Where to draw the signal from for the sub?
#1
Where to draw the signal from for the sub?
Hi all, I've been seeing a lot of different ideas on where to draw the sub signal from, but not much feedback as to what was successful.
is tapping the speakers on the deck a good idea? (i'd think not as much base would go back here given the inverted system set up).
Has anyone figured out how to tab the door sub signals easily?
Lastly, I was thinking about using a mono amp, does it matter which signal i tap into (left or right??) If i recall it's non-directional anyways?
is tapping the speakers on the deck a good idea? (i'd think not as much base would go back here given the inverted system set up).
Has anyone figured out how to tab the door sub signals easily?
Lastly, I was thinking about using a mono amp, does it matter which signal i tap into (left or right??) If i recall it's non-directional anyways?
#5
I took the jumped signal from the wires just before it went into the sub amp. There are only the pos. and neg. to worry about, no right or left. And it already has the processing done to it. That way you can leave the subs that the car already has and just add more.
#6
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#10
If he asks you questions like the ones you are proposing, I would pack up your ****z and find someone else. Just my .02c
#11
Also, is there a way to reroute the signal using OEM type connectors to avoid cutting wires (i.e., a wiring harness of some type)?
Lee
#12
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8 & 9 and 16 & 17 are the same wires. 16 & 17 are just coming out of the Bose Amp and 8 & 9 are going into the Sub Amp. I believe it already has the signal processing on it but it is not amplified yet so the signal going into the new amp wont be distorted from having too much amplification going into the new amp. If you want an uncrossed-over signal you would have to get the signal from Connector #B41, Term #23, 24, 25, 26 and 33, 34, 35, 36. Those are the four signals coming from the head unit.
But the woofer amp in the stock system puts out at LEAST 100Hz and under. For subs you only want to reproduce like about 120Hz and under anyway. So I think the Bose Amp has a good cut-off point anyway.
As for the extra connectors, I think someone else is looking for other connectors too. So if you can actually find them there are a few other people that want to know.
But the woofer amp in the stock system puts out at LEAST 100Hz and under. For subs you only want to reproduce like about 120Hz and under anyway. So I think the Bose Amp has a good cut-off point anyway.
As for the extra connectors, I think someone else is looking for other connectors too. So if you can actually find them there are a few other people that want to know.
Last edited by Dieseldoug22; 02-24-2008 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Adding more info
#13
8 & 9 and 16 & 17 are the same wires. 16 & 17 are just coming out of the Bose Amp and 8 & 9 are going into the Sub Amp. I believe it already has the signal processing on it but it is not amplified yet so the signal going into the new amp wont be distorted from having too much amplification going into the new amp. If you want an uncrossed-over signal you would have to get the signal from Connector #B41, Term #23, 24, 25, 26 and 33, 34, 35, 36. Those are the four signals coming from the head unit.
But the woofer amp in the stock system puts out at LEAST 100Hz and under. For subs you only want to reproduce like about 120Hz and under anyway. So I think the Bose Amp has a good cut-off point anyway.
As for the extra connectors, I think someone else is looking for other connectors too. So if you can actually find them there are a few other people that want to know.
But the woofer amp in the stock system puts out at LEAST 100Hz and under. For subs you only want to reproduce like about 120Hz and under anyway. So I think the Bose Amp has a good cut-off point anyway.
As for the extra connectors, I think someone else is looking for other connectors too. So if you can actually find them there are a few other people that want to know.
Lee
#14
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Ok question for you audio gurus....
When I had a amp and subs added to my 02 maxima with bose... I had it installed at a shop. The used the Line convertor. When I was listening to it... there was only like 3 songs that had strong bass hits to it....I was like ..what the heck....
So when I got home I messed with the crossover and turned the ****. After that every bass not hit strong....
What do you guys think of this? Why would a shop set it like that?
Thanks guys!
When I had a amp and subs added to my 02 maxima with bose... I had it installed at a shop. The used the Line convertor. When I was listening to it... there was only like 3 songs that had strong bass hits to it....I was like ..what the heck....
So when I got home I messed with the crossover and turned the ****. After that every bass not hit strong....
What do you guys think of this? Why would a shop set it like that?
Thanks guys!
#15
LOL! You might need to find a better installer if he can't find this out! Just in case he is as clueless as you make him out to be, he wants to take the signal BEFORE the amp. Otherwise he will have a processed signal and would have to use a summing/FR flattening device like a Clean Sweep, which would be a total waste of money.
If he asks you questions like the ones you are proposing, I would pack up your ****z and find someone else. Just my .02c
If he asks you questions like the ones you are proposing, I would pack up your ****z and find someone else. Just my .02c
+1 on the wiring harness. would love to hear if anyone figures that one out.