1. Remove cover inside door panel. Remove (1) 10mm bolt
2. Remove door handle trim panel by pulling gently at bottom edge. Remove (2) 10mm bolts
3. Remove light by prying gently at side. Unplug harness.
4. Remove door panel by pulling gently at lower edge at rear of vehicle.
5. Unplug (2) harnesses from power window switch, (1) harness from mid-woofer, and both cables from door handle assembly. Set entire door panel aside.

 

Here's what You'll see after panel removal.

 

1. Remove (1) 10mm bolt. Carefully pry side facing front of vehicle and then slide entire panel towards rear of vehicle.

 

• Woofer: 10" diameter, 3.25" depth, 1.3 ohm
• Mid: 3.25" diameter, 1.75" depth, 4.0 ohm
• Tweeter: 1 3/8" diameter (tweeter plus mount ring), 0.75" depth, 3.4 ohm, 4.7 capacitor-tuned for 8457 Hz and up only
  
• DS Woofer Positive:Red
• DS Woofer Negative: Green
• PS Woofer Positive:Green
• PS Woofer Negative: Red
  
• DS Mid Positive: Grey
• DS Mid Negative: White
• PS Mid Positive: Blue
• PS Mid Negative: White
  
• DS Tweeter Positive: Black/White Stripe
• DS Tweeter Negative: Black
• PS Tweeter Positive: Black/Red Stripe
• PS Tweeter Negative: Black

**The tweeter does not have it's own dedicated wiring from the Bose amp. It is run parallel off the mid at the door harness.

**The wiring at the Bose amp is different the ones at the door. This is typical Nissan. The wires pass through two harnesses between the amp and speakers and the colors of the wires often change. For instance, the service manual shows the DS door woofer output on Bose systems without Nav as black for positive and white for negative. Yet at the door it's red and green. Always test each speaker for proper polarity to confirm proper wiring color.

 

Next up is lots of testing to find the right setup. I'l be experimenting with the JL crossover settings for a bit to see if I can dial in the right amount of control for the factory mid in conjunction with the seperate JL woofer and tweeter. I'll post detailed pics and results in a few days.

Of note, I found in the factory service manual that we have the ability to perform an audio diagnostic session. It will actually send test tones to each speaker one by one. This might come in handy during setup and evaluation!

 

disregard my pm i copied the posts into a new thread.

 

Here's a few pics of the tweeter and door assemblies prior to installation:

 

Door assembly:

 

First impressions are mixed. I installed the driver's side door system and left the passenger stock for a side by side comparison. The bass response of the Bose 10" woofer is far richer than the little JL woofer. However, the stock midrange and tweeter are harsh and raspy compared to my setup. By feeding the stock midrange and JL tweeter with a signal filtered through the JL crossover, it allowed me to soften the midrange and blend it with the crisper highs of the JL tweeter. This, in combination with the Bose woofer, proved to be a wonderful balance.

In hindsight, I was too quick to blame the Bose woofer. The culprit for me was more so the midrange, and at high volumes and bass levels, the tweeter. That little 6db cap on the Bose tweeter isn't near enough to protect it from distorting.

Here's a quick shot of the door leaving the Bose woofer and adding the JL tweeter and crossover. Now, it's off to the rear deck panel's 6x9's!

 

very nice, thanks for doing this.

 

Moooooo pix please

 

You do realize that with this setup the passive is not bandpassing the midrange, right? I curious to know if you are going to run into phase and null issues with using the Bose amp internal crossover, cascaded with your passive setup. If you are not really concerned about any imaging and staging then maybe it won't be a big deal, but I anticipate too much system imbalance and anomolies for me. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Actually, I am bandpassing the Bose midrange and dropping freqencies below 4800 Hz at 12db for the JL tweeter. Further, there is no load difference, as measured both at speaker and amp level, since the JL tweeter is identical to the Bose tweeter in impedance. Finally, the Bose output to the midrange/tweeter is nearly full range. With my PC Oscilloscope software I was able to rate a 300hz-above 20K signal on that line while the door woofer was mostly 700hz and below. This is why the midrange degrades so much at higher volume levels with an aggressive bass setting. It also explains why the tweeter breaks up with its diminutive 4.7uf cap as its sole means of protection. This is precisely why I left the door woofer alone and fed the signal through the crossover unit prior to the mid and new tweeter.

As for system inbalance, phase and null issues, and other concerns you voice, I believe you have missed the entire intent of this post. This is a test of performing just a simple speaker swap to see if it's worthwhile, and to uncover potential pitfalls in regards to size, load, and wiring correctly. I for one find the Bose system quite good, with only some minor detail issues. This is why I tested impedance at the amp and speaker and checked wire codes and polarity everywhere.

Speaking of, the passenger side's door woofer is wired purposefully to be out of phase with the driver's woofer. This is a very advanced setup right out of the box and is quite tricky to improve. My sincere hope is that those looking to do complete systems or someone with more modest tastes will find a few nuggets of info here that will save them hours of painfull trial and error. I've been installing car stereos both professionally and privately for 19 years now and I just want to share my experience and **** testing accumen with fellow board members.

 

ironchef, I want to thank you for this thread. I have never had a Factory "Optional" Sound System, such as HK, Bose or ML, nor have I ever spent much money on a mobile system other than just replacing factory speakers. I am anxious to see what, if any, sound improvement comes from changing out the rear 6x9's. I have been thinking about the JL TR690 Evolutions but would the VR690's be better? I am pretty Mobile Audio "ignorant" but I do know what I like when I hear it. I run Klipsch Forte's on my home system and LOVE their sound. If anybody has an opinion on a better 6x9 for the G37 Bose application please sound off. Thanks again.

 

How are you bandpassing the midrange? You do realize that 300 - 20 hz is normal frequency range for midrange and tweets, right? More important is at what level that signal is coming through the mid range. Unless you are not taking 2nd and 3 rd order harmonics into consideration. I am opposite of you in that I felt if the stock system had anythiong going for it it was clarity in the mid and tweet range. It was the modbass and sub bass that lacked within the system, IMHO.

I understand the purpose of your post, but worthwhile is subjective, no? If someone wanted a system that did not accurately reproduce the music, then fine. But unless you identify and present all of the flaws, others will not be able to make a well informed decision as to whether it is worthwhile. In short, I or any other audio enthusiats could have proposed these potential problems to anyone considering this setup without actually doing it. Most people upgrade their systems to be better, not to go backwards. Unfortunately most peoples reference of what is good is not ideal. So they make changes without realizing that they are actually degrading the system rather than improving it.

As for speaker impedence, a static impedence is not actually the critical factor. Impedence is frequency dependent and varies. I dont know if electrical polarity is as important as one might think since phasing issues are sure to arise. It doesn't surprise me that the stoc wiring was wired out of phase as this is commonly done in setups. IMHO many other issues arise due to this, but not suprising coming from bose. As I said good luck and I hope it works out.