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Help Bose remote wire not giving 12v

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Old 05-15-2014 | 01:08 PM
  #16  
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Ryne
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From: Frankfort, IL
Originally Posted by Tommy Gunz PSIU
I really didnt have much trouble with it. What it came down to was that the remote wire for the stock Bose amp was too thin to put enough power to the Rockford Amp. I mean if you're happy with your kicker amp, thats great, but when i planned my system out, i was dead set on getting that amp for my sub (all the specs were perfect for each other). Did you try putting the wire into the fuse box? Would shouldnt have had to cut anything, simply take the fuse out, shove the wire in, then push the fuse back in to hold it. If i recall correctly, the fuse location i used was just a spare spot in the fuse box... but I dont fully remember.
No offense, but that sounds kind of ghetto, borderline fire hazard. Anyways, it sounds like his problem is resolved he is happy with the new amp.
Old 05-15-2014 | 03:16 PM
  #17  
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Tommy Gunz PSIU
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When i got the recomendation from someone I thought it would be ghetto at first as well. After doing it, it really isnt, and as long as you do it right, its definately not a fire hazard. I actually wish i would have done it like this first, as it didnt require me to splice/cut/remove and of the stock wires. The only down side is that I had to pop off the kick panel on the drivers side too.
Old 05-15-2014 | 03:19 PM
  #18  
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From: GEORGIA
yeah, I hear ya. I just didn't like the idea of possibly having the wire make a full connection in the fuse spot and blowing something down the road. plus my hands are big and those fuses are tiny for my to put in with a wire lol.
Old 05-15-2014 | 03:27 PM
  #19  
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LOL. Well I'm glad you're happy with your setup. What sub you running?
Old 05-15-2014 | 06:47 PM
  #20  
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Ryne
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From: Frankfort, IL
Originally Posted by Tommy Gunz PSIU
When i got the recomendation from someone I thought it would be ghetto at first as well. After doing it, it really isnt, and as long as you do it right, its definately not a fire hazard. I actually wish i would have done it like this first, as it didnt require me to splice/cut/remove and of the stock wires. The only down side is that I had to pop off the kick panel on the drivers side too.
This would be the more proper way to go about it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-A-CIRCUIT-BLADE-STYLE-ATM-LOW-PROFILE-MINI-FUSE-HOLDER-FUSE-TAP-5AMP-FUSE/181411265565?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222003%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D22849%26meid%3D6925876578475755772%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D9835%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D190826260579&rt=nc
Old 05-19-2014 | 10:58 AM
  #21  
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GORILLA GAINS
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From: GEORGIA
Originally Posted by Tommy Gunz PSIU
LOL. Well I'm glad you're happy with your setup. What sub you running?


just a 10" p2 I had sitting around in a zenclosure. the kicker is like 400 watts or something. I dumbed the whole setup way down on the gain. I don't want my trunk to rattle to pieces just want a little more bass for my rock music.
but hey quick question. if you dino-mat to make the trunk rattle go away can you just dino-mat the lid of the trunk or do you have to do the inside of the trunk as well. cuz the inside of the lid would be easy. but it might also make the trunk lid to heavy for the stabilizers.
Old 05-19-2014 | 11:22 AM
  #22  
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From: Frankfort, IL
Originally Posted by GORILLA GAINS
just a 10" p2 I had sitting around in a zenclosure. the kicker is like 400 watts or something. I dumbed the whole setup way down on the gain. I don't want my trunk to rattle to pieces just want a little more bass for my rock music.
but hey quick question. if you dino-mat to make the trunk rattle go away can you just dino-mat the lid of the trunk or do you have to do the inside of the trunk as well. cuz the inside of the lid would be easy. but it might also make the trunk lid to heavy for the stabilizers.
Sound dampening material such as Dynamat only works if it is placed on the panel that is rattling. If everything is rattling, putting the material on the easily accessible areas (trunk lid) will decrease the overall "rattle", but not eliminate it. If it is only the trunk lid that is rattling though, it will solve the problem completely. It is possible that only the trunk lid is vibrating enough to rattle since it is much less rigid than the rest of the trunk panels. This car is pretty well acoustically dampened from the factory and I would like to caution that digging too deep to apply Dynamat may be counterproductive; there is the possibility the panels won't fit the same way when you put everything back together, creating new "rattles".
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