Where to draw the signal from for the sub?
#121
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is there a concensus on where to draw the remote on signal (12v) (when connecting terminals 23-26) or is everyone doing something different?
how about ground? is iasskicker's suggestion the way to go?
how about ground? is iasskicker's suggestion the way to go?
Last edited by snaik69; 05-07-2010 at 09:57 PM.
#122
after reading this thread, seems pretty simple to hook up a sub by splicing or tapping. My question is, since this is for the low's, can't we do this for the highs and splice into somewhere else to connect to an aftermarket amp and replace the ****ty high and mid range speakers?
#123
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if you're using a JL amp, the Bose Amp-On signal is sufficient to turn on the JL amplifier. If you use a different brand of amp, you may need to get switched 12VDC from elsewhere.
for ground, on the right side of the trunk, there's a metal enclosure around some equipment. i unbolted it, ground down the paint, slipped a terminal under the enclosure then bolted through. it's very close to the amp and is a solid conx to ground. closer than the method posted on the previous page.
for ground, on the right side of the trunk, there's a metal enclosure around some equipment. i unbolted it, ground down the paint, slipped a terminal under the enclosure then bolted through. it's very close to the amp and is a solid conx to ground. closer than the method posted on the previous page.
#124
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if you're using a JL amp, the Bose Amp-On signal is sufficient to turn on the JL amplifier. If you use a different brand of amp, you may need to get switched 12VDC from elsewhere.
for ground, on the right side of the trunk, there's a metal enclosure around some equipment. i unbolted it, ground down the paint, slipped a terminal under the enclosure then bolted through. it's very close to the amp and is a solid conx to ground. closer than the method posted on the previous page.
for ground, on the right side of the trunk, there's a metal enclosure around some equipment. i unbolted it, ground down the paint, slipped a terminal under the enclosure then bolted through. it's very close to the amp and is a solid conx to ground. closer than the method posted on the previous page.
is this whole step neccessary though....amp has a signal sensing on/off switch and JL website reads..."Signal-sensing turn-on is activated on the amplifier to eliminate the need to run a remote turn-on lead"
#126
For my amp, I hooked up a PAC-TR4 (look it up on eBay, only $15 or so) to a wire that I tapped from number 20 on the harness. No problems whatsoever, gives me a reliable on and I'm using a Hifonics amp which is really picky.
#128
And if you upgrade in the future, it's good to get the connections right the first time.
Oh and as for finagles ground, my amp is mounted right near the seat so it was less than a foot away. Remember, you want the ground less than 2 feet, the shorter the better. And for wires I highly suggest KnuKonceptz, little more expensive, but they are absolutely wonderful.
Oh and as for finagles ground, my amp is mounted right near the seat so it was less than a foot away. Remember, you want the ground less than 2 feet, the shorter the better. And for wires I highly suggest KnuKonceptz, little more expensive, but they are absolutely wonderful.
#130
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I just ran a remote wire to my fuse box, off the cig lighter or something thats switched. So if the car is ON the amp is on.
So i connected the amp to 23-26 and idk it hits nice but doesnt seem like its hitting as hard as before. I had the box out for a LONG time so idk maybe its just me.
Also right when i start the car i hear a real quick thud from the sub. Anyone else get this?
So i connected the amp to 23-26 and idk it hits nice but doesnt seem like its hitting as hard as before. I had the box out for a LONG time so idk maybe its just me.
Also right when i start the car i hear a real quick thud from the sub. Anyone else get this?
#131
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iTrader: (2)
I just used wire taps and tapped my rcas into 23-26, mkaing sure to match the left, right, positive and negative and I have perfect signal.
And I already told stoof, but I found an awesome grounding spot. If you remove the piece circled here and put your ring terminal under it. There's just two 10mm to remove I think:
And I already told stoof, but I found an awesome grounding spot. If you remove the piece circled here and put your ring terminal under it. There's just two 10mm to remove I think:
lol whatya mean you told me? i told you! haha i crossed out your red circles and drew in the blue one.
#133
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iTrader: (3)
Oh and as for finagles ground, my amp is mounted right near the seat so it was less than a foot away. Remember, you want the ground less than 2 feet, the shorter the better. And for wires I highly suggest KnuKonceptz, little more expensive, but they are absolutely wonderful.
As for you wires, the Cu in those cables is no different than the Cu in cables you can buy at Fry's. I'm an EE.... trust me. Cu is Cu... don't be fooled by higher prices and marketing.
#134
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If the Bose ON signal doesn't work for some guys (like me, although anyone using JL shouldn't have a problem) you can use the pink wire off the Sat Radio box which is the full 12V+ Switched ACC. I'll try and find the wire number from the service manual.
#135
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I just ran a remote wire to my fuse box, off the cig lighter or something thats switched. So if the car is ON the amp is on.
So i connected the amp to 23-26 and idk it hits nice but doesnt seem like its hitting as hard as before. I had the box out for a LONG time so idk maybe its just me.
Also right when i start the car i hear a real quick thud from the sub. Anyone else get this?
So i connected the amp to 23-26 and idk it hits nice but doesnt seem like its hitting as hard as before. I had the box out for a LONG time so idk maybe its just me.
Also right when i start the car i hear a real quick thud from the sub. Anyone else get this?