Haha. No worries. I was just making sure I wasn't missing something when you said that .

I've got 10 speakers to power so I needed a lot of amps to push them all.

 

Wow...I wish I was this talented...Could you PM me cost? Minus the cost of audio (subs, amps, ect) Mainly just CarPC, software, ect..

 

^me too please?

 

id like to know how you got the custom guages on the oem screen :P i too dont have nav, but would love to have my rpms / speed show on the screen haha

 

Well the way that I integrated with the factory screen and the way that you (in a 2010) would integrate are totally different since they changed the screen and interface in the 2010 models from what I read from ModMe's posts. If you look for ModMe's posts about the group buy for the factory integration module for 2010+ models you should be good to go.

 

^ how did you do it in your 08 though?

 

Dashcommand is what reads the info from the ODB-II port and displays the Gauge data on the top screen.

I used the ScanDO 800 to convert the PC VGA signal to 15Khz RGB which is what the factory monitor uses for it's signal. I then used a 4PDT relay to splice into the factory signal and switch between the factory monitor and the PC output.

I used the info from ModMe's post below to integrate with the factory screen:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...peed-temp.html

 

Hey E, what overlay did you use? I might take the second relay out of my system.

 

I used the 7" wide screen overlay from TVI Electronics. They make all kinds of overlays and such. You can get a 5 wire version of the overlay but you need to call them to get it.

You can find it here:

7.0" 16:9 4-Wire Resistive Touch Screen [ TSR-070-4W-HLD ] by TVI..

The touchscreen controller for the overlay can be found here:

4-Wire TouchScreen USB Controller [ SLT-TP05-USB ] by TVI Electronics,..

 

Already have a controller, only reason I think I'll swap to using an overlay is the FFCs on my factory one like to unseat. Looks like that one still uses FFC leads, so maybe I'll just have to figure something out to hold them tight.

 

The cable and plug on the overlay and controller I have are REALLY tight. You really have to press the cable into the connector and it takes quite a bit of effort to get the cable back out. Short of somebody pulling the thing loose there is no way it will come loose on its own. I also have the cable and connector wrapped in some electrical tape too just in case.

 

The installer (Matt Roberts) has put together a build post of his work. You can see all of that here:
Enfinitys, Infinity G37 rebuild - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality

Once you see the build guide you can see just how much effort went into making this thing

 

wow, such an amazing build! just as one of the members there said: I love installs that looks so simple but there is actually a ton of work to accomplish the simplicity

 

Yea, that is exactly what Matt specializes in. All of the work he does looks pretty much factory / stock after he is done with it but an a$$load of work went into making it look that way. Also, the pictures he posted of the build are just the tip of the iceberg of what he did. I think we had over 700 pictures after everything was said and done