SkylineEX-S

Just to chime in on my first audio related post

Did you check the input voltage at the back of the 500/1 amp TomieG?
low/high?

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iTrader: (3)

U cut the 8 & 9 or tapped into it?

snaik69

i thought 8 & 9 carries a processed signal??? im confused

STOOF

iTrader: (2)

The 8&9 does carry a high level signal, Tomie you have to either use a hi/low converter and go to the low input on your amp, or go into the high input if your amp has that.

STOOF

iTrader: (2)

Thanks alot, thats a pretty good price.

Damn so many adjustments on the side of that amp im gonna be all lost again. lol

TTZ2G

There is a LOT of confusion in this thread now that it so long. Lots of good info though.

Anyway we can put this into one DIY or a schematic/how-to?

Haji

Nah there simple. Set the gain as usual, the phase shift leave at 0, adjust the bass eq however you like (not past 12 o'clock!), put the sub sonic on the lowest frequency you want through, the low pass on the highest frequency you want through. I have my sub sonic at about 25Hz and the low pass at around 80 Hz. I get the full ranges of bass played through the subwoofer, while not wasting energy on in audible ranges. And don't worry about the electrical in this car, I'm running the 2010, (2000 watts rms) and have no light dimming issues or anything.

Haji

Let me make it simple for ya, I went through the same thing!
1. Locate the stock amplifier, which is under the plastic near the spare tire to the left side.
2. Tap into wires 23-26 with an RCA (cut one sides plugs off). What I did was is took some extra remote wire, soldered it onto the rca's 4 wires, then tapped that in so I had more slack to work with. I used quick connectors.
3. Tap in to wire 22, its the one right beside the sky blue rear speaker wire, with your remote wiring.
4. Put everything back in place and run the wires through and out on to the carpet.
*Note* If you want a fool proof 12v signal buy this PAC TR-4 (tr4) - Trigger Modules - Sonic Electronix
Connect the remote wire you just ran to the input. The rest go in the amp (ground, power, and the output goes in the remote on slot)
5. Now you need a ground. Pull up the rear seat cushion and look in the left corner for a bracket held down by 2 bolts. Remove both of them and pull the bracket up. Now attach the ring terminal UNDER the metal piece, to the bolt that is closest to the trunk. This gives you a fool proof ground, almost equivalent to a self tapping screw because you are making direct contact with the chassis.
6. Run this wire into the trunk and bam you now have a solid ground lead.
7. Now you need power, All you must do is remove the trim around the battery until the grommet is exposed. Take some scissors and cut a hole to run the power wire through, and feed it into the cabin. Seal this up with silicone.
8. Remove the trim piece inside, everything should pull right out. Theres one plastic bolt you can twist off with your hands to allow you to pull the carpet up, and from there run the wire to the trunk.
9. There hook everything up to the amp and enjoy!

Note due to confusion let me make all this clear:
1. The stock turn on voltage is 10v, thus the pac tr-4 provides a 12v out to power on any amp you want to install.
2. Wires 8&9 are high level and need to either be processed to low level by either a LOC or the amp itself. I would not recommend using these are they are processed signals that have the potential to sound distorted or even clip. Wires 23-26 are low level, and as long as you match up all the wires correctly (Left, right, positive, negative), you will be alright.

I think I've summed up all the possible problems, post back here if you have any problems or PM me!

tfratzke

Thanks so much iasskicker, That cleared everything up for me! Much appreciated!

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iTrader: (3)

there's been a DIY in the "DIY" section for over a year now....only differenc is that the DIY tapped into the 8&9 wires instead of the 23-26 wires

Haji

Oh and you guys can run 2000 watts rms or so, I am with no light dimming/alt strain. Voltage drops to 13.2 at full tilt.

snaik69

thanks iasskicker!

snaik69

i was just at a install shop yesterday to check out their prices (for install) to see if it would be worth my aggrevation to do it myself....and one of the things the guy tried to upsell me on was a line level converter. I told him i dont need one...he insisted.
my setup: JL 250/1 and JL 10w3v3.

is he indeed trying to upsell me?

finagle69

iTrader: (3)

you do not need it. the JL amp has a line level converter (Hi/Low) built in. tell him this.

snaik69

thats what i thought....i did tell the guy this but because im a noob i started doubting myself....thanks much!