Best Sub/Amp Brands
05-10-2008, 11:41 PM
#31
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I use the W7 as a reference because it is superior sub VS 12W3's V1 , 12W3's V2 and 12W3's V3.
If the subs i mentioned leave the W7 in the dust, what do you think they will do to the 12W3's V1.
Maybe 7 years ago the 12W3's V1 was good, but dont compare them with subs we have right now.
like i said, i would pick the IDQV3 over 12W3's V1 , 12W3's V2 or 12W3's V3.
IDQV3 will walk all over the 12W3's V1 there is no competition.
If the subs i mentioned leave the W7 in the dust, what do you think they will do to the 12W3's V1.
Maybe 7 years ago the 12W3's V1 was good, but dont compare them with subs we have right now.
like i said, i would pick the IDQV3 over 12W3's V1 , 12W3's V2 or 12W3's V3.
IDQV3 will walk all over the 12W3's V1 there is no competition.
Well, in my opinion, the W7 doesn't even sound that great. The only way the W7 is better than the original W3 is with overall output, but that should be eveident with the structure of the W7.
If the W7 is your reference then I guess this is where we differ. IMHO, my standard of SQ is just a little more than I have heard out of the W7.
05-10-2008, 11:43 PM
#32
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also just think how much manufacturing and materials have evolved in the past few years. Think of how much composites have changed our lives. That in itself should be reason enough to explore different options than those available 7 years ago.
I'm not saying I'm has not evolved, but I do think they've been riding on only their name for far too long.
I'm not saying I'm has not evolved, but I do think they've been riding on only their name for far too long.
Please do tell of these NEW space age materials and revolutionary manufacturing of speakers?
05-10-2008, 11:58 PM
#33
Well, if things changed that much and that rapidly, then I guess all those Dyn's that people have had in their cars must be crap!
Again, it sounds like you have had no experience with the sub I have refered to and I don't see how you can judge it if you hadn't. Transducers have not really changed over the years and any experienced enthusiast or installer knows that car audio systems are 90% install and 10% equipment.
Again, it sounds like you have had no experience with the sub I have refered to and I don't see how you can judge it if you hadn't. Transducers have not really changed over the years and any experienced enthusiast or installer knows that car audio systems are 90% install and 10% equipment.
As someone who has admittedly been out of the industry for 7 years, you would think that you would take some of your own advice. E.g. if you have no experience with new technology, I don’t see how you can judge it.
05-11-2008, 12:23 AM
#34
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i mean Dynaudio System 240 Esotar
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=1140
Q: Where did you pick up all your Rainbow gear
A: I got my powerlines from a guy at my school you knows a dealer on the east coast
Q: Do I possibly know you from a different forum?
A: I dont think so
05-11-2008, 12:26 AM
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05-11-2008, 12:36 AM
#36
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i mean Dynaudio System 240 Esotar
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=1140
Q: Where did you pick up all your Rainbow gear
A: I got my powerlines from a guy at my school you knows a dealer on the east coast
Q: Do I possibly know you from a different forum?
A: I dont think so
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=1140
Q: Where did you pick up all your Rainbow gear
A: I got my powerlines from a guy at my school you knows a dealer on the east coast
Q: Do I possibly know you from a different forum?
A: I dont think so
A dealer on the East Coast .. hmm theres not too many over here, it is possible that I know your friend through the forums then.
05-11-2008, 12:38 AM
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Although the install in pinnacle. I do not see how you can discredit the advancements in technology. Cones are now more structurally sound, they are more rigid and are far lighter, therefore, their ability to recreate sound has far improved, from speed to minimizing distortion. i.e. the use of aluminum, carbon fiber, and Kevlar. Polymer development has not given surrounds that are designed to stretch many times their weight. Many different types of magnets are now available so manufactures can choose magnets that follow their own design, even their magnetic waves can be tailored.
As someone who has admittedly been out of the industry for 7 years, you would think that you would take some of your own advice. E.g. if you have no experience with new technology, I don’t see how you can judge it.
As someone who has admittedly been out of the industry for 7 years, you would think that you would take some of your own advice. E.g. if you have no experience with new technology, I don’t see how you can judge it.
Well, since I work in a scientific field, have many years of experience as a chemist, work with breakthrough technologies, have access to polymer chemists etc I think I know a little about whats out there. All of the things that you think are so "new" have been around for quite sometime. What do you think, 7 years ago we all used only paper cones in our stereo systems?!
Honestly, the only things I see majorly different within the car audio scene are:
Lack of qualified "experts" who actually install anymore
The competition scene is dead
Digital processing is all but almost standard in systems.
05-11-2008, 12:41 AM
#38
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I dont know the guy his dealing from, but i can ask him and find out.
05-13-2008, 03:07 PM
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05-19-2008, 07:14 PM
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Best Subs
The post on this site are not based on any real .....um understanding of sub and amp technology. As someone who has worked in the audio industry for 32 years it never ceases to amaze me the uninformed have opinions based on brand prejudice. I had two of these and there better than two of those. BASED ON WHAT? Justification for your purchase is not justification for everyone elses on the forum. Here's some info you should follow in purchasing a sub and amp for you car:
1. The G37 or G35 has a very small area for subs if you want to maintain any trunk space. Look for woofers that work well in that application. Many of the woofers mentioned on the forum will do that. Also, audio products are like cars only handful are really good - great products exist.
2. The application is the most important aspect to the purchase. If you ultimate goal is output, port it. If you need to maintain space, small drivers in the 8 to 10 inch area require modest sized enclosure in the .8 to 1.6 cubic foot respectively. 12'S get in the 2 cube to 3 cube ported. THAS IS A BIG FRIGGIN BOX. Generally speaking sealed enclosures are sonically more accurate and have more detail with less output. There are 12's that work in as little as on cubic foot. Multiple small driver (2 8"s or 2 10's) may outperform a single super woofer in a smaller enclosre and require less amplifier. Surface area, driver excursion are some of the factors to help make decisions. Everytime you double the surface area (roughly) you pick up 3 db of output. That's like going from 250 watts to 500 watts.
3. Amplifier choice to drive the system is critical. In spite of silly power claims in the case of car amps more is not better and usually not real. Amplifier ratings of 14.4 volts are useless. You car would have to be hit by lightening, running down hill and a have a power line draped over the hood to see 14.4 volts on a regular basis. The proper spec is 12.6 volts (roughly a battey with a full charge).
4. Consider the charging sytem. 1 killowatt will require 90 amps of current to drive it. It's called Ohms Law not Ohms theory. This can put a huge strain on the charging system. Also, amplifier settings are critical to the sound quality, xover points to integrate with high frequency transducers, subsonic filter to properly roll of woofers and gain settings (output setting) to keep the amp from clipping. Many great product have sounded horrible due to poor set-up.
5. Finally where you buy it is just as important. There are three types of Car Audio Retailers. The A type, B type and C the recipe for disaster. Avoid the internet for quality purchases of high end products, many are not authorized and have no access to service. Generally with most internet purchses if you blow it you can throw it out. Crutchfield would be an example of a reputable Internet site. When purchasing equipment make sure of the following:
a. The dealer knows the car and it's electrical syetem. Ask questions your spending alot of money. You not driving an 81 Cutlass.
b. Most good dealer will have word of mouth within a given community. Most keep a portfolio of high end installs for that purpose.
c. Listen to what your buying. Subjectivity in audio is a misnomer. When you a hear a saxophone you would never confuses it for a Tuba.
d. Visit multiple dealers even if a little travel is necessary. Shop price like any other business you can generally get a deal. But also, consider expertise if one dealer is more talented at install it may worth the extra money.
1. The G37 or G35 has a very small area for subs if you want to maintain any trunk space. Look for woofers that work well in that application. Many of the woofers mentioned on the forum will do that. Also, audio products are like cars only handful are really good - great products exist.
2. The application is the most important aspect to the purchase. If you ultimate goal is output, port it. If you need to maintain space, small drivers in the 8 to 10 inch area require modest sized enclosure in the .8 to 1.6 cubic foot respectively. 12'S get in the 2 cube to 3 cube ported. THAS IS A BIG FRIGGIN BOX. Generally speaking sealed enclosures are sonically more accurate and have more detail with less output. There are 12's that work in as little as on cubic foot. Multiple small driver (2 8"s or 2 10's) may outperform a single super woofer in a smaller enclosre and require less amplifier. Surface area, driver excursion are some of the factors to help make decisions. Everytime you double the surface area (roughly) you pick up 3 db of output. That's like going from 250 watts to 500 watts.
3. Amplifier choice to drive the system is critical. In spite of silly power claims in the case of car amps more is not better and usually not real. Amplifier ratings of 14.4 volts are useless. You car would have to be hit by lightening, running down hill and a have a power line draped over the hood to see 14.4 volts on a regular basis. The proper spec is 12.6 volts (roughly a battey with a full charge).
4. Consider the charging sytem. 1 killowatt will require 90 amps of current to drive it. It's called Ohms Law not Ohms theory. This can put a huge strain on the charging system. Also, amplifier settings are critical to the sound quality, xover points to integrate with high frequency transducers, subsonic filter to properly roll of woofers and gain settings (output setting) to keep the amp from clipping. Many great product have sounded horrible due to poor set-up.
5. Finally where you buy it is just as important. There are three types of Car Audio Retailers. The A type, B type and C the recipe for disaster. Avoid the internet for quality purchases of high end products, many are not authorized and have no access to service. Generally with most internet purchses if you blow it you can throw it out. Crutchfield would be an example of a reputable Internet site. When purchasing equipment make sure of the following:
a. The dealer knows the car and it's electrical syetem. Ask questions your spending alot of money. You not driving an 81 Cutlass.
b. Most good dealer will have word of mouth within a given community. Most keep a portfolio of high end installs for that purpose.
c. Listen to what your buying. Subjectivity in audio is a misnomer. When you a hear a saxophone you would never confuses it for a Tuba.
d. Visit multiple dealers even if a little travel is necessary. Shop price like any other business you can generally get a deal. But also, consider expertise if one dealer is more talented at install it may worth the extra money.
Last edited by daquilini; 05-19-2008 at 07:18 PM.
05-20-2008, 07:38 AM
#44
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Does anyone know a knowledgeable installer in the DC metro area? The places I went to did not know the car or were trying to BS me. I said I'm an ignorant fool BUT I'm not stupid!
05-20-2008, 09:35 AM
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Decent Dealers
By far the most "knowledge based" post in this thread! Thanks! Being an such an ignorant fool when it comes to this stuff, this was a good read...
Does anyone know a knowledgeable installer in the DC metro area? The places I went to did not know the car or were trying to BS me. I said I'm an ignorant fool BUT I'm not stupid!
Does anyone know a knowledgeable installer in the DC metro area? The places I went to did not know the car or were trying to BS me. I said I'm an ignorant fool BUT I'm not stupid!