe
08-22-2011 | 02:28 PM
#16
Possibly. Since you do have an aftermarket stereo that pulls a ton more power than the system is designed for, it's very likely that they may not. If they don't that's reasonable. Replacing it with another one exactly like it might give you the same results you're getting now though sooner or later. I'm not sure but I'd guess our alternator is rated at 125-135 amps. Get it built.
08-22-2011 | 05:20 PM
#17
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Hmmm this isn't good, i don't even listen to my music that loud, I don't ever play sh!thop or rap whatever that nonsense, how dommost ppl here get away with it having a stock alternator in their car?
08-22-2011 | 06:41 PM
#18
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And, its also inevitable that they will blow an alternator someday as well. My first system was in a beretta GT, alternator lasted long enough for me to forget thinking about it.....then it died while I was 500 miles from home.
Second system was in a Honda Accord, luckily I was able to get a sweet deal on a heavy duty built alternator from someone parting out. Since it *looked* like a factory unit I brought it to an alternator place to have it tested. Their bench test maxed out at 160 amps, and my new alternator stalled the machine so it was at least 160 amps (and it was rated for 180 constant so that makes sense). Not a cheap option but if you plan on keeping the system and the car for a while.....
08-22-2011 | 07:24 PM
#19
Wierd i have been having a problem with nx window.switch.
When id was gettimg my nx system retuned, them system would engage & then just cut in & out with no logical explanation. Then we bypassed window rpms switch & it worked fine.
After further checking, we realize them stock coils are affected by various loads placed on them system.
Im going with a tach adapter to give it uninterupted voltage.
Was told late model electrical systems are under a huge load just from factory options.
When id was gettimg my nx system retuned, them system would engage & then just cut in & out with no logical explanation. Then we bypassed window rpms switch & it worked fine.
After further checking, we realize them stock coils are affected by various loads placed on them system.
Im going with a tach adapter to give it uninterupted voltage.
Was told late model electrical systems are under a huge load just from factory options.
08-23-2011 | 05:30 AM
#20
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Im a certified MECP installer and ran one of the busiest Best Buy install bays in the nation. . . Sounds like your alternator is going bad. . . Once your car is running your battery is no longer being used you can start your car, take your battery out put it on the side walk and drive until you run out of gas or need to turn the car off, battery is only used to run electronics while in on/acc position and to start the car! The other large gauge (thick) cable on your battery positive side is going to your starter and another to your alternator so once car is running your alternator can re charge your battery. Since you are using a JL 500.1 which is a pretty good amp it runs at almost whats called "true power" which pulls a good amount of amperage i.e. AMP the installer should have recommended a capacitor or a CAP to save the alternator novices think its to save battery but its to save alternator. . .
+1! That's exactly what it is.
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