cullan

One more thing:

23,24,25,26 are the rear head unit outputs

33,34,35,36 are the front head unit outputs

You can use either pair, but you may want to choose based on whether you like to fade front to rear

JLai

Wouldn't it make more sense to take from the B43 "Woofer Amp" using the headunit output "sound signal woofer (+)" and headunit output "sound signal woofer (-)" signals, since I'm just hooking up a subwoofer and nothing else? If I'm not mistaken, connections 23,24,24,26 go to regular speaker connections.

I was almost certain I was supposed to tap into #8 & #9...then use #3 for my remote on. Now I'm confused again...

cullan

Some people have used the woofer out for the sub amp high-level input. I personally think it's a lot better to just use the clean signal from the head unit. The woofer output already has Bose signal processing applied to it.

Here is what is happening...
The low level signal comes from the head unit to the bose amp (Rear 23-26, Front 33-36).
The Bose amp then adds it's processing, amplifies the signal (now it's high level), and powers the woofer through 8 and 9.

By using wires 8 and 9 you will need to use a high to low-level convertor (some amps have this built in). It doesn't make any sense to convert it to low level when you already have it right there.

I think most audio professionals would agree with me on this. Plus, I don't think you really want the additional Bose processing applied to your subwoofer. There might be a high pass filter applied which might take some of the low frequencies away.

JLai

OHHHHHHH...Damn light bulb just went off.

Did not know that B43 was post Bose amp. That's why I was confused. So B41 (Rear 23-26) is pre-amp...that's why its cleaner. Makes sense now. Thanks!

Would increasing the bass setting on the headunit affect the bass level on the aftermarket sub if I were to connect 23-26?

cullan

Yes, 23-26 and 33-36 are pre outs from the head unit. It looks like 8-9 *might* be line level from the diagram, but I just don't know. It could be stepped up or down. And I assume the processing is all done to the signal before it is given to the sub amp.

I am not positive on this, but I believe the bass and treble ***** on the unit do affect the line level outputs. That is how I have mine set up and I believe it does affect the signal when I change the eq settings on the head unit.

There are always additional filters applied by BOSE though. Some sort of equalization and crossovers typically at the amp.

Try experimenting with both methods and use whichever suits your needs better. I was just throwing in my thoughts regarding the line outputs. If you find that 8 and 9 are more suitable then post that here afterwards.

We are actually quite lucky that our setups are the way they are. It's sure nice being able to add a sub so easily. The signal and remote turn on are already in the trunk. Just add power.

Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

I think we discussed this earlier. If memory serves the signal coming from the head unit is a digital signal. Meaning you would need a pricey D-A converter. Most amps won't be able to process the digital signal. And be careful the remote turn on is only 10 volt not 12 volt. May cause problems.

JLai

So are we back to tapping lines 8 & 9?

Here's a more appropriate question...who HAS tapped 23-26 and what amp did you use?

cullan

The signal coming from the head unit is not digital. It is line level analog.

I have tapped 33-36 (Front output) for use with my JL Audio amp and it works great. 23-26 is rear output and will work the same way. 8-9 are output from the first Bose amp to the second Bose "woofer" amp. They *may* work, but *may* have added processing added.

Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

Gotcha. I couldn't remember if it was or not. People have done it both ways. Of course an unmolested signal is always better.

JLai

Just an update:

Got my system in yesterday. I tapped into 23-26 and it works great. The headunit bass setting does affect the bass. As a matter of fact, I prefer it on headunit bass +2 or 3 before boost.

Dieseldoug22

iTrader: (27)

I'm glad it all worked out for you.

jbrady3324

Having a tough time figuring out if you guys are replacing the wires from the HU to the amp? Is this a necessary step?

also, has anyone tried wiring the rear 6x9 woofer for mid-bass?

snaik69

go back and read this thread....you will be tapping into the wires that are coming from the HU to the amp...which would be done at the amp location....under trunk...no need to replace anything...

jbrady3324

Thanks man

redfoster

I used the pink wire off the Satt Radio box which is a true 12V ACC wire. The Bose turn on/remote lines only go to 10V.

Run it down the passenger side, it fits perfectly into the factory harness clips an up into the grommet hole to the battery compartment. Takes only minutes to do.

Take the full range pre-amp signals (see the sticky for the wire harness layout). All the Bose crappy EQing is done at the amp, not the HU. If you want EQing there are plenty of things like the BitOne to tune the sound, but to save a few dollars run the full range signal to the amp and hook up some crossovers. The sound will be night and day versus the existing 'Blose' setup.