Inside door pics of Premium Audio cars
05-01-2008, 11:09 PM
#16
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Here's a start; the factory speakers. On second look, the speakers are better than I thought but not great. Looks like they're not paper. The subs are interesting, eh? Check out that tiny factory mid. I left the OEM tweeters in the original locations so no pictures.
The Dyn tweets were too big for the factory locations so they're installed where the mids were. They're working on the mids today. Probably won't be finished until Saturday.
I talked to the installer about where to tap the signals. He said they had trouble getting the signal quality straight from the head unit on some Bose units. Said they would try before and after the amp. I got the 3sixty.2 so he said they'd experiment a little with the wiring looking for the best sound quality.
The impedance of the OEM speakers:
door sub 1 ohms
door mid 4 ohms, since mids and tweeters are usually wired together, maybe 2 ohms as a set.
rear deck 2 ohms
There are no markings so we measured with a multimeter.
The Dyn tweets were too big for the factory locations so they're installed where the mids were. They're working on the mids today. Probably won't be finished until Saturday.
I talked to the installer about where to tap the signals. He said they had trouble getting the signal quality straight from the head unit on some Bose units. Said they would try before and after the amp. I got the 3sixty.2 so he said they'd experiment a little with the wiring looking for the best sound quality.
The impedance of the OEM speakers:
door sub 1 ohms
door mid 4 ohms, since mids and tweeters are usually wired together, maybe 2 ohms as a set.
rear deck 2 ohms
There are no markings so we measured with a multimeter.
You da man! ugh, with the typical Bose garbage! No reason you shouldn't be able to drop that Dyn midrange in. The 10 in has an enclosure that it resides in, correct? If so, you did cut out the back before dropping in the mid bass, right? When you say "template", you mean a baffle right?
05-01-2008, 11:14 PM
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Just so busy, I can't get time to build my amp rack and enclosure. Pics will be posted when I start.
05-02-2008, 12:02 AM
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So it looks to me a correct me if I am wrong, we have 10-inch in the doors and 6x9 in rear deck, with a 2-3inch mid and tweeter up front (mid in door also)?
Am I correct to guess Dyn, is Dyn-Audio you are putting in? WOuld love to hear more about your set-up and wiring once it gets done. Sounds similar to what I want to do.
Am I correct to guess Dyn, is Dyn-Audio you are putting in? WOuld love to hear more about your set-up and wiring once it gets done. Sounds similar to what I want to do.
The door "sub" is much bigger than I thought it would be. The door mid is much smaller than I thought. The door tweeter must be pretty small, too. No way the Dyn tweeters would fit in the factory location.
More good news is the factory wire gauge. It appears to be at least 20 AWG and maybe even 18 AWG. I can deliver 150 watts to the speakers with minimal loss.
Sorry about the poor pictures, I had to seriously reduce the original picture quality to make the forum size requirements.
05-02-2008, 12:43 AM
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You da man! ugh, with the typical Bose garbage! No reason you shouldn't be able to drop that Dyn midrange in. The 10 in has an enclosure that it resides in, correct? If so, you did cut out the back before dropping in the mid bass, right? When you say "template", you mean a baffle right?
The sub is self contained and fit in the door, not the door panel like the mid. My installer made a "template" ring that matched the size of the sub and put the MW 172 in it. The sub looks much like the new Pioneer and JL "flat" units; it's pretty shallow depth wise so watch the depth requirements for your 182's. The MW 172 8" just made the clearance.
You might be SOL with those 102 tweeters in the factory locations unless you're willing to cut the door sails. I got the 100's and I think they're also 1.1". I didn't want to cut the door sails to get them in.
My configuration has the Dyn tweeters in the factory mid location, the mids in the kick panels and the woofer in the factory door location using the template.
Speaker size is going to be a huge problem with this car without cutting the doors unless you go with the Morels or mix and match the speakers. Seems the Morel 9 system works well fit-wise. I almost got those instead of the Dyns and now I kind of regret not doing it. I got a great deal on the Dyns so I'm still happy and I think the sound stage might be a little better than factory. Time will tell. C'mon, Saturday!
05-02-2008, 10:01 AM
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Is your car all done now, and buttoned up? or would it be possible for you to take measurements on the depth of the factory sub enclosure in place(depth of enclosure itself), and then again of the whole door cavety without (amount of room behind door panel to door skin)?
I am curious if one were to remove the whole woofer enclosure and fabricated something new (baffle and enclosure) what wort of depth you would have?
I am contemplating a pair of mid-base where the 10-inch is and a small domed mid-range where the 3" OEM mid is now and then tweeter either flushed in the A-pilar or buying a replacement from dealer and creating a fiberglass pod.
I am curious if one were to remove the whole woofer enclosure and fabricated something new (baffle and enclosure) what wort of depth you would have?
I am contemplating a pair of mid-base where the 10-inch is and a small domed mid-range where the 3" OEM mid is now and then tweeter either flushed in the A-pilar or buying a replacement from dealer and creating a fiberglass pod.
05-02-2008, 11:29 AM
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Is your car all done now, and buttoned up? or would it be possible for you to take measurements on the depth of the factory sub enclosure in place(depth of enclosure itself), and then again of the whole door cavety without (amount of room behind door panel to door skin)?
I am curious if one were to remove the whole woofer enclosure and fabricated something new (baffle and enclosure) what wort of depth you would have?
I am contemplating a pair of mid-base where the 10-inch is and a small domed mid-range where the 3" OEM mid is now and then tweeter either flushed in the A-pilar or buying a replacement from dealer and creating a fiberglass pod.
I am curious if one were to remove the whole woofer enclosure and fabricated something new (baffle and enclosure) what wort of depth you would have?
I am contemplating a pair of mid-base where the 10-inch is and a small domed mid-range where the 3" OEM mid is now and then tweeter either flushed in the A-pilar or buying a replacement from dealer and creating a fiberglass pod.
The woofer is just a shade over 3.25 inches deep. Not sure about the door depth but there's a large hole in the door frame where it mounts behind the door panel.
You'll need small mids and tweeters. My guess on the tweeters is .75 inches, depth unknown. The depth of the mids is just under 2 inches, diameter 3.25 inches.
The tweeter pod idea sounds good. Maybe replacing the existing pod with a flat plate for surface mounting the tweet depending on what you have.
I'll try to get a set of the pics they said they were making.
05-02-2008, 11:31 PM
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OoooRahhh! 
It's done. Sounds awesome and the install is better still. I've got three amps running together; not using the bose sub amp. The Bose is running the factory tweets, the rear sids and the center speaker. The Alpines are running the doors, the rear deck and the JL 10W6 in the 4080 box.
They took pics and they're burning a CD for me with pics, a ton of RF software and all the EQ profiles they tested. It should be ready by noon tomorrow.
Support on how to post pics directly to the forum is requested. I've been using the upload utility.
I'm not sure I like the mids where they are. They're gonna get kicked. The grill is strong but muddy shoes in the wrong place...
The 3sixty software is very impressive. We sat in the car with an audio analyzer mic in the sweet spot and dialed it in to almost 0db across the line. All using a blue tooth equipped laptop; 131 channels of EQ (fronts only) is nothing short of amazing. I sat there in learn mode through out.
Let it be known that the Bose head unit, indeed, has an EQ curve built in. The output of the factory amp left no room for adjustment so the RF 3sixty gets the signal from the head unit.
The 3sixty.2 draws a before and after curve after it runs through it's cal procedure. The Bose HU starts at -dbs on the left and has a relatively sharp rise time up to +db on the extreme right side. I didn't catch the unit of measure on the screen but don't expect it to more than 1 db increments. Dillyyo, I'll leave the translation to you.
It's late, I'm tired, pics to follow.
It's done. Sounds awesome and the install is better still. I've got three amps running together; not using the bose sub amp. The Bose is running the factory tweets, the rear sids and the center speaker. The Alpines are running the doors, the rear deck and the JL 10W6 in the 4080 box.
They took pics and they're burning a CD for me with pics, a ton of RF software and all the EQ profiles they tested. It should be ready by noon tomorrow.
Support on how to post pics directly to the forum is requested. I've been using the upload utility.
I'm not sure I like the mids where they are. They're gonna get kicked. The grill is strong but muddy shoes in the wrong place...
The 3sixty software is very impressive. We sat in the car with an audio analyzer mic in the sweet spot and dialed it in to almost 0db across the line. All using a blue tooth equipped laptop; 131 channels of EQ (fronts only) is nothing short of amazing. I sat there in learn mode through out.
Let it be known that the Bose head unit, indeed, has an EQ curve built in. The output of the factory amp left no room for adjustment so the RF 3sixty gets the signal from the head unit.
The 3sixty.2 draws a before and after curve after it runs through it's cal procedure. The Bose HU starts at -dbs on the left and has a relatively sharp rise time up to +db on the extreme right side. I didn't catch the unit of measure on the screen but don't expect it to more than 1 db increments. Dillyyo, I'll leave the translation to you.
It's late, I'm tired, pics to follow.
05-02-2008, 11:32 PM
#24
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Nope, the Dyn mid won't fit in the factory location, not even close. Diameter is way too big. The folks at Dyn said I could cut the speakers down but I'm not willing to put a saw to them. The mids are attached to the door panel, not the door, hence the fit problem. Hope your Iridium mids are SMALL. Check the picture with the ruler on the OEM mids.
The sub is self contained and fit in the door, not the door panel like the mid. My installer made a "template" ring that matched the size of the sub and put the MW 172 in it. The sub looks much like the new Pioneer and JL "flat" units; it's pretty shallow depth wise so watch the depth requirements for your 182's. The MW 172 8" just made the clearance.
You might be SOL with those 102 tweeters in the factory locations unless you're willing to cut the door sails. I got the 100's and I think they're also 1.1". I didn't want to cut the door sails to get them in.
My configuration has the Dyn tweeters in the factory mid location, the mids in the kick panels and the woofer in the factory door location using the template.
Speaker size is going to be a huge problem with this car without cutting the doors unless you go with the Morels or mix and match the speakers. Seems the Morel 9 system works well fit-wise. I almost got those instead of the Dyns and now I kind of regret not doing it. I got a great deal on the Dyns so I'm still happy and I think the sound stage might be a little better than factory. Time will tell. C'mon, Saturday!
The sub is self contained and fit in the door, not the door panel like the mid. My installer made a "template" ring that matched the size of the sub and put the MW 172 in it. The sub looks much like the new Pioneer and JL "flat" units; it's pretty shallow depth wise so watch the depth requirements for your 182's. The MW 172 8" just made the clearance.
You might be SOL with those 102 tweeters in the factory locations unless you're willing to cut the door sails. I got the 100's and I think they're also 1.1". I didn't want to cut the door sails to get them in.
My configuration has the Dyn tweeters in the factory mid location, the mids in the kick panels and the woofer in the factory door location using the template.
Speaker size is going to be a huge problem with this car without cutting the doors unless you go with the Morels or mix and match the speakers. Seems the Morel 9 system works well fit-wise. I almost got those instead of the Dyns and now I kind of regret not doing it. I got a great deal on the Dyns so I'm still happy and I think the sound stage might be a little better than factory. Time will tell. C'mon, Saturday!
Are you saying the "flange" on the speaker is to big or are you saying the magnet (back side) of the midrange is to big? What if the door panel is cut....can the diameter be made bigger? A pic of the panels would be awesome.
I will be using the MW182 which is a bigger cone, but actually a stamped basket which is slightly more shallow, so I should have no problem with that.
As far as the 102's, I'm willing to cut anything that won't show i.e. the back or non exposed part of the sail panel. As long as I am keeping the front grill of the sail panel in tact, thats what matters to me.
When you say the Morels fit fine, what are you refering to exactly? The Dyn mid basses (172 or 182) are not a problem. Are you saying the Morel nidrange and tweeters fit perfectly? Someone else on here has the Morel's in and said everything fits fine.
05-02-2008, 11:42 PM
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OoooRahhh!
It's done. Sounds awesome and the install is better still. I've got three amps running together; not using the bose sub amp. The Bose is running the factory tweets, the rear sids and the center speaker. The Alpines are running the doors, the rear deck and the JL 10W6 in the 4080 box.
They took pics and they're burning a CD for me with pics, a ton of RF software and all the EQ profiles they tested. It should be ready by noon tomorrow.
Support on how to post pics directly to the forum is requested. I've been using the upload utility.
I'm not sure I like the mids where they are. They're gonna get kicked. The grill is strong but muddy shoes in the wrong place...
The 3sixty software is very impressive. We sat in the car with an audio analyzer mic in the sweet spot and dialed it in to almost 0db across the line. All using a blue tooth equipped laptop; 131 channels of EQ (fronts only) is nothing short of amazing. I sat there in learn mode through out.
Let it be known that the Bose head unit, indeed, has an EQ curve built in. The output of the factory amp left no room for adjustment so the RF 3sixty gets the signal from the head unit.
The 3sixty.2 draws a before and after curve after it runs through it's cal procedure. The Bose HU starts at -dbs on the left and has a relatively sharp rise time up to +db on the extreme right side. I didn't catch the unit of measure on the screen but don't expect it to more than 1 db increments. Dillyyo, I'll leave the translation to you.
It's late, I'm tired, pics to follow.
It's done. Sounds awesome and the install is better still. I've got three amps running together; not using the bose sub amp. The Bose is running the factory tweets, the rear sids and the center speaker. The Alpines are running the doors, the rear deck and the JL 10W6 in the 4080 box.
They took pics and they're burning a CD for me with pics, a ton of RF software and all the EQ profiles they tested. It should be ready by noon tomorrow.
Support on how to post pics directly to the forum is requested. I've been using the upload utility.
I'm not sure I like the mids where they are. They're gonna get kicked. The grill is strong but muddy shoes in the wrong place...
The 3sixty software is very impressive. We sat in the car with an audio analyzer mic in the sweet spot and dialed it in to almost 0db across the line. All using a blue tooth equipped laptop; 131 channels of EQ (fronts only) is nothing short of amazing. I sat there in learn mode through out.
Let it be known that the Bose head unit, indeed, has an EQ curve built in. The output of the factory amp left no room for adjustment so the RF 3sixty gets the signal from the head unit.
The 3sixty.2 draws a before and after curve after it runs through it's cal procedure. The Bose HU starts at -dbs on the left and has a relatively sharp rise time up to +db on the extreme right side. I didn't catch the unit of measure on the screen but don't expect it to more than 1 db increments. Dillyyo, I'll leave the translation to you.
It's late, I'm tired, pics to follow.
You would need actual numbers to tell whether there is a significant variation. When it is said that a frequency response is flat, it is usually with a +/- 3db tolerance. No response is ever truly "ruler flat", so to find 40hz -db and 15k hz +db, does not indicate an EQ curve present.
05-02-2008, 11:49 PM
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05-02-2008, 11:55 PM
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Are you saying the "flange" on the speaker is to big or are you saying the magnet (back side) of the midrange is to big? What if the door panel is cut....can the diameter be made bigger? A pic of the panels would be awesome.
I will be using the MW182 which is a bigger cone, but actually a stamped basket which is slightly more shallow, so I should have no problem with that.
As far as the 102's, I'm willing to cut anything that won't show i.e. the back or non exposed part of the sail panel. As long as I am keeping the front grill of the sail panel in tact, thats what matters to me.
When you say the Morels fit fine, what are you refering to exactly? The Dyn mid basses (172 or 182) are not a problem. Are you saying the Morel nidrange and tweeters fit perfectly? Someone else on here has the Morel's in and said everything fits fine.
I will be using the MW182 which is a bigger cone, but actually a stamped basket which is slightly more shallow, so I should have no problem with that.
As far as the 102's, I'm willing to cut anything that won't show i.e. the back or non exposed part of the sail panel. As long as I am keeping the front grill of the sail panel in tact, thats what matters to me.
When you say the Morels fit fine, what are you refering to exactly? The Dyn mid basses (172 or 182) are not a problem. Are you saying the Morel nidrange and tweeters fit perfectly? Someone else on here has the Morel's in and said everything fits fine.
Many thanks to Grant Winslow and Sound on Wheels, Huntsville, AL.
I never thought about integrating the whole system. Grant also mounted the RF audio control in the center console blank.
A nice touch.Adapt, improvise and overcome. I think I've heard that before. Any devil dogs out there?
05-03-2008, 12:15 AM
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You would need actual numbers to tell whether there is a significant variation. When it is said that a frequency response is flat, it is usually with a +/- 3db tolerance. No response is ever truly "ruler flat", so to find 40hz -db and 15k hz +db, does not indicate an EQ curve present.
3db down, for the novice, is a 50% decrease in power. I failed to really look at the graph. Too stoked by the sound. I'll see about posting it.
The audio analyzer did appear to be a good unit. I program the stuff for a living so I have a little experience.
Let's just say that my ears are happy. Worth every penny.
05-03-2008, 12:30 AM
#30
Should have incremental pics soon. The way they mounted the Alpine PDX amps looks almost factory. C'mon, tomorrow.
Many thanks to Grant Winslow and Sound on Wheels, Huntsville, AL.
I never thought about integrating the whole system. Grant also mounted the RF audio control in the center console blank. A nice touch.
Adapt, improvise and overcome. I think I've heard that before. Any devil dogs out there?
Many thanks to Grant Winslow and Sound on Wheels, Huntsville, AL.
I never thought about integrating the whole system. Grant also mounted the RF audio control in the center console blank.
A nice touch.Adapt, improvise and overcome. I think I've heard that before. Any devil dogs out there?
And post your damn install pics already man!