Thats complete nonsense. The 4 inputs are only there in case you have a system that doesn't have a dedicated non fading sub output. If you don't then you can either hook up all four channels so that you won't lose any sub on fading front or back or you can just put 2 channels of input (front or rear) and then just have to deal with losing sob out put with fade.

 

I believe the signal post main amp and pre sub amp (rear deck woofers) is not only crossedover al ready, but also eq'd. Hence, the reason why you will most likely gradually lose a sub signal as you turn the volume **** up. I would always suggest tapping prior to any amp, as you have done.

 

I have the B(l)ose system and I haven't seen anyone discuss a way to reduce the muddy sound of the system. Just adding a sub will increase base, but by not removing some from the front speakers simultaneously, it will just be muddy with more bass! Can anyone point me in the direction of a wiring harness that will allow me to tap the signal before the B(l)ose amps, run it into a JL 500/1 amp where I can crossover the sub frequencies, and then go back into the B(l)ose amp? I would like to do this using wiring harnesses to minimize or eliminate cutting...is this possible????

Lee

 

No as I think your JL amp will be sending a speaker level signal back into the Bose amp and thats a no no. There is no harness out.

 

Dillyyo, this is so wierd. When you just hook up 2 RCA's on the basslink, the sub works, but not the resonator, so if you want full bass you need all 4 RCA's. I didn't believe them until I saw for myself. it's night and day difference with 4 rca's compared to just 2.

 

Edit: Innocent till prove guilty... Please address Admin if you have problems with a member...

 

I have not personally worked with this amp, but when looking at the litterature, it does not indicate that. If that is the case, then two Y cables (one for each signal) will give you four outputs. Can you clarify what the "resonator" actually is? Maybe I am missing something here.

 

well, the basslink is a self powered 10 inch subwoofer. It has a 250 rms amp built into the box. The resonator in basically, instead of having a sealed enclosure, one side is the sub, and the back looks like another sub. It looks like the cone of another sub that flexes with the music. I guess it increases bass output from the real sub. I don't really get how it works.

 

Where did you run your power wire at?

Nevermind I found a nice place to run it. It was a pain but it works. Now i need to hook up my amp. Hopefully I get the right wires to draw a signal for my amp

 

Cutting into the stock amp harness, pulling panels, Wow what a pain in the a$$. To tell the truth, i really dont like it now...lol. I should have waited, o well.

 

I didn't cut any wires, i just tapped into them w/ scotchlock taps, and tapped the ones going into the bose amp.. the car's system seems to use a very low preamp voltage, so that's why i used all 4.. fyi, i'm using a basslink II and mine sounds good and has plenty of output

 

im using a line otu converter and it has a right side positive and negative cable and a left side pos n neg cable..... what 4 wires would i have to splice into??

 

for a traditional line out converter, you would tap into the rear right (2) speaker wires and the rear left (2) speaker wires.

 

what wire do i need to splice for me amp turn on wire?

 

back to being confused....so are we taking signal from B41 connector or B43?